Precise1

Blimey mate, you got me chuckling... Sorry that its still an issue though. I've never been 'down' that long, but even 6 weeks was enough to make me have the 1000 yard stare with occasional bouts of homicide. All I can say is good luck and be well, hope you are up and able soon. Email me if you want to argue about anything, I bet I can give you a run. I have too much damn time myself... Let me see if I can reply... I doubt thats new. Damn ! Eat your vegies... Duck !! Nah, I mean it. Be well M8 B

The fact that you are back to 'stock' height by cranking the T-bars but still bottoming out when hitting bumps makes me think is it the shocks and/or the T-bars themselves. It sounds like the front suspension is very weak. The T-bars could be fatigued, and the shocks could be shot. How many miles/what year is the truck ? If the shocks are old, remove 1 and give it the old 'push pull' it you can manage it reasonably, it's probably shot. If they are gas charged and do not extend firmly when free, they are shot. Replace those first if thats the case, then see what happens. T-bars may need replacement also if you insist on the stock height, but wait and see. 31" tires were stock on some Pathys and should fit fine; I have them on my 95 and they had no clearance/rub issues even before I jacked things up a bit. Let us know what you find. B

Well, 3 issues with flywheels are... 1) Cracking. Generally rare, but can be an issue. Usually caused by crappy metal, and/or excessive heat either from poor clutch use or slippage (due to glazing or weak pressure plate). Thermal differential in the fly wheel can cause surface cracks which will only grow with time and/or abuse. These flywheels are usually not reconditioned for sale or accepted as cores. Use something like prussian blue; wipe it over the surface, then wipe off. Any real cracks should show. 2) Scoring. Main cause is the clutch plate being worn far enough for the rivets to contact the flywheel. The longer it happens the deeper scoring. This can usually be repaired by resurfacing (just face turning) the fly wheel. Just like brake rotors and drums, if it is scored, the new friction pad will seat to it quickly, but reduce effective life. Considering the work involed to pull these trannys, if the flywheel is noticably scored, it needs resurfacing or replacing. 3) Glazing. Happens over time regardless, but excessive glazing is caused by significant friction pad slippage, either from poor clutch use or weak pressure plate. It causes poor clutch engaging causing poor feel or chatter as it sticks/releases. Can be fixed by sanding with fine grit (320 or finer) sand paper, and or cross sanding after with rough grit sand paper. This will help seat the new friction pad. Ok, sorry for the over kill, but i just tried to make it a inclusive description that some may learn from. I'd say that if you have no real scoring and just glazing, sand it down with fine SP, then cross hatch it with rough SP. That should be just fine. Make sure to clean the FW well with brake cleaner though !! When I replaced my clutch system, I noticed the TOB was barking a lot. Then I tested the clutch by shifting hard at 4500rpm on an uphill freeway on ramp. Sure enough, 3rd and 4th had definite slip so I ordered OEM clutch parts. They were original and this was 10 years and 110k miles later. The TOB was wasted !!! Not siezed, but so rough I was amazed. The pressure plate was weak enough that only the outer 1/2 of the clutch plate was fully contacting the fly wheel and the fingers contacting the TOB had a groove worn in them. This made the clutch wear unevenly and faster. It was worn down so the outermost rivets were just contacting the fly wheel. The flywheel was some what glazed, and had a .004" score from the rivets. Machine shops wanted $50 to resurface and I was able to buy a reconditioned fly wheel with a new ring gear for $65 (plus core) at NAPA, so that was a no brainer in my book. I replaced everything, including the TOB carrier and retaining clip for about $200. The TOB still barks the first few shifts, I have NO idea why !! Sorry for the ramble vidro, does that answer your question ? B

Thats 'cause they are american cars, they might not start if you turn them off... Actually, I understand about the off and on thing, but it's not THAT bad. Depends how often I guess. Compression braking puts a load (=strain) on the engine, but in the opposite direction, the drive train included. To me that means wear/slop both directions rather then mainly 1. While I will let the motor wind down sometimes, I prefer to use the brakes and rarely downshift to compression brake. Maybe I'm just being screwy, but thats way way I see it. B

