Precise1

It'll be the loctite that works, over-torquing just weakens the threads... B

No one said it couldn't be done, just to avoid it if at all possible. I have personally driven a dunebuggy (aircooled VW 1600cc dual port) damn near from Cabo San Lucas to La Paz (about 100 miles) on 3 cylinders with the 4th having no plug, and then buying a head and replacing it on the side of the highway. That motor didn't have injectors, computers, sensors, etc but I still didn' like it. You have to do what you have to do, just know what that is and minimize it. The recommendation of disconnecting the the injector harness, plug wiring is good regardless. That is good to hear, but why did you say you stripped the hole before? B

Not too late? I hear you on not wanting to fix what isn't broken though, it gets worse as you age so get on it or give it up... B

I'm along with the others, lets see what you have and then we'll talk about mods and your wallet... B

Honestly, I'd try my damndest to get it in running shape, then sell the whole rig for $3k or so. You might have to pull every string you have ( been there, but it is possible), but you'll come out the other side with some $ and people who you can work with. Then use the $ to upgrade your rig as you see fit. Look at the big picture... B

I don't know what damage it might do, but I wouldn't want the drive it 15 miles! B

Nice! Good info, thanks for sharing. I always suspected that a good shape VG33 with VG30 cams, intake and headers should hit 200hp and this indicates it should be close. That might not be a big deal to a lot of people, but it is quite a step up from a tired, stock VG30! Two questions: What is your intake/exhaust set up and what does your butt dyno say? B

I've seen plugs come out of a VG33 which I suspect were original at 250k miles. The electrode was burned down almost flush with the ceramic so the gap was aprox .090-.100" Hard to tell, I don't have feeler gauges that thick so I had to triple stack some and that isn't very accurate. It is quite possible yours have never been removed... Oddly enough, they weren't too hard to remove. And yes, that Pathy drove to my house to have the tune up done. It started and ran fine... I also have the G-Power platinum and don't have any problem with them, but they aren't necessary as ahb points out. My thought (and what is claimed) was that they should help with emissions better/longer than the standard or V power. I don't have any real empirical data to share though. B

I really don't advise trying any harder unless you want the plugs to come out with all the threads as well, these are aluminum heads and you risk stripping them. I would soak the wells with a good penetrant like PB-Blaster or the like for a few days, and run it until it gets hot a time or two, then try to remove them when hot and then when cold, but not with a cheater pipe! This might take some finess if you want put plugs back into it... Also, if they break free and are really stiff, don't keep cranking on them. You have to let them set for a bit (to cool down), re lube them, turn them back in a little (should be much easier) and then try backing them out again, repeat as necessary. My friend had to do this and changing the plugs took 1/2 the day, but he got them all out without breaking a plug, strupping any threads, etc... What he said, or a regular spark plug socket with a 6" extension. Two tricks I use, one is a 2" telescoping mirror on a stick and a flashlight so I can see to get things lined up, and the other is to make a mark or outline on the firewall with a permanent marker when you first get the socket on the spark plug. This will help a lot when you line it back up to start the threads on the new plug, by hand of course. The sockets with the needles are called Gator Grip sockets and can actually work quite well. I've had one for years and it has helped me out a few times, even installing 1 way security screws with a cordless impact gun. I'm not sure if it is big/deep enough for a spark plug, I'll check it out tomorrow. You might have to try a selection of deep dish sockets until you find one that fits well... B

Yes, it sounds like the threads were already damaged and a problem, especially if it (partially) stripped the bolt as well. Just to re-inforce, jamming a bolt in and just cranking on it in these scenarios rarely works well or long and often makes it more difficult/costly to repair correctly. Now I honestly believe the issue is your UCA mount bolts and check them right away, it might not be safe to drive if you are missing bolts or they aren't tight. Re-tapping might not work anymore either, at least with the same size threads. FYI, when 'chasing' a tapped hole to clean up the threads, it is important to use a roll or cold form tap to properly replace the material, not a cut tap. A cut tap might just cut out even more material leaving you with weak, undersized threads and the illusion of proper strength and engagement. I suspect that at this point they should be drilled over and tapped to a new bolt size, but it shouldn't have to be much larger, or some sort of threaded insert or helicoil be installed. At this point I do not recommend doing it yourself, but watch the repair person to learn. It is very important that your front tires are properly attached to the truck, and if there are any damaged or misformed threads on the bolts, they are junk so throw them away. Like I said, you might wind up with a totally different pitch anyway so no big loss. I had just copied someone info on all of this, I'll dig it up and repost here... B Here is a start... As for the stripped out holes, they can be retapped and that would allow you to mount properly without any special set up. One person used helicoils so threadserts or whatever might be an option as well. I really would try that first. Here is some info... http://www.nissanpat...stripped holes

He is undeniably right about this part anyway. Speed bumps are there to slow you down and 90% of the ones I have seen are in 25mph zones in the first place. The only vehicles that I have owned that wouldn't complain about that kind of treatment were enduro motorcycles. They may be jacking you around on other things, but this one is spot on. We really do need to stay on the topic of replacing strut rod bushings or take it elsewhere though, this is a How To write up after all. Thanks, B

Do you mean the upper control arm mount bolts? (not correcting, just different terminology so I understand) It sounds like perhaps the new bolts are longer and bottomed out so it isn't properly secured, or perhaps not sufficiently torqued? Replacing those bolts shouldn't affect anything else though so I would start there. Have you checked your tension rod bushing? (lower control arm back to the frame) Those wear hard and will allow metal on metal contact. Also, try re-torquing the front cross member bolts as well and let us know if it still does it. B

