Precise1

Bah... Clocking mark or indexing mark... Clean off a visible spot where the splines go into their socket. Use a punch or chisel (or whatever) to make a mark in the same place radially on both the T-bar and socket. That way you have a reference on the 'clocking' so you can see how much you have indexed it and can always return it to the 'stock' location if ever so needed.

Well, unless you need brakes more often than every 2 years, it seems to me like you are bleeding and flushing the system more often then if you just did it every brake servicing... Either way is fine, and as long as the brakes work fine, thats all that matters. I just have a dendency to everything at once. I hadn't changed the brake fluid in the truck (had it 1 year now) and it was no longer clear, so it definitely needed it ! B

The answer is 5 quarts GL-4 and ONLY GL-4 !!!! I added about a pint of lucas oil stabliser for good luck... Here is the manual tranny TSB http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 Congrats on getting it all back together, I'm sure it will work fine !! B

I had to loosen the 3 bolts on the front socket for the T-bars. I think the front spline was binding somewhat. Once the front was loose, they slipped out easy ! Don't forget to put some good clocking marks on them before you take them out. B

Yes, I do Simon. I guess it isn't necessary if you don't open the system anywhere, but it is also cheap end easy... Last weekend I replaced the brake fluid and bled the system without doing anything else. I'm kind of particular about brakes. B

err, did you bleed them ? Yes disk brakes are super easy; it amazes me how many people will pay a couple hundred dollars... More $ than they know what to do with I guess... B

You may also just want to look underneath from the drivers side. If the set up is anything like the WD21s, you can see the shifter at the tranny, and there can just be stuff/crap there blocking it. A shot of lube on the lock out bracket can never hurt either. Take a look and if you can see it, it will be clear... B

tmorgan, the front skid plate with both mounting blocks and 6 M6 bolts is 8 pounds. I payed $60 for the blank with tax and delivery, but I didn't search much, just went with a convenient supplier. For white UHMW PE 3/8" thick I have prices around $30, and I'm still looking around. The key for me to make them cheaply is to have a decent place to work, a few dies and some dedicated tools. I made this one in the back yard with a deck and C clamps ! One issue is that they have to be heated to bend, and that can only be done so fast. I probably spent 15-20 hours figuring the first one out start to finish; having what I need, I could make one in 3-4 hours, maybe faster. I have a hard time guessing at prices right now, but I'll throw out $120ish once I started production. It's all up in the air though until I can get situated. The undercarrage skids will be easier to make, and I'll look at that soon. I'll keep updating. B

Yes, I believe that to be true... Good point. B

Well, it looks pretty straight forward in the manual, but who knows the reality of it... I'm more curious why it siezed in the first place... B

Ok, thanks Bud. B

camopathy is selling a new ignition switch... look in the classifieds/parts for sale.... B Beter yet, here is the link... It is for an 88. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5940

I'm pretty darn sure it is the same engine... From what my manual says, all 3.0 V6 bolt in the same... You sure you are not confusing the TBI with the MPI (injection systems) ? Also, the front crossmember (cradle) is NOT weld in, it is bolt in, at least on the 4x4s. Take a look under yours, it is what the rear of the front skid plate bolts to. I'll bet all you see is bolts also. I thought you were looking for a 4x4 chassis to go with rather than convert ? B

Nah, all mice are all dead, and rats are being trapped and poisoned as we speak... Got much bigger things that need attention, a decent job and place to live to start with. Note my avatar and description. Ok, I know you are slow... Note my avatar and description. Think you can go from there ?? Oh, and Shut up Red !! B

Shut up Red !! MZ, I agree, I told him just to pull a damn bolt and go from there... I'm normally more relaxed, but life is being obstinate, so I'm getting irritated... No worries, the veins can handle it for a while... B

Shut up Red !! It just goes back to another thread where I said the same thing and he just said he was lazy... B

