Precise1

Well, thats still only about $1.50/gal in US funds... Sorry, someone had to say it It's only going to keep going up Baby, get used to the idea !! No wonder so many of the neo-facist 'leaders; we have hate that Chaves guy, he's making them look like bigger asses than they already do. B

Ok, I pretty much agree with both you and animal... I wouldn't be suprised if that bearing race/cage is from the input shaft. I believe that can be an issue sometimes, and there is a TSB pinned the garage/tech section about overfilling the case so the front bearing is always lubed. Just a guess... Good luck ! B

I agree with Simon, although depending on how many small wire leads/fusable links are on the positive, it may not be feasible. Also, you can recondtion them by making a mixture of baking soda and water, pouring it on, letting it sit for a bit, rinse it off, repeat until it stops foaming. Then remove the terminal clamps and go over the contact surfaces with sand paper or a stiff wire brush until there is mostly bare metal showing. I have done this with several cars; there generally isn't any reason to change them unless they are so corroded that they are structurally weakened. Yes, I have broken old ones tightening them... Regardless of what you do, slather the terminals and clamps with di-electric grease to prevent it from happening again. You can get a little packet for $1. B

LMAO Trailchaser !! $9500 for a 95 ? Sure, it has low miles, but that is so overpriced, I laugh in their faces !! B

No Steeve, you have to remove the doors, break the spot welds for the outer skin, remove the power window motor and track before accessing the speaker grill release screws... Sorry, couldn't help it... Yes, they pop off on my 95XE B

Yes, I have dealt with these... Use a WIRE gage only to check the gap, a leaf style can damage/wear the tip !!! If it needs adjustment (which it should not) use only the k9sar mentioned tool. DO NOT TOUCH THE ELECTRODE. That said, they are great, but I'm not how they stack up to cheaper ones for price=power+longevity. B

He's been stuck on a boat with guys, rolling with the waves for months now, playing only with fish... Give him a break and some time to get his land/forum legs... B

Oops, sorry... I should have known you were bright enough to own a MT... Damn straight !! Thats a joke ! Can't be worth more than 3K in your local (everything working fine) with those miles. I payed $5700 for a 95XE (95% and no real rust) with 108K here ! I think they are willing to take a loss on it to get the guy to buy a new something... Hope you can get it; offer $750. I'm sure you can sell parts for more than that, especially if it has a roof rack, tire carrier, trailer hitch, etc. (I want some) I can still get the good 3M duct tape at employee sales (used to work there) for a major discount. I can send you a few rolls... B

8 months ago I slammed the front end pretty darn good... Battery still works fine, I'll check to see what kind it is if you are curious. B

I'll hold off from the moron comments until I have a clue what you are talking about... Yeah a picture would be great !! B

The O2 sensor could have something to do with it, but it should just run real rich, not bog and die... And no, changing the air filer should not make anything fail. Did you try the WD-40 trick to look for leaks after the MAF ? Yeesh, this one is annoying, and it isn't even my truck !! B

Dizzy cap or rotor ?? Does the coil have power to it ?? Keep moving backwards till you find out where the juice stops... Long shot, but did you look a fuses or fusable links ? B

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you plan to put that motor in your pathy or your AT in that one... ? Then strip, save, bebuild, sell what ever is reasonable from the other one ?? Definitely under $1000 !! He won't get crap for it as a trade in with a blown AT. Depending on how you do it, with some work, you could wind up making a decent profit on the whole deal. Plenty of parts to sell, and you know how many people here need some. Plenty of duct tape !! B

Welcome back Ryan !!! Cool that you made some bucks, but that was the whole point, wasn't it ? I'll assume you didn't do it just to bunk with the guys... As for getting yelled at, my guess is that you deserved it... Bud B

I've adjusted the worm gear on several vehicles, my pathy included. 1 turn is probably ok, the point is not to 'tighten' it and crush the worm gear as then you will get slop... 1 turn is probably ok, as long as the steering box does not feel tight. What it usually do is mark the original position, turn it until I feel contact, then back it off about 1/8 turn. This will generally remove as much lash as the design allows. I have not replaced or rebuilt a Pathy steering box; I'm not sure how hard it is, and I understand they are nott cheap. B

MZ said it well, you gotta do what you gotta do... And when the time comes, you'll be able to find another one if you still want to. Don't be a stranger Bud !! B

I haven't worked on an auto, but I'm pretty sure to pull the tranny, the t-bars have to be removed along with the crossbar they adjust at. This isn't as bad as it sounds, just mark them so you have an index reference, and measure the thread sticking out of the top of the adjusting mechanism so you can get it very close when they go back in. Hopefully the new tranny comes with a transfer case as I understand they are not fun to deal with. Bypass the stock tranny cooler completely and I believe most people put the aftermarkey one inbetween the radiator and the AC condensor... There are plenty of threads about that. Search will give you the answers. B

From my experience, the worm gear is only good for 1/4-3/4 turn or so before the steering gets a little stiff. If you get to that point, back it of 1/16-1/8 turn and thats as good as it is going to get. Hopefully it is the tire ballance, CL, before the steering gear box. GL Bud... B

Yeah Dowser, I don't know what type of screw or how much access you have to it; sounds tight and hopefully it is a philips... Use a spot drill to make enough of a champher for a drill roughly the size of the minor diameter of the screw. Then drill it with a LEFT handed (CCW) drill. Thats all I can think of if you cant get a L screw driver on it and assuming 88's trick doesn't/can't work... Good Luck ! B

Wouldn't that be telekinesis then ? B

Things would be so much better if most people did this !! Thanks for not saying "scooter" !! :oops: B

KISS... *snicker* "I like it but I'm going to hack it up" *snicker snicker* *pretends to be 88* And thats "windshield", damn it !! *falls over chortling* B

Well, after behaving for a while, the speedo needle did the slomo funky chicken again... This time I figured out what causes it. HARD right hand cornering like you do on a freeway on ramp with a short runway. I'll check the wiring again tomorrow to see if anything is getting pulled. At least I have some idea and a place to start now... B

That certainly makes sense, and I'd have no problem with something mellow like "Congrats on owning a Pathfinder. Come to *&^#^.com for information, repairs and up grade suggestions. Meet people at a website exclusively for pathfinders"... That was of course just sloppily paraphrased. This is definitely something that Mr Jim should decide on... I wouldn't go to far with it before then. B

Well, the more tires you have spinning, the better off you are so a locker is helpful... What 88 said about tire pressure. It also comes down to the weight of the vehicle and the size of the contact patch of your tires (airing down increases contact patch) so naturally, the wider the tires, the better. Then there is tread design... The bigger the knobbies, the better, side lugs help also. Ultimately you want paddle tires but they are not street legal. Some good MT or AT's should work fine. Sometimes you can just churn your way through... ie. 4x4, 2nd gear at about 2000-2500 rpm and patience... B