k9sar

or gremlins

Take the 104 to 2 and head to Moncton. Turn left and head southwest on 1 until you hit Maine. Continue on 9 until you hit 95 south. Take that to Philadelphia area an pick up 276 West. Go to exit 326 and post when you get there. I'll grab a wrench, pop out of my office and change it for you. See ya in about 15 hours.

there are threads on here about fixing the inst cluster. sometimes you just have to dive in and have at it. The inst cluster is labor but little to no parts expense so if it doesn't work, all your out is time

the water pump does not have the fan clutch, just a disc to mount the pulley and fan on. No need to replace the water pump and timing unless you really need to. The replacement of the fan clutch is minimally invasive and to get to the water pump etc is MUCH more work

no need to remove the radiator, just the shroud. Unclip the lower part of the shroud, take out the 4 screws or so holding it to the radiator and remove the shroud. Then take the fan out by removing the 4(?) screws holding it to the water pump pully. That will get you the fan and clutch so you can replace it (a few screws onto the blade assembly)

23 = idle switch 45 = injector leak 12 = MAF Check the connector on the top of your MAF. Mine was bad and the stupid thing would make the truck run rough when the hood 'wiggles' and the cable was touching it. Open your hood, start the truck and let it idle (hopefully it runs fine at this point), then grab the wire running to the top of the MAF and give it a bit of movement. If it changes the behavior of the engine, you have a bad connection. I had a broken wire and had to rebuild the connector (at a 90 degree so it didn't hit the hood). Might just need the pins cleaned for a better connection.

my 95 does that occasionally. I always attributed it to a bad speed sensor but I hear that it is probably an issue with instrument cluster.

only if it goes through to the interior from underneath... something silly like exhaust gasses filling the cabin

yea, the part by the bumper rotted completely off and all the stuff in my hiding-place fell out the bottom. Other spot was just eating through. Pop-rivet some window screen and a layer of bondo and she's good enough to pass inspection. Better sanding and a quick layer of paint to come later.

let my 14 year old do some welding on it

I never use my parking brake but am thinking about the mechanism to see if I can come up with anything for you. Hope someone also chimes in with assistance. Good luck.

Mine initially stopped working because of friction in that stupid slot that the belt runs through before coming across your shoulder. If I pulled the belt only from the retract mechanism, it would retract just fine. Solved the problem with some 2000 grit sandpaper running through the belt slot to remove the years of yuk that was built-up

Welcome. I agree with the prior posts about where to look (so to speak) for the smells. Any violation in the floors could allow water in and mildew to grow. Key places are under the DS and PS carpet and under both rear seats if you flip them up. Check after driving on a rainy day and see if any are damp. Water can seep through rust areas even if they look and feel reasonably solid. Once you get everything cleaned to your satisfaction, you might throw a couple dryer sheets under the rear seats to combat the stink. You could also lay strips of bacon on top of your catalytic convertor. bacon ALWAYS helps.

The ones I would first do are to grab a volt meter and check the following: 1. DCV from post to post when vehicle off (should be around 12V) 2. DCV from post clamp to post clamp when vehicle off (should read same as test 1. If not, pull, clean and replace clamps on posts) 3. DCV from post to post with vehicle running (should be around 14V) 4. DCV from post clamp to post clamp when running (should be same as 3 if not, pull, clean and replace clamps on posts) 5. DCV from post to post while trying to start (I believe it drops to 11ish volts on load) 6. DCV from post clamp to post clamp while trying to start. If this drops to near 0 and test 5 does not, you definitely have bad connections After that, take a look at the fuseable links and even feel them after running for a bit. They should NOT be hot. excessive heat here indicates a short Good luck with your troubleshooting and please take the time to followup in this thread with your findings/solution so that others may benefit.

are you sure the battery is good and will accept/hold a charge? Have you checked to make sure your terminal connections are good (jumping will work since you typically place the jumpers on the terminal clamps and not the terminal posts themselves (check voltage on the posts, then check voltage on the clamps) Before looking for the difficult, check the obvious. As for the alarm, I suppose it is possible to have a short but I have had many more occurrences of bad clamps than other electrical issues.

More frame welding. Had to break into my angle iron for some areas that were too bad to patch. On a side note, molten metal dropping into your shoe doesn't hurt as much as you would think. Fortunately, the foam insole melted and the hot metal dropped away from my heel before too much damage was done. 2 small burns on my heel (mainly just black spots), a couple holes burned through my sock and 2 holes in the insole of my shoe that look like something burrowed down there.

The shocks, unlike normal ones, have an electrical connection. That may be a dead giveaway. If you look in the cabin by the handbrake, there would also be a comfort/sport switch. My 95SE has/had the setup and I was so impressed by it that, when my shocks needed to be replaced, I threw away the 'adjustable' ones and put a set of Monroe's in.

drove it to my son's place of business in order to put pressure-triggered fireworks under his tires. He closes the restaurant at 2am and I'm sure he's groggy when heading to the car. Though it would be good to wake him up

the tick on acceleration may be due to your timing being a little off. pre-ignition can cause a similar noise and changes with vacuum advance during accelleration

initial ticking that goes away once you get good oil pressure is a collapsed lifter. Usually goes away within 15 seconds or so of starting the truck. Ticking that goes away once warm is either a bad lifter (clogged or restricted) that solves once the oil is more viscous. The pathy should be on 5W-30 but 10W-40 is probably fine too. Ticking at the manifold could be a bad gasket, loose/broken stud, or a cracked manifold. One good way to chase it down is to use a length of tubing (1/2 inch by a few feet), stick one end in your ear and probe around with the other end to see exactly where the exhaust tick is coming from. You may also be able to see carbon buildup at the point of the leak. a loud tick from inside the valve cover that does not go away or cycles in and out (but never goes away) is a bad lifter. I have one in my drivers side (hard to get into) head and fix it with the radio volume knob. I'm sure it's not good for the rockers or cams but I've had more important things to fix.

used it to brace the back of the wife's van while I did an oil change. I had loaned my wheel chocks to a friend.

but we are getting away from the main topic...... Clean your blower box and resistor!

or a slice of bacon

reverse takes a higher tranny oil pressure than other gears. The first time mine went, it was the pump failing. Second time, the internal gear pack ate itself and shed small chunks of metal all throughout the tranny. 230000 miles and on my 3rd transmission