Precise1

Nice stuff!! More than I need and more than I can justify spending, but I'm sure the hard core wheelers will be all over it... B

Hooha centerlink (grassroots4x4.com). Start there and consider an idler arm brace, then do the tie rod ends, ball joints and appropriate bushings. Good to go!! Oh, probably a steering stabilizer too... B

Oh, I will, trust me... B

Thanks Red, I read those already which was why I pulled the lock assembly. This was purchased as a preowned, certified Toyota with a brief warranty and I don't think it will be covered. Rock auto has the replacement lock cylinder for $60 so I may just get that and be done with it... B

I tried every combination of anything I could think of and nothing changed. Yes, the car starts, drives and acts normally in all other ways and it is a regular straight key... Thanks Dave, I pulled the ignition/tumbler assembly and the key is still stuck in it, so it's not something else; it's definitely the tumblers. A locksmith is my first stop tomorrow if I can't figure out how to disassemble the unit myself tonight without damaging it. It has a cap on the key end with 2 dowel pins holding it in place and a C clip on the opposite end securing the barrel. Looks like they made this so it can't be easily disassembled, but I'm a machinist with a mill in my garage so it's hard to keep me out... Good point about not being able to pull the key 1/2 way out, that's what confused me the most. I've considered going into locksmithing so this is actually informative experience, but not when I need the car for vacation soon... Thanks everyone for your input, I appreciate it. Feel free to continue contributing as it is all good info. B

Good call. I tried starting, etc already but I just checked for the steering wheel lock (didn't notice when I was fiddling earlier) and there is none. It shouldn't lock until the key is fully retracted, but perhaps that isn't lining up or broken. The key is still stuck and 3 possibilities now... *sigh* B

The GF just came home and can't get the ignition key out of the cylinder. It withdraws 2/3-3/4 of the way then stops. There is plenty of side to side (across the blade direction) motion; I can move it in at least a 30 degree arc that way and there is some lateral play also but nothing out of the norm. I've messed with it for 10 minutes, played with the shifter position (auto tranny), blown the tumbler cylinder out with compressed air, worked the key back and forth, in and out, etc and there has been 0 change. It resists removal with an estimated 20-25 lbs pull. I can't see anything with a flashlight... My two thoughts are that some tumblers are stuck/can't be retracted or something with the shifter linkage not disengaging the ignition lock completely. Any experiences or ideas?? I'm going to google before I start pulling the steering column apart.. Thanks. B

I know... Interesting, but IIRC, it would be considerably harder to do well... B

Since it is so intermittent, I would go with electrical problem. Is there any rhyme or reason to it dying? Temperature, humidity, driving distance/time, etc? Seriously... Check the ECU codes (write up in the How To section) first... Wiggle the wires to the MAF (just behind the air box) next time it acts up. Inspect the distributor cap/rotor/wires. B

Never heard of that before, but hey, as long as she runs well. Congrats on the eaasy 'fix'!! Yeah, that's a bit of a mystery. I don't know how many times I myself have reminded people of that, much less how many times others have... B

There are several people parting out trucks right now, look in the for sale section!! I still need mine to keep the truck mobile, sorry. B

Good point... B

Not that I have heard. Why would you want to?? B

You are almost exactly .025 off, sounds like operator error... Use calipers. It's the length as much as the diameter, they should work fine... B

All to common, expecially in the salt belt. I'm planning to replace mine in a month or so when I rebuild/upgrade the front end... B

Sounds like you have everything you need to wait for someone to save you and not so much for you to save yourself... B

A warped rotor generally won't make things shake unless you are braking. I'm thinking more like wheel bearings, tie rod ends, ball joints or something. Jack it up and see if anything is loose or obviously wrong. It could be as simple as a wheel out of balance or alignment needed... B

I would use a sub plate also, not just washers... B

X2 It might be easier if you remove the top steering column cover but be careful, the screw mount points are not robust. B

I've never messed with them, but here is good info from an X-nissan mechanic... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19755 B

I ran BGF AT in 31x10.5" on 15x6" rims for 4 years. The stated rim size requirements for the tire were 7-9" wide. My rims were 1" narrow. I certainly noticed the difference. If the rims were 6.5" wide (.5" narrow) would I have noticed the same thing to a lesser degree? I'd bet on it. I will put my next set of 10.5" wide tires on 8" wide rims. Damn, that seems like the same width deviation as what I recommend.... Hmmm... He asked for experience and I gave it. Put your 12.5" tires on 8" rims for years and get back to me, eh? Yes, I spend my time here posting answers in hopes of nefariously misleading the ignorant. B

Well, it is 1/2" out of spec, not into spec. Yes, it will make a difference. How much, I can't say (I doubt anything drastic) but it might affect tread life and handling/side wall rigidity some. Yes, you can mount them, but I suspect better perfomance with a larger rim. Where is Tex, he worked at a tire shop and would have good input... Let me go holler at him. B

WD-40 the trailing arm bushings (at the pivot points) one at a time to check which one it might be. B

Yeah, I hope so!! $1k and a week or two a year for trannys would be rediculous... Good luck. B

Same here... B