k9sar

pacesetters on mine. cooked the paint off the first time I drove it. Had to do some other work a couple weeks later so I sprayed them with a high-temp paint and they still look ok. No longer shiny, but ok just the same.

oops... forgot to update my profile

got almost 3" with mine

95 pathy SEV6 Before I dig through the FSM and do troubleshooting, thought I'd check with the masses and see if anyone has the easy/quick answer. The ABS idiot light on my instrument panel is on. My fluid was a little low but not below the minimum level on the reservoir. I topped off the brake fluid but the ABS light is still on. Anyone else have this happen and what was the cause? Just trying to save myself some diagnostic time cause I'm old and lazy.

Banned for typing too much

banned for misspelling cliché

you would think that someone running from the police would actually run after the accident, not stroll over to them as if nothing happened

I stopped trying and just strapped mine together with long zip-ties

I had the exact same rust pattern. Fairly easy to grind some clean surface, piece some steel in there and weld it.

exactly why I bought a cheap MIG welder from harborFreight. I pickup some 1/8 inch weld steel from a local fab shop and patch areas as needed. After welding I alays super-coat the area and anywhere else with a can of rubberized underoating.

that will never die! LOL

seriously. Obviously propped up on the rims by someone who doesn't know how strong the nerf bars are. No way in hell I'd crawl under there

mine is getting a popping sound on tight turns and my 4wd is not grabbing well (checked while in snow and only the DS spun to get traction). I suspect I've blown a CV joint but it will have to wait till it's warmer before I start tearing mine apart

I had to rebuild the connector for my MAF. Made it so the wire came off at 90 degrees rather than up since my harness wire was actually hitting the hood and I think that is what caused the bad connection over time

that should buff out

I always smear a little silicone on all my gaskets just to account for any irregularities in the mating surfaces. Be careful with a thermostat though. You don't want excess goop to break loose and clog the bleed hole in the thermostat

I put the cheap sh!t in. Mine leaks enough that I need quantity rather than quality. On a positive note, it's never in there long enough to breakdown so the longevity of the oil is not an issue.

Thanks!

Banned for reviving it!

what else do they have? I'm only a few hours away.

Thanks B, I was too lazy to find the threads

Still wondering about the deal you got. Have you checked for blood splatter? lol.

Thanks for starting this... My windows have a death-rattle when they are partway down and I always wondered if there was a way to resolve that other than adjusting the radio volume

For the clunk, the first thing I would check is the exhaust hangers. If one is broken or the rubber torn, that will allow enough twist to possibly let your tailpipe tap the body or frame when you hit bumps. Always check the easiest things first. If all looks good with the hangers, check to make sure the tire carrier latches nice and snug. THEN I would start looking at suspension.

Cheapest way is to crank the T-bars and do a poor-man's rear lift by replacing the springs with those off an 8-cyl jeep grand Cherokee. There's a thread in here somewhere for the spring/lift options. Worth a read. I got almost 3 inches of lift on my 95SE that way but had to reindex my T-bars to get the twist I wanted