k9sar

That doesn't sound right. You should be able to grab it without problem, especially if you are adjusting the timing. Check that your cables are not too high in resistance (which could cause you to ground it on that particular fire). Also, isn't there a plug or two attached to the disty near the base? I think one of them is a ground. Make sure everything is attached as it should be.

can also try this (though I'm not sure how long they will host). I uploaded them this morning. (and B, these are the same ones I mailed to you on CD a few years back) https://www.dropbox.com/s/04aduiq64e3z543/94_Suppliment.zip https://www.dropbox.com/s/gnnzt4oyy8ddztd/1995SupplementFSM.zip https://www.dropbox.com/s/bhl5i9109svdgyy/Wiring.zip

sounds like mine with a collapsed lifter in the drivers-side head. Definately get a stethescope and check it... alternatively, and this is a cheaters way, use a brazing rod held against the bottom of a plastic cup. put yout ear to the open end of the cup and touch the brazing rod to the valve cover, disty cover, etc to tell where the clicking is.

Mine stays lit on sport but then again, I replaced my shocks awhile back so the connectors don't really go anywhere now.

is it definately from the distributer? Only 2 things come to mind, either impact (ie. the tip of the rotor is hitting one of the posts for the plug wires) or too large of a gap on one and you are hearing the arc. Pull the cap off and look for abnormalities on all of the plugwire points and see if your rotor is loose. If you think it is arcing, you can identify which one by systematically disconnecting one at a time. Without a ground, that particular point won't arc.

fuel pump?

I'll have to check. don't recall offhand

always good to see a pathy come back to life

I moved a motor home about 30 miles using a similar method. The fuel tank was shot and fuel pump bad (it was during cleanup after Hurricane Katrina) so we pulled open the engine cover and had one guy dripping gasoline from a 5 gallon container directly into the carb. Talk about a fire hazard.

I used to have a loud thunk when I would start or stop. Turns out my son had left his bowling bag in the back of the truck and it was rolling around

muddy trails with a dose of rocks

yep, pacesetters have the EGR port. Mine were slightly misaligned but it was easy enough to bend a degree or two in the EGR tube to get it to fit.

loose fit everything first. Tighten to heads first, then work your way down the pipes

loose fit everything first. Tighten to heads first, then work your way down the pipes

yes.

I never paid attention, just kept track of where I put them. Does the FSM offer any clues (like all being same torque)?

I threw mine away. The served no purpose other than to help my short-legged mother get into my truck after I did a poor-man's lift. I also proved that they have no ability to act like rock-sliders.

if both sprayers are weak, it's probably your pump going south. One way to check is temoprarily swap the lines and use your rear pump to flow through the front tubing. That will elimiante the tubing if it flows fine. Then pull the pump and disassemble it. Clean the impeller and lightly silicone everything that moves. I've rebuilt a few of these,

not sure about an r50 but when my carpets got soaked, it was due to being rusted through under the carpet and when my AC condensor drain got plugged and all the condensate pooled and sloshed onto the floor

I think there is some kind of special glass adhesive that they use. It comes in a tube like caulk but is black. Might do a little digging or check your local parts store. Taking the old glass out is EASY... just use a good pair of gloves, a hammer and a shop vac. Getting the replacement from the donor pathy would be a bit trickier.

this weekend. Finally warm enough to do some much needed work.

broke my frame again. Good thing I still have some steel leftover from my last repair.

I'm sitting in the 210000 mile range. Might not last much longer as my son is getting his license next week.

I did my cam shafts without too much difficulty.

When I first got my truck, my doors would lock but I noticed that the alarm would never passively activate. Investigation showed that the pin for the hood switch in the connector under the seat was actually bent and not making contact. The damned truck always thought the hood was open. That is the one thing that there is no idiot light for on the dash. I was getting a buzz rather than a beep when I armed the system. I would check the pins in the connector first. Check the diagram in the FSM for the pin-out and you can check the hood switch from there.