k9sar

head blown

heart beating

broken heart

The last one I started in 2009 and it is still going (which amazes me). Here's another. Rules: For this game there are two words...player changes one and can be in any order. Example: "hidden treasure" the next player could change it to: "treasure chest" or maybe "hidden clue" Let's start with: Dinner Theater

I assume you checked for spark while it was cranking and not starting. I've had a coil go bad before and it was intermittent. Also, is it only on a restart or does the engine die once it's running? I've had intermittent failing fuel pumps as well. Have someone crank it while you have your head under the hood and listen for an arc click. High resistance in the cable from the coil to the distributer could be causing it to arc to ground depending on whether conditions and such and could also cause intermittent failure. Just some thoughts of things easy to check that I have seen before. Good luck and keep looking. don't forget to post once you have found a solution. There may be others in the same boat in the future that could benefit from the work you are currently doing. Pretty much how we all got here.

ummm... since when is tire pressure monitored in the 95's? The ABS light comes on for low fluid or a malfunction in the rear antilock braking system. FSM has information on testing. Mine came on and, since I never cared about antilock brakes, I simply snipped the wire that goes from the control unit under the seat to the light in the dashboard. That way my mechanic can't say @!*% when he inspects it cause there's no indicator light

there should be 2 led's facing the rear seat, one red and one green... unless your ECU is different than mine. I've never looked at the 'model' and just assumed all of the 94/95's were the same

would love to see someone adapt a set of these and a small air tank on a motorcycle

Holy Crap! that mount of mine is almost 10 years old (and still works by the way). Yep, you guessed it... Same cell phone

I have one in SE PA. Shipping would be a killer though. If you happen to be heading towards Philly for any reason, let me know and we can see if we can make a deal.

my tranny just started slipping a little so I know I'll be needing to do a tranny job within the next year. Too bad you aren't closer.

welded the heat shield back on my cat convertor to get rid of the rattle. Tightened my alternator belt to get rid of the startup squeal. Sprayed lubricant all over every moving part of my front suspension trying to find out where the squeaking is coming from (sounds like an old tractor suspension bouncing through the field). No luck. Still squeaks on every bump.

I've taken mine out without removing the radiator... though I did remove skin from my knuckles at the same time.

yep. could be a leak in the radiator or where the AT lines connect to the radiator. Most people would get an external cooler and run the lines to it and cap the ones on the radiator (run a tune from one nipple to the other to close the loop). That would probably take care of the problem. First though, I would crawl under and wipe down the entire area where the AT lines are coming into the radiator and wipe the bottom of the radiator too. Then, drive a bit and get back under and look for fluid.

I have a 95 so I'm not sure if the 96 has an individual coil, multiple or built-in. Anyone? anyone? but "The most common cause that will trigger the P1320 code is the ignition coils, one or more ignition coils may have failed. Even tough the coils may be working OK, the resistance for one or more of the coils is greater or smaller that what the Engine Control Module (ECM) is expecting. Measuring the resistance with the coil out of the vehicle may not show any failures, usually the coil fails under heavy conditions (hard acceleration) or certain temperatures. The P1320 code means that there is problem with the "Ignition Coil" or the wire to the ignition coil. For some models without individual ignition coils the Ignition Coil is inside the distributor and the distributor need to be replaced to fix the problem."

and a side note... if a code tells you the knock sensor is bad and it's not the first one on the list and it's running rough, you probably don't need to replace it. USUALLY (enter disclaimer here) the code for the knock sensor is thrown due to some other issue making it run like crap. Always fix the first things first. Do you remember what the codes actually were? Don't recall seeing one that says to replace the distributor.

my first thing would be to check that the replacement of the distributer did not put it way out of timing. Pull the cap, pull the plug in cyl 1, use a long screwdriver or rod to determine when the cylinder is at TDC, look at the rotor to see if it is even close to the #1 firing position, check the timing marks to see if they are in the right vicinity of where they should be. Beyond that, you claim the plugs and wires are good. Not sure how you checked them (looking for spark at the plug itself when cranking or just visually inspecting and checking resistance on the wires). Engines need 3 things... air, fire, and fuel and that they all be at the right time. Air is easy, fire can be checked by putting a loose plug in the end of the plug wire and holding it against the block while cranking to see if it sparks brightly (good plug and wire) or weak (bad plug or too high resistance in wire), fuel you can usually tell by smell if the spark plug is out or check the pressure on the rail. Then look at timing and, since you played with the distributer, I think that may be the source.

There are things under the truck that could get screwed up in deep mud or dirt. Check to see that all plugs on the tranny and wherever are intact and the wires are not broken.

My friend had an old VW that made a terrible rattling noise at low speed. He eventually discovered that I filled his hub-caps with gravel. Anyway, if you have a friend whom you trust to drive, you could walk along side while it is making the noise and try to isolate it to wheel or suspension

perhaps a cv joint? does it change depending on how hard you are turning?

Got tired of the ABS light being lit on my instrument panel. Ran a diagnostic and found there is an open circuit in the sensor so I removed the front seat, accessed the control unit and snipped the #2 wire which goes from the control unit to the dash. No more light. Easy fix.

added a few more plates of steel to my frankenframe

My frame has transformed into a series of patches and welds. There are a few places where you can still see original frame but not much

more pop-rivets, screen and bondo to rebuild the bottom of the rear panel. Things that I had stored in three were falling out.

no codes? Your CEL is on.