k9sar

it's actually a dual filter relo kit. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38175-gauges-and-filter-relocation-recommendation/?do=findComment&comment=722800

if you don't figure it out, try disassembling again as if you were replacing the head gasket... don't really take crap apart, just get your hands down in there and think through the process of what needs to come out and feel around all the brackets and such for each item you would need to remove. I had a stray bolt once and it turned out to be on the alternator bracket at a funny angle that I couldn't see. Good luck

how many miles???? a @!*%load!

this is why I always have a box of sandwich bags and a sharpie before I start any major job

if you turn the lever to heat and fresh instead of recirc, do you feel any heat flowing while driving at temperature? Perhaps the problem is only with the blower motor or resistor

let's review, for completeness 1. remove plug 1 and put a screwdriver or stick or something in the hole and hand-rotate the crankshaft until it is at the top 2. Pop off your distributer cap and make sure the rotor is near plug 1 and not 180 degrees off (if it is off, rotate engine to next time piston is at top) 3. hand turn your right cam sprocket until the punchmark aligns with the dimple on the back cover... roughly at 1 o-clock or 2 o-clock 4. hand turn your left cam sprocket until the punchmark aligns with the dimple on the back cover... roughly at 10 o-clock or 11-oclock 5. if your new belt has timing marks, position it to lineup the lines with the punchmarks on the sprockets (arrow points in I think, should say on it) 6. slip it on the crankshaft first, then the right sprocket, then inside the tensioner and over the left sprocket, rotating the tensioner as needed. Some people have luck slipping over the tensioner last because it's smaller and smooth. 7. at this point, 3 lines on the belt should lineup with 3 punchmarks on the sprockets (2 cam and 1 crank) 8. double check by counting the number of teeth between the punchmarks on the cam sprockets (check the FSM for the count) and the number from the right cam punchmark to the crank sprocket punchmark. 9. the reason to count the teeth is that aligning the punchmarks to the dimples is not clear due to the angle you look and the idiot who made the marks on the back cover. If you have the choice between having the right number of teeth and the alignment of the lines on the belt to the sprockets -vs- exactly matching the dimples.... screw the dimples. Have fun

Replaced both of my oil filters in the parking lot of the parts store. Bought them, swapped them and walked back in a couple minutes later and asked if they took them for recycle. The guy was dumbfounded, then I showed him my setup.

ummm... yes, it's a 4-stroke V6 if there is any chance that anything moved, I would start from TDC. You don't want to get it back together and find that it runs like crap cause the belt is a tooth off.

best suggestion here is don't break the damned thing while putting it back in. Drilling out that bolt is a PAIN IN THE ASS!

see reply to other thread

teeth on the belt are what get counted. As far as worrying, anytime you remove the belt, you should be concerned. There is most likely load on one of the cams and it may try to rotate on you. My suggestion would be to take the new belt and, if it has alignment lines, figure out the orientation, then put a mark on the cams and crank where the lines are, making sure the right (non-tensioner) side is taunt. If done carefully, this will prevent you from needing to set TDC before installation. Alternatively, remove the covers and rotate the entire system by hand until the marks on the cams align with the dimples on the back cover, check the mark on the crank and try not to move anything when you pull the old belt

I always found it amazing hoe many types of screw you could insert/remove as long as you had the right sized flat-head screwdriver

guess I had it backwards.

thought that was the pozi drive Phillips.

nice

Sorry man, I have no idea. I would pick one system and start tracing it backwards to see where it was losing voltage. Other than that, I'm clueless

fog lights

well... the last thing I need is for one to finally break while my son is driving. Guess I'll have to look once it gets out of the single digits. Laying on the driveway in these temps is not a good idea.

they really aren't needed, are they? so the front end gets a little sloppy.

wait... isn't there a pressure regulator that keeps the pressure at the injectors up where it should be rather than free-flow back into the tank? trying to remember

I have received bad fuel pumps in the past so it's not unheard of. Hope that fixes it

Always fix the first thing first. Sometimes a failing component can directly affect another (most common is... runs like crap due to O2 sensor and triggers knock sensor to throw a code)

a balmy 22 degrees F here in PA. dropping continuously until a roasting 7 on Wed night. Oh yea... and 20+ mph winds

Glad it was an easy fix. As I read your post, all I could think was how nice it was to work on cars back in the early days before computer control and crap like that. Air, Fuel and Fire was all you needed and it didn't even have to be that close to the right timing.

every cold morning when I smell gas, I wonder if/when something like this will happen to me. One of these days I'll have to replace that damned little hose between the fuel rails. Glad (and assuming) you weren't hurt in the incident.