k9sar

Now that I have a main seal leak that I'm not ambitious enough to fix, I pour in whatever is on sale or cheapest since I don't care how long it is effective. I'm constantly refreshing it.

I used repair sleeves on my camshafts. I would recommend it for the crank as well. Gives a nice smooth surface for the new seal but makes it a little more difficult to get the seal on.

watched my son drive away in it. Still kinda freaky that he's driving even though he's had his license for 5 months

Looks good. How's the frame? lol

there will be no CEL due to this. If you are running rich and remove a pre-cat, there is a chance that the exhaust sensor for the emissions testing will detect something (ie. the cat is not efficient enough). I have never failed emissions with my 95

The O2 is typically in the intermediate pipe before the cat

2 cats in a 94? sounds like someone did something unconventional. No need for 2. Just front pipe, Y-pipe, intermediate pipe, cat, muffler and tailpipe. Sometimes the intermediate is replaced with a resonator but as long as you can hookup your O2 sensor, should be fine.

in some cultures...

I see nothing wrong with that frame.

banned for still not getting it even though it was pointed out

I suppose that sometimes it's best just to cut off the offending part and move on.

For the most part, I agree but... due to my work, I have access to more information than the general public. One of the reasons that thwarted plots are not known are that the disclosure of said activity would alert others as to methods and resources that were used and could be used against others. Terrorism is not a single source so we can't lay our cards on the table for all to see. Have you ever played the board game "Clue"? When a guess is debunked, only the person who guessed is provided with the information as to why/how it was debunked. Anyway... just drink the Kool-Aid and be happy not knowing all the dangerous bullsh!t that is going around behind your backs

farted in it on the way to work

I have a cell phone but it's an old nokia brick that I pay $100/year for. I keep it in the truck just in case there is an emergency. Other than that, I don't do cell phones.

why are you whispering?

My position is simple... the greatest source of intelligence information being acquired by foreign interests is through our own media. There is a reason that there are a lot of things being kept secret from the general population. That is why many... MANY plots of homeland terrorism have been thwarted. If the government tells everyone what they know (weapons, locations, plans, etc), then EVERYONE knows. We had a pipe bomber several years ago and each time the news reported on what the police knew I the investigation, the bombers habits changed. Finally, the police told the media false information and trapped the guy. Do I agree with EVERYTHING the government is doing, no, but I value the fact that certain things are kept out of the public knowledge.

bench testing a starter is pretty simple with a set of jumpers and a piece of wire. use the jumper cables to connect the + battery post to the post on the starter (where you attach the big fat wire). Attach the casing of the starter to ground (frame, liftpoint, battery, whatever). Then take a small wire (14g or so) or clip leads and hook one end to the + clamp on the starter so you have 12v on the wire. Stand on the starter cause it will want to spin away and touch the other end of the small wire to the lug on the solenoid. It should come to life. If it's sluggish or does not run at all, your starter most likely needs to be cleaned/rebuilt.

filled the tank with cheap gas

check voltage on your battery posts.... then on the clamps. Sometimes the connection between the clamps and posts gets bad and there isn't enough juice to run the starter. A smack with a hammer or rock (or gracefully remove the clamps, clean the posts and reinstall) may solve the problem. If you are not hearing any 'click' when you turn the key, I would check your starter relay under the hood. You could even pull it and jumper (quickly to test) across it to see if you can throw power to the 'trigger' wire to the starter solenoid. You can also check to see if you are getting 12v at the relay when you turn the key. If you are not getting 12v from the ignition wire at the relay when you turn the key, it could either be your ignition switch or the inhibitor relay. You can bypass the inhibitor by running another wire if you need. I put a writeup in here somewhere on how to do that. Good luck

East coast is a pain in the ass. There are a few places that cater to offroad but, for the most part, if you want to play, you have to take your chances on not getting caught (and try not to run into the bulldozer or other construction equipment). I loved living in southern NM. So much BLM (bureau of Land Management) land out there that you could do almost anything you wanted

The proper answer is... take a set to a machine shop and have them trued and the valves grounded/seated. I forget how much it typically is but when I looked into it, it did not seem outrageous. With a nice set of rebuilt heads, it's fairly easy to do the swap.

at some point, you might consider a set of junkyard heads and stop frucking with the ones that got screwed up. Last resort though.

banned for being easily distracted

Mine is in pieces. Broke most of the bits and eventually the body by hitting it too hard or with too large of a hammer. Of course, by the time I had exceeded my personal ability to loosen stuff, I had also exceeded the capacity of the impact driver. *shrug*

I use all-natural undercoating... and overcoating... and engine coating...