k9sar

what else do they have? I'm only a few hours away.

Thanks B, I was too lazy to find the threads

Still wondering about the deal you got. Have you checked for blood splatter? lol.

Thanks for starting this... My windows have a death-rattle when they are partway down and I always wondered if there was a way to resolve that other than adjusting the radio volume

For the clunk, the first thing I would check is the exhaust hangers. If one is broken or the rubber torn, that will allow enough twist to possibly let your tailpipe tap the body or frame when you hit bumps. Always check the easiest things first. If all looks good with the hangers, check to make sure the tire carrier latches nice and snug. THEN I would start looking at suspension.

Cheapest way is to crank the T-bars and do a poor-man's rear lift by replacing the springs with those off an 8-cyl jeep grand Cherokee. There's a thread in here somewhere for the spring/lift options. Worth a read. I got almost 3 inches of lift on my 95SE that way but had to reindex my T-bars to get the twist I wanted

Glad to hear the pathy is on the road to recovery. Checks can be mailed to.... just kidding

pissed on it... just because

yea, I looked at a 2015.... not impressed. Sure, it has gadgets but it's destined to be a garage-kept mall-crawler

yea, with the belt, you have to hold the sprocket in position as you slip the belt on. Using a ratchet can get frustrating cause you move it to position and then it slips 'over the hump' and forward. Using a simple box-wrench or a socket on a breaker bar gives you much more control over rotation.

So I know the WD21 up through 95 was a separate body/frame design and in 96, with the R50, they went to a frameless design. Did any of the later years go back to using a frame? I was at a local dealership looking at one of the new pathys and the salesman was telling me that they just switched to the unibody construction. I was gonna call BS but I just smiled and acted like I didn't know anything about cars at all (just testing to see how honest the salesman was and if I wanted to deal with him further)

If your problem is actually getting TDC, you will need to throw a wrench on the crankshaft bolt to turn it (disconnect the coil first... don't want to accidentally start it)

throw a wrench on the bolt holding the cam sprocket. Due to the springs on the valves and rockers, the cam sometimes doesn't want to stay where you need it. Count the teeth and put a couple of lines on your belt with chalk or a paint marker, slip it on one of the cams with a line on the cam mark, then turn the other cam to get it's mark lined up with your other line (making sure there are the appropriate number of teeth between the marks. Then slip the belt onto the crank sprocket, again making sure the correct number of belt teeth are between the alignment marks. Lastly, it's loosen the tensioner and work the belt onto that. Oh yea, and do this all with the engine set at TDC

yep. I have a leak and when the level gets down a bit, my bad lifter starts to make a helluva racket

added more oil so my bad lifter would shut-up.

If the housing and stuff is still good... like, you didn't explode it, you can probably get a tranny shop to rebuild it for you for a couple grand. They will usually warrant the job and it'd be more reliable than trusting a junkyard tranny that you have no idea if the previous owner had driven 90% of the time in first or reverse. The guts typically run a few hundred dollars but the labor runs the price up. I've rebuilt one before and decided that I'd rather pay someone else to do it. Good luck. Don't forget to post what you find... as well as any pics of the problem. That can help others who come to the forums looking for advice

Watched a crack creep slowly across the top of my windshield

so where does one order replacement rods from (other than a dealership)?

There are electrical things attached to the engine that do not have their own body ground, thus there are several places where the engine and things attached to it are grounded to the body.

looks like a ground wire to me. probably runs to the exhaust system

Sorry but I don't understand your question. How many pieces do you have loose? Looking at your pictures above, you have a pully (outermost) with bolts in it and you have a bigger pully w/ a keyed slot. There is really no way to get the assembly wrong. The rotational orientation of the small pulley on the big pulley makes no difference.

did a graceful 360 on the way home from work last night. Hit a patch of black ice but nailed the landing. Then followed it by a look around to see if anyone was watching so I knew whether to put on my "I meant to do that" face or not.

for a rough timing just to get somewhere for service, start it and turn the disty back and forth until it sounds like it is running well. Wouldn't go for days like that but it'll get you to a shop or buddy's house

and what do you mean about a bad tank of gas? Just something different that it didn't like to run on or actually bad fuel or debris in the tank which can happen if you fillup just as the underground tanks are being filled which would stir-up any sediment that may be in those tanks and cause issues with 'yuk' being pumped