Ok, how about an update here ??? 88, what is your find so far ??? 98sp, what did you average on your trip ?? Testers please report !! B

Other that the battery and starter use, warm starts don't hurt the truck, it's the cold starts that do the most wear. When they sold Pathfinders, they didn't have a sticker on them "for highway use only"... Most of the Pathys around here spend a lot of time in city and traffic; not seen one broken down yet. Just drive mellow. If you have a stick, try driving 1/2 a block, then slipping it into neutral and coasting the rest of the way while idling if there is a stop ahead. Brakes are the cheapest/easiest to replace and it seems to help slightly with the milage. B

I think most people have tried to be helpful after trying to warn you off (maybe just to see if you are serious). You have the truck in front of you and can tell whats up... No need for convincing here. Keep the questions coming and we'll try to answer. We are all learning something. Good luck. B

Hmm, seeing as how you have replaced almost everything recently, I'm not sure... I doubt its the T-bars, they should have tremendous preload, but cant hurt to check the 3 bolts for the front socket. B

I don't know about the tensioner... My pathy has 115k on it and the T-belt had just been changed. I've heard that some T-belts come with alignment marks which are quite helpful. I believe people recommend replacing the cam seals and thermostat while you are there also. Here we go again, eh ? Smart move on doing the clutch... Is the flywheel scored ?? You can save time and $ right there if not, just give it a light scuffing with sandpaper. B

You can lead a horse to water... Seriously, try READING the links and then deciding what you plan to do. Save your $ when you can, if only to get more goodies. Things like winch bumpers start getting pricy... B

Hahaha, pretty amusing !! B

I'm sure that would be worth checking out if one was in the area. I had to laugh though... "driving over the curb - the back side of the curb. The black K-9 Search and Rescue H-1 simply approached the 90-degree angle, gripped the flat surface with its bulky tires, and launched itself over the top with little effort on behalf of the driver." Glad he was able to handle a curb... There is mall rated, and now, officially, curb rated. *snicker* B

No worries about the two different posts. I can see why you split them. Thats fine as long as you dont do a whole bunch like that at the same time. You can obviously just put out a general cry for help and list items, but I know that they tend to polarise. Thats why it's no biggie when in moderation. B

*yawn* How about you let us know when you HAVE the goods... How you been doing anyway ? Back OK ? Healing well ? Wife not hitting you with pans ? Let us know, some care... B

Nice story Bud !! Thanks ! Stop picking up hitch hitch hikers !!! Ever think the poor bastages were just trying to get away from your driving ?? Good luck with the snap traps... they work the best. The peanut butter with some dog/cat food pressed into it and a little bit of salt. Trust me, I've become somewhat of an expert in killing mice and rats in the last few years. LMAO at the stories.... Sitting at my desk when I hear a distinct keening. Follow the noise and it is outside in the storage area. A rat is 1/2 smooshed in a trap, but can still breathe and making a lot of noise. Poor thing, I'd better shoot it. Word to the wise, a .20 cal 1000 FPS pellet rifle is overkill for rats. Kinda like a .50BMG for people. I shoot the rat, the whole assembly jumps and flips over, and there is a neat hole in the wall plank. I wonder if the neighbor ever figured out what took that chunk of stucco out of his house ? How about when a rat trips a mouse trap and runs off with it (and a broken leg), only to find that the trap cant fit through the hidey hole. Then it just pulls and screams, pulls and screams until it wakes you up. You find the trap and go to retrieve it making the rat scream LOUD. (believe me, rats can scream) So then you have to load the pellet rifle, aim it through the floor of the cabinet where the rat SHOULD be, and fire. Rat screams louder. Go get another pellet, try again... Down to muffled whimpers. Load again, fire, silence. I'll deal with the corpse in the morning. One morning I get up and go into the bathroom. There is a rat in the bath tub ! He runs down the drain, so I turn the HOT on high and let it run for about 5 minutes. Got to work, come home. There is a rat in the bathtub ! But now he is 1/2 hairless, swollen feet, face and eyes, lying on his side wheezing. Poor thing must have been like that all day. Better shoot him. A porcelain covered metal free standing tub makes a great backstop. Talk about expansion, that .20 pellet went to.40 !! One morning I get up and go into the kitchen. There is a mouse sitting in a frying pan on the stove. I grab the pan, do the pancake flip and my best tennis serve. Pa-ting, one dead mouse.... I won't bore you any more, lets just say I have killed more than I can count and in as many ways as were available. Get creative Bud !! B