I moved these posts to the 1990-1995 WD21 section as the Garage/Parts Info section is for stating part numbers, ordering information, sources, prices, etc. No biggie, just trying to keep things organized... B

I moved these posts to the 1990-1995 WD21 section as the Garage/Parts Info section is for stating part numbers, ordering information, sources, prices, etc. No biggie, just trying to keep things organized... B

Crap, sorry to hear that, I have had it happen before myself... As for the compressed air, you can get a can of air used for cleaning electronics. While it isn't unlimited blasting, using the straw and some judiciousness will go a long way. I use them all the time when I don't want to break out the compressor and they can be handy to keep in a tool kit. I recommend you remove the plug wire, look down with a flashlight to see what is in the well, use a stick or something to loosen things up if appropriate and then give it a blast or two to hopefully clear things out. This should always be done with all vehicles, you really don't want crap in the cylinders! Remember, if the straw isn't long enough, you can splice them together by pulling a slit in one straw for about 1/4", put another straw in to it as far as it will go then seal and connect them with some tape... B

X2 !! Jacknuts are another option, but yeah, many people have done it, it isn't hard. Some people pull their headliner, but apparently there is nothing in the way so you don't have to... B

Thanks guys! The wife doesn't really mind me upgrading my Pathy, because in reality I am into it for about $7k and it has 106k miles on it. It will last me a long time, will be exactly the way I want it and is still several times cheaper than a new truck. Good one! Funny thing is the WD21 has 106k miles and the R50 has 172k. The 'older' is actually newer... I agree if I am treking, but it is fun to play sometimes also. B

Yes, I do and yes, Autometer. They look almost exactly like the stock gauges and are reasonablely priced, so it works for me! B

Hey Greg!! Yeah, everything you have said is absolutely true, anything can get stuck if you try, although some put up a damn good fight! The reality comes in 3 levels AFAIC. That are you trying to do/where are you trying to go? Does it need to be street legal? How much do you want to spend? My version of wheeling is more expedition style where you get no points for breaking things or getting stuck, there might not be anyone to get you out! I pick my line carefully and look for the easy way... Nothing against the mud boggers or rock crawlers, they are just different sports AFAIC. Fair enough Bud, it's your truck and you know what you want it for. I will play devils advocate though... Rims and tires: Wider rims for a more stable stance and some aggressive AT or even mild MT tires will make the biggest difference there is. The wider rims help keep the body off of obstacles... Mild suspension lift: Rear coils and cranking the T-bars/alignment. 2" benefit for less than $200 Swap in an LSD rear if you do not have it already Good recovery points, meaning dual hooks up front and a good point in the rear... You don't have to dive into every mudhole you see, but a little bit upgrade will make the pathy far more capable! Here is my example. Ignore the bumper and it has a 2" body lift as well as a suspension lift so -2" at the wheel wells, otherwise those are 15x8" rims with 31" tires on it. Not remotely overdone and perfectly drivable every day, yet quite capable offroad. Did I lose any classic lines? B

Holy hell, you put the pillar pod in a spaceship? Good job, I believe you are the first to finish the install (or at least the first to talk aboot it). I love it that you have a boost gauge as well. Did you get that idea from me or was it just parallel thinking? B

Kinda shady? Well, you had best get it out of there then, if for nothing more than peace of mind. I'm sorry, but I can't help much from California, but depending, I might lave a lead on an ECU. Have your mechanic send you a few pictures of the Pathy, inside, under the hood, etc so you can 'show some of your buddies'. You might want to make a post in the regional section about this, there might be someone local that can help you. It's a long shot but worth a minute to try. Good luck in the sand box, when are you coming home? B

Ebay? Part out here in the Classified section? Not just any ECU will work though. IIRC, it needs to be within a certain numerical range (look on yours for the serial number) to match and you can use an auto ecu in a manual shift car (I think there is something you have to loop or power), but not the other way around. I seem to recall a thread on the ECU ranges here previously so a search is in order, or maybe Alkorahil can supply the required info, but I hesitate to volunteer someones services... So, step 1, is your auto or manual, what are the numbers on the ecu and your vin might help/be needed as well. B

That is just plain nutz! I wonder why an R50 is being used. What about it makes it the desirable candidate? Front/rear weight ratio, driver safety or what? I love it that it is Fabio driving, he's such an attention whore... B

Good point. I just assumed it filled by then... B

A few things were done wrong here, the main being running when it was under water, when it was pulled out you didn't pull all the plugs and crank it to clear the cylinders of any water, it sat for 6 months and then you cranked it without using a bore snake to look in the cylinders first to see of there was any rust/corrosion. Just consider that for next time. I would still look in the cylinders to what is in there, I would check the condition/connections of the ignition system, drain the tank as much as possible and put fresh gas in it, find a replacement ECU (even just borrow one if you can), then try to start it. If it doesn't even try to catch, check for spark, injectors firing and wiggle wiring/check resistance of the main sensors (MAF, TPS CAS). By running submerged, I'll bet you fried the ECU (which is under the front passenger seat) and maybe some sensors as well. With a little bit if luck, it didn't suck any water but it might have backfilled in the tailpipe; I'm assuming you have a snorkel on it which is why the intake wasn't submerged? B