k9sar

have you checked for 12V on the battery cables instead of the battery posts? Had a situation where there was a bad connection to the batt clamp on the + side and, even thought the battery read fine, there was no power to start. Usually, this is bad connection when clamping in the battery. Battery post will read 12V and clamps will not. Also check while running if posts read 14V+. if so, alternator is putting out fine. The next thing I would do is see if the failure is immediate (after a full charge and checked for 12V) or if it is after some time (check battery voltage before trying to start after sitting to see if 12V or if it has drained).

crawl under and look for the drain tube... take it in your lips and suck hard. If that doesn't work, try blowing hard. If still nothing, run a wire up it to release the blockage. No matter how you open it, you will need to open the blower chamber behind the glove box and clean out the crap or it will clog again.

drain tube is clogged.

got mine for $35 at harbor freight. never had issues reading or clearing codes

I had a cruise control cable hang-up on me while coming down a mountain in New Mexico after a ski trip. Even if I turned cruise off, the throttle was still being held open. THAT was a lot of fun. Ended up killing the engine and manhandling the Isuzu to a stop on the side of the road without power brakes or steering.

parked it next to a 94 that I'm going to start swapping out some parts. The owner is looking to sell it for parts or scrap it and has told me that I can have anything I want from it as long as I replace it with mine. First up, the nice clear headlights since mine have been underwater many times and are full of rust.

I think there should be a skin that makes your pathy look like it's all torn up and rusty. Might deter theft.

or improvise.... do yu have an old lawn mower laying around? Anything relatively sturdy that has wheels should work, especially if it's a rear wheel where there isn't as much weight.

is it just a single wheel that won't turn? You might be able to 'rent' a wheel dollie from a parts store or garage. Of course, you can get a pair from harbor freight for 50 bucks or so.

Maybe it was not beat to death but just turned in as a gas guzzler and had the engine siezed on purpose

We don't associate with THAT side of the state. The gene pool needs a little chlorine out there.

For my hole under the rear seat, I simply dumped almost a full tube of silicone adhesive around it and stuck on a sheet of aluminum flashing that was cut to size. Per PA inspection, there can't be a hole... they never say anything about being pretty. As long as the parts that support the hinges and latch are strong, the rest of the area is just sheet metal. If the slide pins on your calipers are siezed (mine were), it's a fairly easy replacement. Advance auto for something like $55 each and they come with the bracket and bolts. There's a 30 or 35 core but you will get that back. Make sure you either file down the area where the brake lines attach so it's smooth or use your old copper washers cause the new ones they send are a little too big and it's tough to keep them from leaking without cranking the crap out of the bolt. IF you have frame rot, get a nice ling piece of 1/8 plate steel from a welding supply company and have it cut to 3 1/2 inch wide. That's a good start for the mojority of the frame components. Also grab a length of 1 inch angle welding steel from home depot or similar to work on those areas where extra reinforcement is needed. After any welding, clean it up well with a wire brush and hit it with a coat of rubberized undercoating (few dollars from advanceauto). Keep us updated. I have some spare engine parts and I think a couple of rotors laying around and I'm only a couple hours away. I think I'm heading to Hershey within the next couple weeks as well.

put it up on stands and try rotating the wheels by hand. If they don't move, pull the wheels and see if for some reason the brakes are holding them. Yes, the rotors will clean themselves but they have to be rotating to do so. If it were parked with the parking brake on and the cable rusted, that could also be holding you in place.

Holy Trifecta Batman!

That's what a welder is for... screw the threads

ew

I think you want the kind of jeep coils that don't have the vine. Might be able to use them with a modification but you may have to go out and buy one of those special vegitation removal kits from your local parts store.

yea, you might want to wipe that oil off your solenoid. Other than that, I'd say you're good to go.

no prob. good luck with the recovery

plus, with the plugs out, after cranking until no water is gushing out, use a length of tubing or something and put a tablespoon or so of oil in each wet cylinder. Then crank a couple times to smear it around. This will help prevent rust if you are out of comission for more than a couple days. Once the plugs are back in and she's running, any residual water/mud/oil will blow out through the exhaust. The most important thing is to not crank with a full cylinder.

yes

My wife feels that I keep my pathy in a condition such that nobody would want to steal it

mine does not have a pre-cat anymore.

2 devices? like the O2 sensor and somehting else? Not sure what devices you speak of.

My solution was simple. It's behind me so I don't see it. one side is still grey and the other side is bare plastic.