Precise1

Honestly, it doesn't look that bad. Be creative and patient to get things to line up/level out, that would improve things 80%. Hell, I drove the one in my signature for years without a grill and a few bent items. One trick that can help is to force something into alignment, drill an appropriate sized hole and secure it in place with a heavy machine screw. It'll take up any slack and hold things in place well. You may need more than 1 screw though... B

It is tack welded on so you would need to cut it off and weld a new one on. Not hard per se, but you need the welding knowhow and have to line it up straight... B

My guess is that the bushings in your one arm were so bad, it masked this effect which is caused by one or more of the other components. Now that you have taken care of the worst one, you are feeling this. One of the reasons you might just feel it in 4th and 5th is that it puts the most load on the axle and you are going at a faster rate of speed which could magnify the feel/effect of any yaw. AFAIK there is no front/rear bias, it should just be a symmetrical arm. You didn't think to mark it when you removed it? B

Ahh, to be young and have everything be a pissing match again... Yes, there is power to be had several ways, but I suspect you aren't governed by smog laws? I like what you are doing, but not everyone can do or justify it. B

Simple, just wear a bubblewrap onesie... No, I've not heard of any guard, nor of a lot of people breaking them. Slow down, Mongo! B

Hell no! It makes you not care about waiting for help to show up... B

You have to push down on the shifter and pull back to get the rest. It is a safety feature to keep you from hitting 4wd low while shifting on the fly. If it is really stiff, there is a linkage bracket on the transfer case dirvers side IIRC that could use some cleaning/lube. B

Well, the easy answer is to set up a caltrop drop system. That will slow them down regardless of motor size... The other is to wait until you are mid accel curve, and then brake check them. That should be amusing as well. Third and seriously, you have the option of intake, headers and VG33 swap or some combination of all three, depending on local laws. Nothing will make the WD21 a rocket, but it will help. The other answer is not to worry what others do and appreciate what you have. B

Yes, you always replace needle or roller bearings and races as a set (the bearings will come with races), spherical caged bearings not so much as they are generally used in low pressure, non-critical applications. I changed mine in the driveway with appropriate sized pieces of soft metal, 2x4s and a dead blow (to remove/install the races), but you can just take the rotor to a shop and have them press out/press in the races and do the rest yourself. Generally, the outer are the high load ones that wear/get damaged more, but my attitude is that if you change the bearings, change all of them, both inner and outer. If you do, you will need a set of inner bearings/races, a set of outer bearings/races and an inner seal per side. Look in the FSM (available for download in a pinned thread in the Garage section) for the instructions and preload settings... B

Thank you for that information, and thanks SilverPath for bringing this to my attention! Link fixed... B

Damn, my buddy was over today and has one on his 1991, but I didn't look closely. If I see him in the next few days, I'll check it out for you... B

Yes, I have but if the bearings didn't have evidence of wear and still run smoothly, just repack and reinstall them. The ones I changed on my second Pathy were crunchy, you could feel it when rotating them by hand... B

Up your... Oh, you mean on the vehicle? Yes, up front as has been said. Two reasons, the front takes the majority of the braking load, and in driving if the back slips you fishtail and/or spin and have a chance to recover. If the front slips, you'll slide into what ever is in the direction you were headed with little hope of salvation. B

You have cailpers that read in 64ths of an inch!! That totally defeats the porpoise of calipers! The green ring, that must be in mm, not inches. It looks like 5.2mm... 13/64=.203" 5.2mm=.204" That tells me the green dial of the calipers is even mislabeled! Good write up and it will help people with this issue, but throw out that plastic joke stick and get one of these (just turn it off when not in use) http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html If you insist on old school... http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-dial-caliper-66541.html B

Damn, that sounds like it should be shot out of sympathy... B

Good trick, I never thought of that... B

I'd pay $3k for that in a heart beat as long as it was rust free and the work done was done right... Yep! B

Any time Bud. B

Well, at least it wasn't totally stripped or wrecked or whatever, and isn't too bad to fix. WTH? The vehicle is stolen, reported stolen, towed and stored, you aren't notified and then you have to pay to get it back? Who in their right minds would think that is how it should work? B

Oh, wait, this one with the pre-cat? what bolts are you talking about? The holes in the flang opposite end of the cat are 11+mm, and the bolts for the flange onto the cat are pretty damn rusted. Do you want me to try to pull one and if I can get them out, do you need the pipe? I was just holding onto it incase I had issues passing smog with my custom exhaust. B

Yeah, I used some of that goop as well. 1 tiny tube covered about 20% of my garage. I still find some on random tools... I was curious as I have zerks in my Superlift UCAs and cut grease channels/holes in the bushings. Not enough road time for any feedback though... *snort* Formula 4... Just like this is almost as good as WD-40... B

They are totally unimportant, you can run without them just fine. One of our resident mechanics says he just throws them away when doing manifold work. B

If the piston is corroded on the outside, replacing the seal might not be sufficient either. You may need to replace the piston as well or just replace the entire unit. Just don't skimp on the brakes, Bud. B

You are welcome. Have you really tried to fit it in that same space yet? Reason being, if you can go off of those same two mounting holes I used (or whatever else), it should be pretty straight forward. Give me the mounting pattern/requirements of the compressor and the location of the mounting holes to the wheel well and I have no problem drilling/taping someholes for you. The mill/drill in my garage is pretty beat, but its good enough for something like this... The problem with the fluid reservoir is running wires around the engine bay. B

No stock exhaust available unless I pull one off of a pathy in a parking lot somewhere, and that might be misunderstood... B