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Everything posted by k9sar
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don't suppose you have a tranny cooler installed, do you? Have you checked for any codes from the trans control module?
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threw a receiver on the 07 Odyssey to get the logsplitter back to the rental place (needed one anyway for my bike rack). I have to pickup some 3/16 steel at the local welding supply shop and the Pathy will hauling rice-burners out of the snow again this winter
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threw the trailer receiver in the back end after the mounting brackets finally rusted through and the damned thing fell off while my son was driving.
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I have the same config with the JGC springs etc. My pathy squeaks like an old U-Haul trailer when I drive. One of these days, I'll need to crawl under it and hav ethe kids jump up and down on the bumper.
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not sure about the R50's but mine leaks from the pressure sending unit (need to replace it) and from the main engine seal (too much work for the amount that is leaking) Best bet is to get under there with a few rags and wipe everything down. Run the truck until the engine is hot, then get back under and look for the leak. If you still can't tell, you can sling some baby powder or flour around to give a light coating, then run the truck until you can see where the oil is coming from.
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I 'clogged' a cat before... it was on a 71 pinto that I ran so hot (slightly modified engine) that it melted the honeycomb interior into a big lump of solid blockage. Talk about back-pressure.
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well then I would definitely do the o-ring thing then add a leak detector to the system and see if there is anywhere else your refrigerant is going
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welded the upper heat shield back on my cat so it didn't make a hellish rattle sound every time I stopped at a traffic light
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My AC is always working.... sometimes it just means Air Circulation when I open the windows
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my EGR valve was clogged with mud one time and threw a code.
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I can't imagine the rear ABS is necessary for normal function though I wonder if they will pass it for inspection if there is an indicator of a problem with the brake system. hmmm... do I fix it with a piece of black electrical tape over the indicator or do I really look into the issue...???... hmmm......
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k. thanks. I glanced at the diagnostic and saw the connector ground but didn't read much more because the family came home and I had to put my toys away and do yardwork.
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pacesetters on mine. cooked the paint off the first time I drove it. Had to do some other work a couple weeks later so I sprayed them with a high-temp paint and they still look ok. No longer shiny, but ok just the same.
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got almost 3" with mine
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95 pathy SEV6 Before I dig through the FSM and do troubleshooting, thought I'd check with the masses and see if anyone has the easy/quick answer. The ABS idiot light on my instrument panel is on. My fluid was a little low but not below the minimum level on the reservoir. I topped off the brake fluid but the ABS light is still on. Anyone else have this happen and what was the cause? Just trying to save myself some diagnostic time cause I'm old and lazy.
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I stopped trying and just strapped mine together with long zip-ties
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I had the exact same rust pattern. Fairly easy to grind some clean surface, piece some steel in there and weld it.
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exactly why I bought a cheap MIG welder from harborFreight. I pickup some 1/8 inch weld steel from a local fab shop and patch areas as needed. After welding I alays super-coat the area and anywhere else with a can of rubberized underoating.
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that will never die! LOL
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So I went to my favorite junk yard today............
k9sar replied to byob's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
seriously. Obviously propped up on the rims by someone who doesn't know how strong the nerf bars are. No way in hell I'd crawl under there -
mine is getting a popping sound on tight turns and my 4wd is not grabbing well (checked while in snow and only the DS spun to get traction). I suspect I've blown a CV joint but it will have to wait till it's warmer before I start tearing mine apart
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I had to rebuild the connector for my MAF. Made it so the wire came off at 90 degrees rather than up since my harness wire was actually hitting the hood and I think that is what caused the bad connection over time
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I always smear a little silicone on all my gaskets just to account for any irregularities in the mating surfaces. Be careful with a thermostat though. You don't want excess goop to break loose and clog the bleed hole in the thermostat
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I put the cheap sh!t in. Mine leaks enough that I need quantity rather than quality. On a positive note, it's never in there long enough to breakdown so the longevity of the oil is not an issue.
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Thanks!
