Precise1

Ok, last shot... So what do you think ?? B

These last two are shots of it mounted on the truck for the final fitment. Note that the differential relief does not yet exist. This is when I determined there was about 1/2" interference so I put it in. That was actually helpful as it sits a bit higher now. Between the thickness of the plate and the required mounting blocks, about 1" of clearance to the front cradle/crossmember was lost, but I think it is worth it for the extra protection. Besides I prefer to have the lowest point up front; that way you are less likely to get 1/2 way past something, then start dragging !!

This a rear isometric view with the mounting blocks in place. You can see the bottle jack cap marks in the 2 reliefs... Well, sort of...

Here is a view of the plate from the underside, note the reliefs for clearance. The bottom right one was put in last and is for the front differential. This plate shields it entirely.

These are all the 'tools' I used other than a few more pieces of 2x4, some bricks and a deck. The foil wrapped thing is a stone mortar as in mortar and pestle and was used to form the round reliefs along with the bottle jack. The stainless square tube was to help clamp and form an even bend. The sheet metal was used to shield the wood deck so i wouldn't burn the friggin place down.

Well, after much work, fitment and thinking I messed up a few times, the first prototype of the UHMW Anti-static Polyethylene skid plate is finished, complete with stand off blocks and hardware. Now I just have to go back to all my bar napkin notes, attempt to decipher them, measure, reverse engineer, and draw what I have actually made. For a first effort, I'm very happy with it and if I had a decent place to work and made a few dies I could produce them fairly quickly and better. I'll probably do a write up on how to make them, but depending on if I decide to sell them, I may leave out dimensions and geometry. Sorry... This is the front skid plate for a WD21. I could make them for the entire underside; the front seems to be the hardest by far. Bear with the multiple posts for the pictures. I'll expand on the subject and move it to the 'How To' forum eventually. Ok, this is what I started out with, then bandsawed the profile. The primary bend has been done and the holes drilled for the front mount. It is 1/2 thick and I used the anti-static UHMW PE as it is black to match the trim on my maroon truck. Too bad I'm just shipping this one off to someone for true fitment and field testing ! B

Hehehe, congrats on the LSD !! Yeah, the trim levels get kind of mixed and matched. Might just be a stealership typo... Me 95XE seems to have the same exterior trim as yours other than the grill guard and bug deflector; it also has the LSD. Is you interior leather ? Mine is cloth. B Oops, I dont have a rear hitch...

Yep, I'd guess heatshield(s) but there is a small possibility that your exhaust is contacting somewhere; check around the cat and the heatshield there. Cant hurt to see if anything under the hood is loose either. B

Hmm, doesn't sound like those plug wires are very good or maybe even the right ones. Did you check the timing after replacing the cap and rotor ? It can make a bit of a difference... B

Um, yeah... I cleaned my starter when I pulled it to do the clutch. It took 1.5 cans of brake/electrical cleaner to start flushing almost clean !! It looked like a waste oil sump pump when I started. Anyone have a link for brushes or is that something common and easy to find ? I ask because I saw a new starter listed for $280 !! Yikes, I want a back up plan !! B

LMAO Dowser... Sorry you got stuck, but your discription had me laughing. Think maybe you are being just a little too agressive ? Yeah, shot bushings could be part of the squeak, but when is the last time you warshed under the beast and lubed things ? How many miles on it ? LOL 88 I can see you wrestling with the bastage... You don't carry a hacksaw ? B

LMAO at the legos for $222... I'll take the rockcrawlers 8x15" in black for $50 please... Sorry, my bad, I didn't test the link... :o Lets try this. http://www.nissanpartspro.com/cgi-bin/part...odel=PATHFINDER Ok, that seems to work, but you can't get a picture... B

From what my memory says, the square is stronger than tube for the same OD and wall thickness by a fair margin. Thats VS dents and bending. I can look it up if you like but I'm pretty sure thats the case. You making a show truck or something ?? B

For those who have everything they want and a spare $1500, put wing doors on your WD21 !! Kinda cool, but I rather put the $ towards SAS !! http://www.nissanpartspro.com/cgi-bin/part...&pf=sql&mv_arg= B

Red is basically correct on everything. I'd only point out that if you stay towards the narrow side of tire to rim size, the rim is somewhat better protected. While you can put 31x10.5" on 6" rims (the stock chromies) they are a bit pinched as thats the smallest rim you would want to mount them on. 7" work fine and 8" is about the biggest you want to go. Just extrapolate from there , ie. 9" or 10" max rims for 12.5" wide. That said, I believe 88 has 13.5" wide tires on 8.5" rims which is pushing it on the narrow side. Correct me if I'm wrong 88. B

Just remember that if you have manual hubs, engage them and drive in 2hi, the front cv, driveshaft will be spinning so you want to avoid cranking the steering all the way. Other than that, it's the way a lot of people run their trucks. As for the noise/vibration/something moving, have you eyeballed it yet ? B

First visually inspect, open, clean the MAF electrical connector. It is common for them to foul/corrode/etc. Don't spend the $150 yet... B

Most serious offroaders prefer the manual hubs... Stronger, simpler, more reliable and if you get stuck without being in 4x4, you can lock them in. The auto hubs have the convenience factor but you have to roll to lock them, they have been known to fail and I remember someone describing issues with backing down hills or something although I have not encountered that. It is a worthwhile investment to make your rig more robust. Also, I believe you can lock the hubs when you hit the trail but still drive with the transfer case in 4hi. The front driveshaft will rotate, but will not be engaged. B

I like it, good thinking !! Same here, I'd LOVE the AC condensor, mounting hardware and drivers side line all the way to the pump from the 95 if it is available !! B

As 88 implied, offset and backspacing are two different measurements. Knowing one and the width of the rim, you can calculate the other. Sometimes it is necessary to know both for proper fitment and clearance... B

Thats odd V6, it's not like you can open the rear window in the fly, and I believe it is generally ill advised to drive with it open as it is not that sturdy and only supported by the gas shocks. The back draft would still suck in exhaust anyhow even with the exhaust tip past the bumper... B

Sheesh, now pulling 1 bolt is 'effort'... I sent the email 8pm last wednesday, I have no idea why you didn't get it... I'll try it again later. B

Damn Bud, sorry to hear that !! Unfortunately, thats what some jackals do to 4x4's, thrash them... I don't know why the 4x4 light doesn't come on. Switch/sensor in the transfer case ? Transfer case blown ? You know that you have to roll forward to engage the auto hubs ? You should be able to hear them. They are manually actuated, no electronic switch... If they do not engage, the hubs may be broken. Many people like to switch to manual hubs for strength and reliability. Check to see if the front drive shaft rotates when the truck is in 4x4. Back left sag... How much ? Check the rear end linkage for bends, etc and spring to see if it is in its perches... I have no idea about the air vent, but I'm sure someone will chime in. There are a few people parting out trucks so you can probably get a replacement cheap... Good luck Bud, hope they catch the bastages... B

Looks cool is nice, but I'd prefer works well. Unfortunately, they often collide when they don't have endless $ to spend. Thats why my Pathy is stockish; saving $ and learning how to do the 'big picture'... B

Just pull one of the rear ones (the ones in question) and measure it, both pitch and length, do the same with the one in the kit and plug it all into your fancy schmancy calculator. That'll answer your question for certain... It's gotta come out anyhow so it's not like it is any 'extra' work. Sheesh, I thought you were an enginerd or something !! B