Precise1

Thanks for the offer Bud !! We need a good tranny guy... No offense to others. B

You are demented Red !! Maybe thats why I like you.... At least you had to stampede the guy, I've had someone ask me for a brass magnet before... I had a buddy who 'rebuilt' the carbs on his motorcycle, was too cheap to buy new float bowl seals and used silicone... Then called me up because it wouldn't run. I was able to troubleshoot that one over the phone. "Pull them apart and clean them dumba$$ !!". I was 16 and knew better !! Ahh, the mamories... B

Ok, well thats probably the oil for you although trying a 20-50 couldn't hurt as long as it doesn't get too cold. Carbon on the valves generally indicates running too rich or burning oil. As you said, no oil consumption so lets look at running rich. Cant hurt to flush the engine with a detergent. There are many 'cleaners' out there and I won't comment on which to use. I do know some mechanics who recommend a quart of AT fluid type F for a few hundred miles, then change the oil again to clean the engine case. EGR valve clogged on the intake side of the EGR... I suspect that you mean from the exhaust... That would indicate running rich somehow. That would be sensor/injector/ecu related. Check all sensor inline plugs that you can, cleaning them when possible. Run some injector cleaner, I prefer Redline, some swear by seafoam. How old is your O2 sensor ? Do you have smog checks there ? Do you have any exhaust manifold leaks ? B

Well lgranch, from all thats been said over the last year, I agree with you that this guy is a chump. Because of that, I hesitate to make any real recommendations as I have no confidence in the work he did to the motor. Something may be worng with the work he did on that side. Personally, if I tear comething down significantly, I like to reassemble soon while it is still fresh in my mind. I have heard of the AT type F trick, and know a few mechanics who use it. I'd say no harm doing it, but I'd need to hear, feel the truck run before I said go ahead and drive it. This is one of those situations where it is difficult to advise. I'd probably take it to a good mechanic who knows nisssans and get their opinion. One thing that may be informative is the compression check all the cylinders... B

NO !! You think so ?? Yep, thats what I suspected, hence starting with injector cleaner, etc... B

It's really easy... He'll know how to do it. 1-3 splines is whats recommended depending on how bad they have sagged. I indexed 2 splines on mine. If you go farther than necessary, the torquing arm of the adjustment system may protrude below the crossmember that it sits in. This is bad as you could possibly catch it on something offroad, making for a bad day. The T-bars may bind somewhat in the front mounts, if so, just loosen the three bolts that hold it on and they will slip out. Remember to scribe marks on the mount and T-bar for reference and some high pressure chassis grease to relube is a good idea. GL, and let us know how it went. B

What a bunch of Jackals !! B

LMAO Rami !! I'll jump if you jump first, for exactly the same reason; I'll be aiming for you !! Not working I use about $25 gas every 2 weeks so I can afford to wait and see if any problems develope and what the fixes are... Kinda a "don't loose/win" situation. B

HAHAHAHA.... Right !! *flushes toilet* B

You do realise that both are written by the same guy... That said, I'll wait a month or 2 while 88 uses it, then I'll try it. B

Good wheel366... You haven't payed him yet I hope... B

Fair enough MZ, I was just precisely quoting Chiltons about the 105k miles... You buy a scooter yet ? Don't worry about a helmet, you don't need one. B

Hmm, ok, well there is not much difference between 105-110k. Yes, I agree, it probably doesn't have to be on the dot. 200k is plain stupid. If someone wants to risk smashing the motor to bits, well, thats their choice. Personally I bought the Pathy partially because the motors last so long, but that goes away when you are slapping valves into pistons... B

Hmm, just guessing but... Injector cleaner, maybe run thicker oil (what do you use and what is your local temperature) and how is your O2 sensor ? Yes, older (worn) motors produce more crap... B

The 94-95 are 105k miles change intervals, pre 94 are 60k... B

k9sar, you are just out of starting fluid... It's at every auto parts store, I can't believe you let it get so low !! Just go buy some and fill the starter... B

Can you just call him back ? Otherwise follow MZ's advice... B

8.5) Put on a goat's head and dance naked to drums around a bonfire before slaughtering a lamb in sacrifice. (use a stone alter if possible) B

Hey, I ordered my share !! Washed the truck today and damn, there was paint under all the bird isht !! Put the sticker on and WTF ?? Don't be a dumb arse like me !! I'm good at eyeballing level, so thats what I did. BUT the truck was parked at the curb and leaning slightly which means that the sticker is now officially crooked. It's not horrible, but I notice it. Oh well. What did piss me off was that something wierd happened as the last 'o' in association didn't transfer and I couldn't get it lined up well by hand !! So the sticker is like my truck, slightly crooked. All's right in the universe... B

Ahh, ok, I get it... No harm done. I have never owned a car with a waterpump that wasn't run off of the crank pully. Seems silly to do it otherwise, but then I'm not an engineer. B

I guess you are saying that a true 4x4 has solid axles only ? While IFS has it's weaknesses, it doesn't make a vehicle incapable. That said, I'm waiting for the Calmini SAS kit, mainly because fixing the frame ear and replacing all the worn components will cost at least 50-75% of the conversion. You said you have coils on all four, how did you set it up ? B

Do you know if/when anything has last been done to it ? Assuming no or many miles ago, a full tune up is always good (incl oil change). If you don't know about the timing belt, change it/have it changed. They are rated for 60k miles on a 93, so assuming it was done per schedule you are 20k away from the 2nd replacement. These are interference motors, don't fool around when it comes to the T belt. When I buy a 4x4, I always change all the fluids (tranny, diff's,etc) for peace of mind and to set up a maintenence schedule. It is fairly cheap to do. If you replace the tranny fluid (manual tranny) make sure to read the TSB pinned in the garage/tech section. B

Yep, check the electrical connections at the battery, the main ground, at the starter, etc. I'd bet thats the issue. Also, due to the location of the starter and that damn oil filter, the starter gets soaked in oil. When I replaced my clutch, I pulled the starter and used 1.5 cans of electrical contact/brake cleaner on it to get it clean before reinstalling. It looked like a waste oil sump pump !!! B

The best way to get better milage is remove your lift kit, and put on smaller tires... It would be nice if the acetone trick worked and was harmless to the fuel system and engine, but like you, I don't want to be the one to test it out. I seem to remember reading something about this before but with a negative slant. Maybe it'll come back to me when I wake up... B

*snicker* Dammit V6, you get another diesel option we dont ? I really wonder why that is... B