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k9sar

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Everything posted by k9sar

  1. First, it is completely possible that the battery is bad. It can happen. It should be taken to a shop or parts store and bench tested. Another way to see if there is a bad cell is to make sure it is at full charge, throw a voltmeter on it and see what the voltage is on draw down while starting. It should not be below 10v while cranking. Make sure you are testing terminal to terminal, not on the clamps. This is the only true way to read the battery. If the voltage drops below 10V, the battery is low in charge (which is why you should start with a full charge, low in water (though most batteries nowadays are maintenance-free and you should not have to add water, or your internal resistance is too high (bad cell, needs to be replaced) Then, connect your voltmeter from clamp to clamp and check the voltage again during start. Your reading should be within .1V as the prior test. If not, you should pull the clamps, clean the terminals and reinstall, then repeat the test. Third, connect the meter to the positive cable at the starter and to case ground and repeat the test. You should not have a variance of more than a half volt. IF you do, you probably have a bad cable or something else in the flow that is causing resistance (bad relay, whatever) As for the alternator, 13.8 is the bare minimum you would expect to see while running. It should be more like 14+. You can test the alternator by connecting your meter to the battery posts, start the car and let idle. Turn on the high-beam headlights and check your voltage. It should be between 13.8 and 14.5. Then, if you increase your revs to 1500rpm, you should be reading between 14.2 and 14.6. If not, the alternator may have bad diodes. Then turn off the headlights and check the voltage again (still at 1500rpm). If your voltage exceeds 14.8, you probably have a bad voltage regulator in your alternator. Also, you mention that "the starter, alternator and battery are all new"... Do you trust that your 'shop' used a new starter and not just one that was returned, possibly defective? Starters can also be bench tested but they are a pain in the ass to remove. The alternator is a rebuild and, based on the voltage output, I would suspect that is a problem. Hope any of this helps
  2. I have a spare but shipping to CA wouldn't be cost effective.
  3. mine hasn't looked that clean since... well... maybe when I bought it
  4. I used either coleman fuel (naphthalene) or even oven cleaner (the good stuff with lye). Cleans them right up. Here's an example when I rebuilt a dodge 3.8l engine...
  5. yes, they can be taken apart and cleaned. I put an appropriate sized socket (open end) over the end of the lifter and slammed it on the ground until the guts fell out. Worked like a charm to get them apart. reassembly is easy. As for putting them back in? dunno, never went there.
  6. My guess would be bad contact between the battery posts and battery cable(s) but let's hope the OP chimes in with what he found
  7. Hi Tom. What part of PA do you hail from? There are a few members around here who may be in a position to lend a hand if needed.
  8. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1995,pathfinder,3.0l+v6,1211993,body,lift+support,1404 glass left and right, not trunk.
  9. Glad to help. That's why you came here. Pull up a chair and stick around. Lots of good advice and information in these pages.
  10. open it, clean it and put it back together. then fix your leaky oil pressure sensor.
  11. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/2440-no-headlights-or-foglights/?do=findComment&comment=18855
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