15mpg is what I average for short in town trips with my WD21, without acetone. I thought the article said 1-2 oz per 10 gallons, but less is more beyond that point... Up the concentration maybe ? Check me on that. Air up the tires to 35-40 psi, and keep the RPMs under 3000 (thats the rule with a WD21 anyway)... Interested to hear your highway milage compared to before... B

What dip ishts !! You could buy the bolts for $3 each max (plus shipping if required). All they would do is save some lazy ass (like MM) the time to pull a bolt, measure it, and do some 4th grade math. "not available in the US" Oh, so they are Indian zink coated pot metal that no one else would carry ? I dare them to name a bolt I couldn't find several good suppliers for, from brass to grade 8. I run into this kind of crap at auto or hardware places all the time... "You can't get it anywhere else" or "we are the only ones who carry that". BS ! I say I'm a tool and die maker and know there are many suppliers. "Ok, if you think you know" they say. I had one asshat tell me "they don't make those (bolts)" WTF ? I said fine, I'll make my own. "You cant, thats not possible" it said. I told him to put on his 'tard helmet before he fell down and did more damage... All that said, pull the damn bolt MM and do some math. If you can't find a place to order it, I will. You have wasted 5x the time it would have taken to do it yourself already !! Sheesh, some peoples... B

LMAO, I'm from Cali... Miserable summer near the coast this year and I have not been in the sun much for a while, but I'd look Hindu next to them. Canada is sounding less appealing now... B

Nice place and makes for a nice day I'm sure. But damn, you are some WHITE people !!! B

When you get the headers, yes, you can do with out the stock heat shields, but watch what they run near. If there is anything important you may want to reroute it or add heat shield material, body included... B

Hey GG, I know you used cutting board material ('regular' PE) but what thickness ?? B

Word to the wise, don't drink beer and nap in the evening or you will be up like I am !! Er, thanks for all the praise folks. I guess I shouldn't mention that I thought it was a bit rough hewn... Although for prototype work I'm satisfied; there was a bit of a learning curve learning how to work the material. Seems like I should start making some due to the posts, but I want to wait till I get some feed back from the test pilot... A place to work would be helpful also !! I'm considering going with 3/8 material for the front skid and/or 1/4 for the under side. 1/2 inch seems like overkill from working with it and it would be cheaper material wise/labor wise. Still, the jury is out till I get some feed back. Thanks for all the compliments ! Mr P. Yes, this material is slickery... 88. I can make you one, and white is cheapest (material wise) but may show torch scars more... I have no idea. White is 'cheap', black is 15% more, blue is the toughest and 35% more. Glenn. Your point is well made and is my biggest concern. Either the 6x1mm stock mounting bolts bend/shear, the PE disforms enough to allow the bolt to pull through, or (if there is a good washer on it) the material tears/cracks. My thoughts were to supply shouldered pilots for the bolt holes (expanding the force area and excluding washers while reinforcing the bolts to their shear strength), or a metal reinforcing sleeve for the entire mount area. I believe it would take a serious hit to damage the mounting points, only a fool (like me) runs at immovable objects !!! Time will tell, and thats why it is a prototype about to be sent out for abuse. Here is a link to the stats on the basic material. Unfortunately, I'm not an enginerd so some of it is lost on me... http://www.par-group.co.uk/plastics.aspx?page=566 Thanks for the input, don't be shy !! B

Well MM, with the parts I have made and are making for you... I have another blank and can show you what/how to do it. Show up early one day with lots of beer and we may get it mostly done before you pass out. You still have to pay for material though... Transworldmoto, yes, I believe it will stand against most anything. It's tough stuff, low grade used for cutting boards and the high grade I use is used for mining chutes and industrial conveyors. There is an article about someone using 3/8 material on a desert racer, and hitting hard enough to stop still. No real damage to the plate... We will see, my prototype will be sent out and be tested. Worst case scenario I can see it that the stock mounting bolts will need pilots or oversizing. I am confident otherwise. B

Good point Red ! Nice theory Slick, too bad his title says LE... B