FUELER Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 (edited) driving the desert today, BANG suddenly the drivers side suspension is dropped like a lowered Pathfinder and riding on the bumpstop. Still driveable to a point. Torsion bar not connected to anchor in the rear. Nut that holds anchor to crossmember, is loose by an inch but intact with nut on it, and holding anchor loosely. Where does one "crank" (tighten) the torsion bars? At the front or rear? Its dark out now but I want to have an idea what to look for tomorrow. Thanks in advance rear connection of front torsion bar anchor not held in place. Edited February 8, 2010 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismojunky Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 the t bars brother Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 Thanks dude. Yup just checked, the torsion bar is snapped off at the very rear where it mounts to crossbrace!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamzan Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 How the hell does one do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kingman Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Sweet! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 UPDATE sorry, the torsion bar is NOT snapped off. the rear anchor point is loose in the crossmember, but the bolt that holds it in (very long bolt that points up) is still intact, just very loose by inch) but still has nut on top. Is it possible that the rear anchor point might have worked its was loose and caused the t-bar to pop out?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 It's possible. I just prefer to go by Alexrex20's suggestion to not be a FUELER. It's funny to me and it applies to many situations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedPath88 Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Sure it's possible, but not likely without being noticed before if came to this point... it should have lowered gradually over a period of time. So is the T-Bar hanging free or is it still in the adjuster? Check the adjusting bolt's threads, it may be stripped. Also check the splines inside the adjuster and on the T-Bar itself to see if they are stripped or damaged in anyway. Might need to check the front as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 (edited) koveman, im glad you find that funny. Im sorry i have zero knowledge of torsion bar suspension, learning as i go. Plus i need to get this lowrider WD out of my driveway!!! Thanks redpath, i will post pics in a few mins, hopefully they will show what i mean... Edited February 8, 2010 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 updates with pics... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MY1PATH Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 sounds like the reatining clip that keeps the lip anchor foward of the x-member may have <failed, gone, missing, not installed...> allowing the anchor to creep back on the spines over time untill BANG! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 It looks like your retaining clip is still there it just didn't retain the anchor arm where it should be. So the anchor arm slipped of the splines or the front of the torsion bar came out of the front A arm. The torsion bar is a hardened spring steel so it should be ok but the splines on your anchor arm or lower A arm may be screwed up. May need a trip to the scrap yard. James I pulled the section on the torsion bar out of the service manual for you but don't know how to post it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Yeah, it looks like the T-bar just came out of the adjuster. Can't see the inside of the adjuster in the pics to tell if the splines are OK or not. If they are OK, it is actually a simple fix. Undo the bolt pointing up until it is almost completely backed out. slip the adjuster barrel back over the end of the T-bar, then crank the adjuster back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dowser Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Also, A good idea to put a second nut on the bolt to prevent the other nut from loosening up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Yeah, it looks like the T-bar just came out of the adjuster. Can't see the inside of the adjuster in the pics to tell if the splines are OK or not. If they are OK, it is actually a simple fix. Undo the bolt pointing up until it is almost completely backed out. slip the adjuster barrel back over the end of the T-bar, then crank the adjuster back up. X2. As long as the splines aren't screwed on the adjuster, or the t-bar, this should work just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrimGreg Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 We had a Pathy spit a T-bar out of the LCA at our last NOAS run. Had to reinstall and re-set height on the trail. It looked like it had been running on only 1/2" of contact inside the splines so it just over stressed and popped out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 (edited) stripped enough for ya??? Luckily the splines on the torsion bar are still 100% It looks like the torsion bar only goes in like half an inch, is that normal? Edited February 9, 2010 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 No, the engagement was 25-30mm IIRC. Essentially almost all of the spline is in the splined socket. Yeah, I figured it was stripped (key word was 'bang') but didn't want to jinx anything. Do you need pictures of how it should be? Let me know, it's not raining now... Go to a junk yard and get the replacement parts and everything should be fine. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KovemaN Posted February 9, 2010 Share Posted February 9, 2010 Most of the length of the splines on the t-bar should engage the anchor. It was probably installed improperly at some point. I would check the other side as well. You should be able to pick up an anchor from Nissan for around $30 if you don't have a JY near by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 Thanks precise and Koveman. Precise, you don't have to take a pic, i'll use the other side as a reference since it seems to be properly installed. So, to re-install, I loosen the anchor adjusting nut to the max, (so that the anchor is at its most extreme angle) then i slip the anchor over the t-bar and start cranking the nut down? How do i know when to stop cranking? Also, do you know if the anchor with retaining ring installed will slip thru the hole on the crossmember, when not under any tension, or will i have to put the anchor thru the crossmember first and then install retaining ring? Thanks in advance. We ordered the new anchor, waiting til Thursday to install. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesRich Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 You will have to take the clip off of the anchor arm to get it in. First make sure your t-bar is all the way in the lower control arm, if it's not you won't be able to get the anchor on the back end of the t-bar it's a close fit. Put some marine grease (water proof) on the splines then slip the anchor on. Try to index the anchor arm so it splines on with the adjuster nut all the way backed off. This will give you more adjustment. Make sure the anchor arm O.D. grooves sit on the cross member correctly then put the retainer clip on. Jack the front of the truck up until the tires are almost off the ground. This makes it easier to turn the adjuster nut. Then crank it down and lower the truck and check with a tape measure. Repeat until both sides are even. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 Sweet, thanks JamesRich!! One more question - when i'm sliding the anchor arm onto the torsion bar (with nut backed all the way off), should I have the truck lifted off the ground or should i have where the wheels touching the ground at "normal" ride height ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 Off the ground. It's a hell of a lot easier to crank the t-bars with no load on the suspension. It'll take some trial and error to get the level right, and make sure that when you're at proper ride height that the adjuster is tucked up into the crossmember. If it hangs low, it can get ripped off on the trail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 Personally, I prefer to adjust the T-bars with the truck on the ground, that way you dont have to jack it up/drop it all the time and it's not that hard to turn the adjusting nut. I used a 19mm (IIRC) closed end ratcheting wrench so you can leave it on the nut, slide out, check the height, repeat... Make sure to grease the threads of the adjusting bolt and the contact face of the adjuster arm so it doesn't gall and turns easier. If you set it at a different height than it was before, an alignment is recommended. The T-bars will settle so drive it for a couple of days and then re-adjust as appropriate. I believe you have less settling if you don't jack up the vehicle; you never unload the suspension... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FUELER Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 (edited) does it matter whether im cranking the nut on top or the bolt on bottom? (i plan on cranking the bolt with a 19mm socket) with a 19mm wrench holding the nut on top. Sorry for the dumb questions. Edited February 10, 2010 by FUELER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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