k9sar

and I've lost 2 timing belts, once when the bolt holding the idler sheared off and have never bent a valve. Lucky I suppose.

compression test each cylinder and find if one is bad (ie broken or bent valve). As for the mechanic saying it doesn't need timed, he's full of sh!t. From a distributer perspective, ok, but you can't just shove a belt on and assume everything is aligned the way it should be. Even with a lost cylinder, these engine run fairly well so I'm thinking that you might have a cam that's off a tooth(or more) and that's why it's running rough and making noise. IF it's a valve, you're pulling the head(s) which you have to take the timing belt back off anyway. I would double check all the alignments as you are disassembling and, if you find something out of whack, fix and put back together. You might get lucky. If not and you tear apart again, you have that much more experience doing so. Keep us posted as to what your plans are and we'll help as we can. I've had mine torn down to the block a few times for various reasons and am usually on the forums once a day or so. I'd be glad to help with any info I can.

and, if all else fails, destroy it and post in the parts wanted area for a replacement. I'm hitting the local u-pull-its in the spring if you still need by then.

the hinge screws are not accessible so the only way I can think is to get at the lock somehow. IF it's screwed up anyway, drill the damned thing out or rip it apart and get another form the junkyard.. If it were me, I would get in a pathy with the same glove box and fashion a tool or something that would reach in where I needed to pop the latch. hard to tell how to bend/cut/etc if you can't see the latch. Good luck.

The strips were 4 ot 5 feet long. I never tried to make a single piece to weld. I would use cardboard and cut/tape a template together for areas that I neeeded, then transfer to the steel wiht a sharpie, cut it out and shape it with a hammer if needed, then weld it in place. Then move to the next piece. The frams is approx 3.5# high and 2 inches thick so those are the sizes of steel I like ot have on hand. All 1/8 inch welding steel. In some places, it looks like frankenframe but it is solid and passes inspection.

placing the nut against the head and throwing a weld insode the nut, to the stud is what would be needed. Don't worry about the aluminum head getting screwed up at the threads by the heat, as you ease the stud out (slowly, carefully and with penetrating oil), it will rethread it if needed. You may lose a thread or two but since the stud goes in ove a half inch, there's plenty to grab.

yep, what he said. The 95's have a belt and, if I recall correctly, the one with the rounded teeth. Pull your top cover and see. It's a little work but it will give you your answer. Don't just throw a belt on either. Make sure everything moves freely like it should and look for any cause of the belt breaking (other than just age). example could be siezing a cam which snaps the belt. Anyway, good luck. It's not a HUGE job to replace the timing belt and there are some things you should probably do while you have the front end apart. Also, dig through the foruma (search) and there are most likely suggestions, tips, tricks, etc like how to use a breaker bar with a pipe on it and hit the starter briefly to looses the bolt on the crankshaft.

I weld my frame every year. I buy 1/8 steel from a local welding supply yard and they cut it into 3.5" wide strips for me. I cut to shape with a cheap angle grinder and cutting wheels from harbor freight. Grind away until you have good bare steel then weld away. I can't see your pics but I have welded some pretty tricky and destroyed places. After welding, clean the area good and empty a can of rubberized undercoat on it (inside and out if you can) and everywhere else you have welded before. Looks great, feels strong and passes state inspection.

without a lift, taking the starter out can get a bit tricky but if coues out toward the front of the truck. I actually went in through the wheel-well and took the screws out of the solenoid bracket and removed it to give me more room. Loosen clamps on your AT lines etc and be persistant. You should be able to remove it

My first question would be, "Why would you want to clean them?" Up here in PA, there is so much road salt and crap that my wheels wouldn't look clean even if they were. I would imaging any good degreasing cleanser would work fine. Your brake dust might have a little brake fluid mixed in so something with a light solvent should be fine.

I did a rebuild on one of mine and, due to issues, it did not hold. I simply dropped the change for a rebuilt caliper at advanceauto cause I couldn't wait for one to be shipped. I was dumping brake fluid all over the place 1. My originals were steel, hence the problem wiht my rebuild. There was some rust and pitting on the piston so the chrome was no longer intact and the seal was subsequently bad. Should be no reason you couldn't replace with steel as long as they had a good finish 2. no need to do both sides unless you want to. Mine had been submerged so many times that I got a little water behind the seal and the piston rusted a bit. Only replaced the one that was leaking badly. As long as the other one works, save the money. 3. Make sure you clean the surface where your brake line attaches and use new washers if you disconnect the caliper from your brake lines. That's another place leaks can occur. My 'new' washers were a little big so they did not fit flat on the surface of the caliper so I had to file a little bit but then they worked no problem. Also, pull your guide/slide pins out and grease them well. Over time, if they get water in them, they will sieze and your brakes will wear poorly 4. Unless you are in a situation where you wouldn't be able to fix things as they break/fail (like living in the northern tundra with no garage and only having 1 week a year you can fix things), I would only fix what's broken. 5. you got me there. I'm in PA so I have no idea about you silly canadians

free.

I put 4x6 speakers in mine with only a little modification of the plastic housing that it mounts in. Main thing is not to get too deep into the door because of the glass.

I need to clean mine. The wife reported a burning smell but it's frigging cold and windy out. I'll opt for the alternative until it's warmer... turn the fan off or on full. In both conditions, the resistor does not heat up.

new drivers side door handle and reraised the nap on the door where I rest my elbow. It had gotten nasty over the years. A wire brush to break through the crud, then a drop of Dawn dishsoap and a scrubbrush got it nice and clean.

The problem, I'm told, is that if you get ANY rust going inside the frame, you will have a channel for water to seep in and no way for it to dry out if there is expansion foam in it. Not sure I agree but mine is way too far gone to worry about it.

Snapped off my drivers side door handle. 9 degrees and the door was frozen shut. Gave a tug and 'snap!', off it flew into the snow.

bet that was a bit of a PITA to do. lol. By the time it gets warm enough out to screw around with mine, it doesn't leak.

you can see it and get to the clamps but replacing it involves pulling the fuel rail on at least one side to get the nipples out of the hose.

mine has had a small leak for many years but only when cold. anyone know what the ID and OD of the fuel hose is so I can pick up a piece and swap mine the next time I have the intake off (to replace a collapsed lifter on the drivers side)?

I would have fixed those cams and put on new seals. There is a product that is a thin sleeve that fits over the cam ends and effectively removes those grooves left by the cam seals. Did mine when I had it apart. no leaks at all.

sounds like a mismatch between the system and the remote. perhaps one or both of them are not OEM. Just a thought. Wish I had remote-start on my 95. It's frigging cold.

if it pops again, then look for the source. Otherwise, consider it an easy fix and move on.

used it to pull 2 cars out of the ditch on the way to work today. Idiots need to learn how to drive in the snow/ice. Anyway, I think I may have destroyed another CV joint. FWD went away and now is just a strangly familiar 'popping' noise. Last time I heard it was on an ofroad trip trying to crawl out of a mudhole over a fallen tree. Gonna have to wait until spring on this one.

I don't know if there is a 'year' code on the block but the model (ie VG30...) is on the right side rear of the lower block. The serial number is on the passenger side behind the head.