k9sar

why are you whispering?

bench testing a starter is pretty simple with a set of jumpers and a piece of wire. use the jumper cables to connect the + battery post to the post on the starter (where you attach the big fat wire). Attach the casing of the starter to ground (frame, liftpoint, battery, whatever). Then take a small wire (14g or so) or clip leads and hook one end to the + clamp on the starter so you have 12v on the wire. Stand on the starter cause it will want to spin away and touch the other end of the small wire to the lug on the solenoid. It should come to life. If it's sluggish or does not run at all, your starter most likely needs to be cleaned/rebuilt.

filled the tank with cheap gas

check voltage on your battery posts.... then on the clamps. Sometimes the connection between the clamps and posts gets bad and there isn't enough juice to run the starter. A smack with a hammer or rock (or gracefully remove the clamps, clean the posts and reinstall) may solve the problem. If you are not hearing any 'click' when you turn the key, I would check your starter relay under the hood. You could even pull it and jumper (quickly to test) across it to see if you can throw power to the 'trigger' wire to the starter solenoid. You can also check to see if you are getting 12v at the relay when you turn the key. If you are not getting 12v from the ignition wire at the relay when you turn the key, it could either be your ignition switch or the inhibitor relay. You can bypass the inhibitor by running another wire if you need. I put a writeup in here somewhere on how to do that. Good luck

East coast is a pain in the ass. There are a few places that cater to offroad but, for the most part, if you want to play, you have to take your chances on not getting caught (and try not to run into the bulldozer or other construction equipment). I loved living in southern NM. So much BLM (bureau of Land Management) land out there that you could do almost anything you wanted

The proper answer is... take a set to a machine shop and have them trued and the valves grounded/seated. I forget how much it typically is but when I looked into it, it did not seem outrageous. With a nice set of rebuilt heads, it's fairly easy to do the swap.

at some point, you might consider a set of junkyard heads and stop frucking with the ones that got screwed up. Last resort though.

I use all-natural undercoating... and overcoating... and engine coating...

also, with the hood open and engine running, wiggle the connector and/or wire on top of the MAF. That is a known weak area that can cause crappy running. Hint, wiggling the connection should NOT have an effect on the engine running.

and how the hell does Autozone Diagnostics come up with replacing the O2 sensor on a 95? I doubt they have the ability to read any codes from a pre-2000 vehicle. Stalling could be a number of things... dirty MAF, IACV, disty cap, ... More diagnostics would help... First of all, is the check engine light coming on? Is it stalling on hard deceleration only or on acceleration only? Any repeatable characteristics would be helpful in narrowing down the problem. Sorry you are still having problems with it.

sorry, the detour got veto'd. I have a few other college visits to schedule so perhaps at a future time. I'll send you a message if I'm out that way again and see if you still have the parts I'm interested in. Heading to Elizabethtown and York on Friday but might have a trip to Fredrick fairly soon.

I would say that you have a bunch of parts missing

Mine took quite a bit of PB Blaster and driving to/from work. A few days of that then a wrench with a pipe slipped over the end for leverage broke it loose.

We'll be here. Good luck.

if smacking the starter made a difference, your commutator is probably full of carbon dust from the brushes and had found a dead-spot. I would definitely pull the starter, disassemble it, clean all the crap out of it and put it back (after testing it of course).

lol. yea, I've taken out a windshield on a Mercedes with a foul ball before. The extra dent in the pathy just adds character.

parked too close to the ball field and added another dent in the hood

Another thing you should always have with you.... a red flag and piece of rope. You never know when you will need to haul something longer than your pathy and have it stick out the back past the tire carrier. Yea, there's the roof but the rack claims a limit of 80lbs and those Mammoth Tusks are a bit heavier than that

If you can't find the strap for the seat bottom, dig around in there, past the metal 'wire' that is designed to hold the strap where it is accessible, and grab the mechanism below it. If all else fails, unbolt the front of the seat and lift it up until you can see what we are talking about.

funny, when I look on ebay for G57NTX318, that's all I get as results.

don't know the wiring specifics for the R50's but it sounds like you have something crossed

KG is an identifier. I have not run across them before so I don't know the specs. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18-rear-spring-options-for-lifting-your-wd21-pathy/?hl=spring

second that. I caught a sale on advance auto for 15% off plus a $25 coupon off my next $50 purchase. Replaced both of mine in 2 stages to take advantage of the coupon. Another thing to consider... this was not on a pathy but might be worth a look. My father had a brake issue with his dodge where the brakes would not release and things got hot and such. Turns out that the clamp that was holding his rubber brake hose had started to rust and, as it did, constricted the brake line to the point where it would allow fluid to flow if he put on the brake but it was a strong enough crimp to prevent the pistons from releasing.

lemme think. I'm out at Shippensburg next Monday and might convince the wife that I should take the southern route back east (lol) instead of the turnpike.