FUELER

Go to autozone, lay down your credit card so you can rent an "OBD2 scanner" for free (they give your card back when you return the machine. Go to your car, plug it in under the dash, turn the key to ON and tell us what the scanner tells you.

hello

The premiums already break as it is, why would you want standard??

sirius is about to lauch a 4th satellite, a geostationary one like XM for people that have a reciever in their house so they don't have to reposition it. I live in the bottom left corner of america and i get perfect reception all the time, both in my house and in my car. I've tested XM radio 500 miles into baja california and never lost a signal... imagine having 150+ channels in the middle of nowhere!! Party time! I have yet to try sirius but i'd bet it's the same. I like sirius over XM because they don't have that ClearChannel influence like XM and like FM radio.

or u can just smoke that wacky tobaccy pipe u found and chill out, do the spark plugs later or something :type:

I was wrong, you are correct. You can safely drop octane in higher altitudes. I was all mixed up, I used to chat with some Colorado street racers who talked about it all the time, sorry for the confusion. Taken from the internet: "Higher compression engines need higher octane. Higher altitide reduced air pressure and compression. At higher altitude, most engines can run lower octane. (An exception would be a turbo charged engine.) The only drawback of running higher octane than needed is the car might be harder to start. The drawback of running lower octane is the car might start pinging and pre-detonating. This can cause bad problems in an engine."

You guys must have a different rack than I do. On mine there are two big crossbars to tie stuff to as well as 3 support cross bars to lay stuff down on and not dent the roof. the 2 main cross bars have a big twisting dial that you can loosen to slide them back and forth. Twist this enough and those bars pop off the 3 remaining smaller support bars have knobs that you twist, for the same purpose to slide them back and forth but if you twist it enough, it pops off. After all is said and done, only a small plate (maybe 3/4" x 3/4" with a 10mm hole in it) remains within the channel and it stays in there unless you pull that endcap off....

So your racks freely slide from front to back? How do you lock them in place for carrying something on the roof??

You don't have a twist thing to loosen / slide the racks front and back??

come on guys, you dont have to take any caps off, just unscrew the things and they pop off! i do this all the time! Like DJ dank said, the plates stay in the channels so no worries. If you want to protect them from rust or debris, just put some short 10mm in them.

for an R50 with VG33 do u recommend GL or ATF? What # viscosity?

do those skids need to be pulled when doing oil? PS my bottom radiator support (where the skid bolts to up front) is creased in the middle and slightly bent like a V i wonder if this renders a skid plate impossible to mount?

spat out the exhaust, haha yeah right! Have you ever seen a catalytic converter??

oh, my bad, so they are both VQ35's.

And as far as reliability with that mileage, i have 122k miles and never had a problem.... PS - timing belt interval is 105k on our nissans, has it been done? The 3.5L VQ has more problems, from what i've read.

I like the 01 better because you have a huge cupholder (easily fit the biggest big gulp or even a 40 oz caguyama of mexican beer) instead of that stupid 4x4 lever. I like the electronic 4x4 switch too, so convenient!

which is smoother?

http://www.innerauto.com/browse/year/2001/...abin+Filter+Set $25 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.ph...c1432946k820068 $19.50 + shipping i dont think those are OEM though. I got mine for $30 at a dealership, but i had to do some research and calling b/c most dealerships want $50+

The Nissan owners manual also has a "-" for that bulb. I'd go with Nissan.

Bearing hypoteses can be thrown out - sounds like sychros to me. Noise between gears could be synchros going bad or shifting improperly. It is possible that the sythetic oil is too slippery, causing the synchros and gears to clash when shifting. from http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techtalk/...ne/transoil.htm " Synthetic oil is too slick and thus the Synchros are not allowed to easily help change gears. I have tested this extensively, myself. When I first bought my 89 truck it shifted fine. I promptly changed the transmission oil to synthetic. It began to shift horrible when it was cold - a little better when it warmed up Moral of the story: Don't use synthetic oil in the tranny unless you put an additive in like GM Synchromesh. Supposedly, Redline MTL is good and has additives in it already. I've never tried this stuff, though. "

I can get rear KYB GR2 shocks for $45 each, is that a decent price?

do they make different lengths for R50? how are the shocks in terms of smoothness and ride quality?

how much did you pay for your pro-comps and where?

are rear struts easy to replace on R50?

Thats the relay. You will need to cut off that big plastic tab on top to fit (at least i had to in my R50)