Precise1

Ok, got it. I'm just trying to find any relation or cause/effect. How many tanks of fuel between the sea foam treatment and the SES warning? Anything else you can think of that might relate and keep this from being totally random? Good point, and I was specifically referencing fuel injector cleaner. So, that generates 3 questions for me: so does that mean that Seafoam has PEA, is the Techron fuel injector cleaner worth using then and if not what is a food injector cleaner, not system cleaner? B

Seems like you got good info and answers so I didn't chime in. What is it that hasn't been answered? B

No problem! There are a few members here that are familiar with that engine and the Hardbodies in general, so hopefully they will chime in soon... B

Oh crap, that was funny! (absolutely accurate as well) B

Still, I agree with Adam, I was fearing worse. With that, a Magnaflow cat and Thorley headers you could have a no fuss full exhaust upgrade for about $1k. Not too bad, really... 2" is adequate for modest gains, especially if you don't have headers or haven't done an intake mods. I'd recommend it for anyone with a rotting stock system. B

As far as I know, the earliest downloadable FSM is 1994 and that won't help you a bit as that year is MPFI and you have TBI. You may have to buy something off of Ebay or something... B

That is a hard question to answer without knowing why you say it is time for a different vehicle. B

When did you run the seafoam through it? I was going to recommend some injector cleaner (just for good luck), I didn't see cap and rotor mentioned so they might be fried, and after that, check the timing. The random part has me scratching my head, makes me think you might have an intermittent wiring/connector issue. Have you tried an advanced search here for 'random misfire' or the like? Also, you can download a copy of the FSM in the pinned thread in the Garage section. That should have some trouble shooting info in it as well. B

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First off, that is a cool picture and you have done a good job with the truck. Second, what Red said. I have heard of many situations where they have deleted posts/threads and banned members for posting anything from negative feed back for their products to mentioning (and obviously now displaying) competetors/parts, often with little to no explanation. From helping staff a web site, I know that things are not always what they appear to be to members/guests, but the intimately involved know exactly. That said, they seem very insecure about feed back and their market position in general. I think it is silly as it always comes down the the ratio of cost/quality/service, let the user decide what is appropriate for them, not deny that options exist. I do not know first hand, but I have only purchased a few parts and never joined the forums. B

About the only things that might be different is the ECU and maybe some trim. Knock your self out... B

So, it sounds like it is engine RPM dependent, not wheel/drive train dependent? It sounds more mount related to me but hard to tell from here. Be careful with it in the air. I have done the same and it diagnosed U joints for me but make sure it is well supported, especially if you are reving/shifting. B

Ok, one from a 1999.0 R50 is 25" deep, 55" wide at rear most clip, 58" wide forward. A WD21 is more like 52" rear and 55", 25" forward of thatNot that it couldn't be done, but a universal aftermarket might be just as cheap/easy. B

"maintain" a brand new engine and/or tranny installed for free? Yeah, that is worth it! B

How thick is the drilled through wall? Welding would be the way to go but you would want a skilled aluminium welder to do it as you need a good seal and minimal distortion. Oil pumps are usually not an issue with these motors but if you are there and it isn't a big deal, then it is cheap insurance as the motor should last 250-300k miles under reasonable use. Do you know what the pressure was before you took it apart? B

Umm, you don't have a full sized spare? Unless you have done some lifting on your truck, 33s aren't really going to fit. 10.5" wide on the stock legos will be the easiest to fit. B

I have to dig around in the pathfinders today, so I'll do some basic measurements to make sure it can fit or not. Yes, there would probably be some cutting involved... B

You would see a thin layer of brake pad type material or a spot where something was obviously bonded and pulled off unless it was completely worn over. That finish looks too uniform, more like a forging or heat treat surface. The surface there it obviously broke, is it grainy like a casting or more smooth and torn/twisted? B

Cool, I'm glad you got it nailed. Yeah, everyone has their annoyances. One of mine is a once per rev noise that changes with rpm or speed. That'll drive me batty in a hurry! Right. Always good to have spares. I'm assuming that is squeak free as well? B

Anything is better than the stock bumpers sheet metal ornaments but that looks much more solid, maybe 3x. The mounts/bolts are probably the weak point now. I like the understated/low profile look! Building a sleeper wheeler, eh? B

I'd be interested (not ready to pony up yet). Critical items as I see them: They would have to be with cat or they are useless to me and anyone in California. It would have to be shown the gains of headers with a stock cat back VS aftermarket cat back system. Does anyone even make an aftermarket cat back exhaust for the R50? (never checked) This might wake up the old LUXSUV enough for me to fix it up a bit. I seriously think the stock cats are more tham big enough to handle the flow from a 3.3, the input/output is larger than the stock 3.0 cat, on each side! (can't see the performance gains of removing them). I don't know the system restrictions down stream though, I suspect it is the same with most vehicles. Headers might be pointless without cat back mods as well. B

Damn, you wouldn't think it would... If you are ever bored, post a video/audio of it. Not that I don't believe you, it would just be interesting. B

If the noise changes, it can mean a lotm, especially when Nissan gears don't whine unless there is an issue. This ain't no Chebby were talking aboot. Good measurement/pictures! That looks too small to be part of a spider gear as they are tapered and this seems to be univerally flat, almost like a bit of a washer or friction plate. I can't say why it broke off or what it means, but I stand by my initial advice. Drive it, just pay attention for a bit... B

Agreed, it really does sound like a harness/connector issue so I think you are on the right track. There is one slim possibility, the ECU. See if you can chase down a spare ECU for your vehicle, just for test purposes (someone might be able to loan you a spare or something). Is yours and manual or auto? B

Just have to ask, have you tried just tightening all the valve cover screws? You can access about 75%, and 1/2 the time that will stop the leaks. I did on our 1999.0 back when it had 150k, 175k now and still good... B