Precise1

I have a magna flow cat back on the old 95 and liked it. It growled a litle, but not even remotely annoying. It will be transferred to the new 95 along with a magnaflow cat and Thorley headers. We'll see how loud it is then... B

Thanks for that valuable, first hand information!! As a reward, I shall grant you your wish... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=999 I have not yet, but plan to install an inline filter and temp gauge as you did so it will make a good comparison. I am paranoid about frying the tranny so I'll do everything I can think of to prevent it. BTW, where was your cooler mounted? B

Have you tried tightening them a little?? It's not unusual for them to loosen up a little over time... Torque is something like 8-10 ft/lbs (not much) B

I thought the black had better oil resistance?? Maybe I have it crossed... B

Well, the local American Tire Store is ordering my tires with a 1-3 day wait but advised me not to have them mounted until Monday, the first day of a $70 rebate. LOL, ok!! 5 tires mounted, ballanced, everything included with lifetime ballance, rotation and repair for $940. I'm cool with that!! Damn, I have a lot of work to do in the next couple of weeks!! B

Wow, definitely do not go back to that shop and warn others about them!! It should not be unsafe to drive with the torn boot, it will just degrade much faster; I see there is already some rust... Do this: jack up that side or the entire front and see if that ball joint shifts or drops; that will tell you if it is damaged. Assuming not, use a crow bar or something and pry by the LCA to see if you can get any movement out of the ball joint. If there is a little, it is worn and if there is a lot, it is shot. I will guess you will not be able to see or generate any movement and if this is the case, grease the BJ well via the zerk and maybe dab some into the tear just to cover the metal and it should be ok to drive for a while but you probably want to save for a replacement and use the time to ask around for a reliable repair shop. How does it handle and steer right now? Does it feel fine? Oh, wheeling will damage it much faster than street driving. B

Yeah, check battery connections, at the terminals and ground to the chassis etc, fusable links, basically any wires/fuses/relays/modules that have to do with power and ignition. Obviously try the easy stuff first... B

I'm guessing you either has the T-bars cranked higher last time, or the bump stops are lower on these arms. Did you check for that? B

Yes, I'm pretty sure that is the issue and I doubt it, but you will see that when you remove the adjustment bolt/nut/arm prior to removing the torsion bars. Either way the answer is live with it, pull them 1/2 way off and find the problem or pull them all the way and re-index them. It is a good idea to put some oil on the adjustment bolt threads. B

Yep, it sounds like you are one spline off. Be sure to clock them before you remove them. B

PSA I just ordered through Rocky Road outfitters and had Steve the sales rep call Thorley to see how long of a wait it would be. Answer is "they have a few in stock"!! They will show up at my door for $400... Often one has to wait extended periods of time until another run of headers is made, so if you want some soon, better buy them up before the 'few' are gone. Oh, these are the nickel-chrome coated units. B

Holy crap k9, a chisel wouldn't do anything!! I won't argue that, I just hope Kit's engine isn't in that shape... " B

Yep, use a 5 minute flush. ATF will help, but the actual flush product is just a few dollars... B

Exactly!! B

Yep, they are a pain, but also not a 'normal' repair. B

*sigh* That link is for a Nissan dealer. OEM parts... It has the lines on it... $34 or something. Nissan parts, cheap price, knowledgable contact. It doesn't get better than that unless it is free. B

If only this had already been answered... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=426267 B

LOL, in a WD21 the seats are mounted by 2 bolts. Quick release is convenient, but 2 bolts (4 total) is a PITA?? B

For just th bars and stuff, not really but if you throw in the battery, all the sensors, alternator, starter, CVs, etc then yes, it would be worth it. B

Hey BS (LOL, I like that acronym), remember, you are not required to change anything other than the timing belt and at least check the tensioner. If the seals are not leaking, you do not have to change them. I bought everything, just in case and I believe my crank seal is weeping slightly so I figure I have to change it... Do not be afraid, proceed with confidence. Give yourself some breathing room first though. Dr Bill, you got your parts from courtesyparts.com and I got mine from WWW.FACTORYNISSANPARTS.COM, a member here who runs the online parts dept at a dealership in Texas. Rob is a great guy and I placed my order by phone. Everything in the CP kit minus the belts but plus the bypass and extension hoses + idler arm bushings and O rings for a rebuild cost $230+ shipping. Rob seems to be 10% less than CP and knows exactly what he is talking about. Please consider him a resource in the future, you won't be sorry... B

It isn't anywhere near where your head would be normally and I find that the WD21s have plenty of head room unless you are 7 feet tall with 2 foot long legs... B

Ok, that all makes sense to me (I have been following all this closely, my timing belt and entourage will show up next week). Damn. I suspect not, I think you have learned something (the hard way), but I understand your reluctance... Um that would be a big yes!! I'll see if I can find it later/tomorrow. To try to determine what seal is leaking, start the truck and let it run until you have a consistent leak. Shut it off and see how long the leak is consistent. If it shuts down almost immediately, it is the crank seal, if it keeps leaking then tapers down consistently it is a cam seal. Reason being, the cam seal leak has a lot longer to travel before it drips and the leak will 'run down' once it is not under pressure. The crank seal leak should leak consistently and then stop almost immediately, correct? I've chased coolant leaks the same way... Consider that with another beer and cigar. Then enjoy the evening. Maybe look at it tomorrow. Not that you have nothing to do, but this can sit for a few days, no? B

I'll have to say, I'm about as motivated on making something like this as I am installing my suspension lift and tires. I have the idea of using the headliner material out of my parts pathy for the finish so the frame/body can be cobbed together. I don't think I would have thought of this, thanks a LOT for starting the thread and if/when I get going on this, I'll do a full write up!! B

I usually don't take this approach, but please search for this information. There are literally dozens of threads covering many type of intakes/filters from 'home made' $30 units to $400 snorkel systems. Feel free to ask questions about what you find and if you have trouble with the search function (it's finicky, hint use advanced search) let me know and I will help you. B

My guess is that the bushings are shot (not uncommon). It doesn't damage the sway bar much per se but reduces it's effectiveness and may make noise sometimes. B