Dont you think you are being a bit critical ??? JK You make some very valid points. In an earlier thread people basically said the same thing without as much detail. I know of no one who has converted a 2x4 Pathy into a 4x4 while keeping it 'stock', but then I'm not an expert. Considering Steev-o is still in research mode, I figure he'll come across these issues 1 at a time and incorporate them into a final decision. Sometimes people have to teach themselves. Thanks for the good post. B

Hehehe... Nice truck !! B

I understand vidro... I have the same 'do it all right once' mentality, BUT when I did my clutch 1 year 6k miles ago, I didn't consider the rear main seal (yeah, not bright). It wasn't/isn't leaking, but might bite me in the ass down the road.... I measured the pilot bearing, and the ID was the same as the new one (within .001") so I left it in. I cant believe it would compress more than a few thou being installed so I didn't see the point. I was also running out of time in a borrowed garage. The good thing is if you just use old parts and have to go back in a year or 3 from now, it'll be a snap... If you decide to replace things, I can send you the pilot bushing and clutch alignment tool if that helps any... More of a gesture I guess. Let me know if you want them. B

Ok grego, no problem, thats easily done... Read these first http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=18 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5599 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325 I couldn't find the torsion bar indexing information here, but these are good links http://www.geocities.com/pathfinderoffroad/techtbarlift.html http://wd21forums.damagedreality.com/phpbb...wtopic.php?t=98 You mau also want to consider aftermarket UCAs (upper control arms) but since you want a modest lift, you can get by without. I have the T-bars indexed and JGC springs in the rear. Along with new shocks, I'm quite happy. Read up and post any questions you might have. B

Err, maybe ??? With out a bit of body lift you could probably drive straight... I'm thinking not comfortably, you could wind up ripping your flares off, maybe eating the wheel well. Do you have a lift installed ? Do you run 31' now ? I know someone is running 32" but I can't remember if they have a BL. B

It does this when you are driving straight ?? All the time ? Dependent on bumps ? Any particular speed ? More on one side then the other ? Does it increase with wheel revolution speed ? Are you certain it is in the front ? B

*no comment* B

Thats a tough one... It's hard to make a judgement call without seeing the parts. Considering your monetary position, put it together with the old parts knowing that you'll have to pull the tranny again in a while (milage may vary). Consider it testing out your work. If you were to just replace some parts, I'd change the clutch disk and the TO bearing, but I suggest waiting until you can also replace the pressure plate at least. B

Ahahahaha !!! I payed $150 for my 8" digitals 9 years ago !!! http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products...?categoryID=517 Here is the general listing http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/search.c...chTerm=calipers Cheap http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products...?categoryID=877 Cheap http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products...?categoryID=880 Cheap http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products...categoryID=5258 Cheap http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products...categoryID=4265 Cheapest http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products...categoryID=2227 Nice Swiss ones (come in metric, but I could find you cheepo's that also do) http://www.penntoolco.com/catalog/products...?categoryID=660 Any good hardware store should have some for about $20 or less... Look by the rulers. The last set is the lowest price you will find, but remember, you get what you pay for ! B

Good luck, let us know what you find... B