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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Sorry, the cat did not come with the headers. It is a California legal Magnaflow performance cat, I picked it up for $135 and free shipping from http://www.performancepeddler.com. They had the best price I could find (you have to request a quote) and I got exactly what I wanted. I can take better pictures of the Thorleys if you want... This is what I heard and didn't want to deal with it. I only want to install the headers once... I only replaced the tach in my new pathy, the old one has had a dead speedo for 3 years, but the odo kept working. Can you disassemble the speedo to remove the odo portion? I never looked at that. I'm sure someone who knows will chime in soon... B
  2. I just got these last week for $406 delivered, Nickel Chrome Thorleys. Rocky Road Outfitters had them drop shipped to me and Thorley had some in stock; often there is a wait until they run another batch so if you order, have them check for availability. I haven't seen the Pace Setters, but the Thorleys are considered better made if not better designed. I figured for the extra $100 or whatever, I'd go with the Thorleys... If tightening the screws didn't help odds are the unit is bad (if both were bad, it might have been the voltage regulator). I recommend grabbing one off of the next pathfinder that comes onto the lot. Oh, you need it from a 94 or 95... B
  3. So, looking at this, I wonder if the PO screwed up installing the TB?? It looks like it is one tooth off? No, I have not counted them yet but will tomorrow; I didn't see this until I loaded the photos... The belt looks fine and still has good tension so I doubt it jumped one tooth... The truck runs fine, but seems a bit gutless compared to my old manual 95. Just figured I'd post as it seemed odd to me that the marks don't really line up. B
  4. Make sure to change everything in the bell housing, ie. throw out bearing, retaining spring, pressure plate, etc and when you pull the fly wheel, take a good look at the rear main seal and consider replacing that. If it leaks, you'll be pulling everything apart again... Feel free to take pictures and do a write up on this... B
  5. Here is the other picture... Don't worry, it is fine... I am sorry for the accident, it looks severe!! I can not imagine the Nissan can be repaired, but maybe you can buy another and have the old one for parts?? My real concern is for you and the people involved, that was not a minor collision!! Metal can be replaced, but flesh not so easily. I hope everyone is ok and keep us posted, we do care... I believe there was a 2 door that was kept in impound for years in a south american country, perhaps you could get it?? B I have to ask, how fast was that car going!!! It's not easy to do that much damage and slide a pathfinder/terrano sideways like that. I hope the other driver is ok too...
  6. Great!! I'm glad it was that easy, for both of us!!! B
  7. Mine was a royal PITA, but I didn't have a crows foot wrench, that probably would have made the job 10x easier... B
  8. Sounds about right. It'll cost you the price of the seal+inconvenience if you can/do it yourself... B
  9. Gebus!!! Is that what the underside of your truck looks like?!? *stays away from salt states for life!!* B
  10. Yes, I do know they are not easy to puncture, it would be more of a fluke thing although it would be a whole lot easier to damage the line... One of my thoughts was an accident that damaged that area; accidents are bad enough, but when you can't drive off due to oil spraying everywhere, that would really piss me off!!. Yeah these are all slim chance items and I'm probably not being rational, it just makes me nervous. That said, it's your truck, feel free to tell us how long you haven't had any problems... I believe JJ_Big_Shoe also has his filter down there, but I can't remember who else right now. I will probably move mine there from under the hood also when I install the headers... B
  11. Precise1

    No start

    So, you want to do that since you are probably the #1 single source of text/contributor?? I'll pin it for you... B Oh, Needalife, follow k9sar's steps. He is guiding you well... And always thanks to JJ for the foot work and sound effects...
  12. Secretly the #1 use for SAS... B
  13. You might also find this useful... http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/nocatrails...o_4Wheeling.htm B
  14. I think it is from the concept that oil doesn't break down, it just gets dirty so the more filter, the better. The 2 problems are that the filters only filter down to a certain size and no smaller, so the smaller bits will still be there if you added 100 filters, and that the gas/exhaust blow by change the PH of the oil and it's chenistry some, and the filter has no effect on this. I put in the relocation kit and run the fram PH8A size filter. This one is much larger than the stock filter, and by estimate probably have twice the filtration surface, so it is like I'm running 2 stock filters. This is plenty for me as I run synthetic/dino blend and change it every 3000 miles. Personally, I don't see any need for 2 filters... B
  15. Perhaps I misunderstand, but I don't think a SAS is much of a benefit for duning... That said, hey, if you want to do it, go for it!! It's your truck... B
  16. Yes, sorry... Is it something like 16 megs and has many different folders, one labeled "AT"?? Yes, that is the Factory Service Manual. Let me supply the link just to make sure... http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?s=&amp...st&p=431027 Let me know if that doesn't work... B
  17. He is running A/T tires so that is unlikely... Seriously though, I said the same when another member placed his there. Perhaps there has been no trouble yet, but to me that is too exposed for comfort... B
  18. No worries, I didn't realize you had... This is why I said "If the O2 sensor isn't rusted in place". I hate exhaust work due to the rust corrosion that is inevitable. Sorry, I need to get my butt in gear with the part out thread, ther's just so much to do right now... B
  19. Fair enough, I just went down the ideal trouble shooting/process list. If it isn't feasible... The torch 'cleaning' is plagerized (from 88pathoffroad I believe), but how much of info isn't?? I haven't done it myself, so let us know what you achieve. Good luck... B
  20. You can get a Nissan dealership parts from Rob Lacy (aka Alkorahil). The water pump will go for about for about $100 IIRC. Look in the Classifieds/Services section for the contact info. I can not stress using him enough; good prices, great quality and service!!! B
  21. Proper idle is 750-800 rpm. If it is a manual, it is probably ok, if you have an automagic tranny I'd recommend fixing it. (I'd fix it regardless) B
  22. If the O2 sensor isn't rusted in place, go ahead and pull it. 'clean' it by getting it very hot with a torch. While it cools, pull the other O2 and install it in the first bank. Next install the 'cleaned' O2 sensor in the other bank. If the problem goes away, you cleaned the O2 sensor sufficiently. If the problem switches to the other bank, replace the O2. If the problem stays put, you have an issue with wiring, cat, injectors, etc but you at least know what side to look at/swap out. B
  23. Follow the AT troubleshooting guide for in the FSM? There is a link at the top of the Garage section for downloading it... B
  24. Buy a waterpump and plan to change it at your convenience, not when the truck dictates. B
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