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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. No, it isn't Nunya, but it is wholely applicable so thanks for that! The one I'm thinking is a bit older, kinda like me. I'm about to go to sleep so maybe tomorrow... B
  2. The left hand spiral ID sockets work on any hex/square head (I have a set) and should work fine on a locking lug nut IF it has a hex OD, which most don't. Gator grips (I have 1) need the same thing, a hex or square OD to grip. No, what you typed was funny. I happen to like Pesto and was impressed... B
  3. Agreed with JJ, but I thought you always bled farthest , then next closest to the source, ie brakes. Either way, yes, it needs bleeding also... B
  4. There was a thread a while back specifically about surging/stumbling uphill on the freeway a while back. If your efforts didn't fix it, I'll try to find it... PS Make sure to display the year of your rig, not just XE... B
  5. Yeah, no sweat Bud. I have mine installed sideways, bottom in/top out so it is self purging. Read this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23072 A picture of mine is in there... And the Timing Belt/Radiator Cooler is a helpful read (in the WD21 90-95 section)
  6. Like OSR said, but I bet it would be cheaper than buying new and a cleanly cut exhaust pipe can be welded no problem. Paying for the install and possible (broken) stud replacement is what would cost in this scenario... B
  7. Have you tried tightening the oil pan bolts? The torque is light (something like 8-12 ft/lbs or something), I'l have to look it up for you. My auto tranny pan was weeping when I bought it, spent 10 minutes with a 1/4" drive 10mm socket and problem solved. B
  8. You made pasta with a 1/2 cheater bar?? B
  9. Sounds like you have some weasely democratic varmints lurking in the tall grass who sneak in at night and randomly loosen bolts. I recommend napalm... B
  10. I'm afraid there is not enough information for a cut and dry answer, as what was said before. How you drive, how hot, how much elevation, what speed, how long, etc... Some people run the stock cooler for 200k miles and have no issue and some don't. When adding an aftermarket cooler, get the highest rating possible that you can fit. 18k lb seems to be the 'smallest' recommended up to 24k+ if possible. About the filter, I would question what filtration size and what flow rate it achieves. I am currently running an 18k lbs cooler (I believe) that bypasses the stock cooler (even though I have an after market radiator) and have no issues, but I havn't done much traveling in it yet. I plan to install a filter and temp gauge soon but that doesn't help you now. Yes, in front of all the other coolers (radiator and condensor) is the best place to put it, unless you clog it with mud... B
  11. I didn't think Derek used glue and zip ties... Looks good!! B
  12. They all will work and have their own pros and cons, from cost and ease of install to durability. The really important aspect is that whatever you decide to use, you do it well and thoughtfully, as jadm4x4 indicated. B
  13. That is what I understand, yes... Oh, Stella FTW!! B
  14. Sweeet!! Let me start by saying thank you very much for taking the time to go get the truck and the time some of you will spend working on it. You locals have been extremely important to the whole project and continue to be, it wouldn't have happened with out you!! Hats off to Scott for all his time, leg work and fund collections, Derek for arranging the tow and providing a place for it, Steve for his efforts and good work with the sticker portion of the fund raiser and all the others that have spent time, effort and $ to make this happen. Here's to you all!! My only regret is that I am not close enough to help hands on, but I do have a parts truck and will provide whatever I can to get MrJim back on the road. Jim, congrats and you are welcome. The only obligations you have are to enjoy your old friend with health and happiness... It's a good day... B
  15. I'll see if I can find something in the FSM later, it's on a different computer... Yeah, that doesn't look right DrBill. B
  16. Good, just keep at it... Yes, they are. Sorry if I said bolts, next time I'll say "fasteners"... B
  17. Exactly!! I have 2 95 frames with minimal surface rust only, and that is because both trucks came from back east... Not just the climate but the fact that some people soak them in salt and then let them sit for a few months a year like that. If you live in the salt belt and you don't take steps to protect the underside of your vehicle (undercoating, etc) and then get upset because it corrodes, the only thing I can say to you is "Duh!!". B
  18. SWEET!! Better put a spare tire on the to do list... B
  19. What a stupid lawsuit. The government said that it passed all required standards (from safety features to emmisions)!! Someone hit her hard enough to tear off a wheel and shoved it through the floor board (and exhaust I might add). So it's Nissan's fault?? This happens how often?? OMG WTF?? Sheit happens lady!! Sue the people that hit you or caused of the accident... I'm too irritated to continue coherently. B
  20. Check out http://www.factorynissanparts.com!! Rob Lacy!! Alkorahil!! B
  21. I can't wait to hear what goes wrong with the shop vac idea... It's a sound theory, but so is siphoning gas with one... Yes. I'd stick to following the direction first time around. You can always get more creative/aggressive later. I've found that Permatex makes good products and that they always do what they claim... B
  22. I just bought a set of Thorleys (better build quality than pacesetters it is said) for my 95 from Rocky Road Outfitters, they by far have the best price, $360 before tax and shipping. Headers will increase power, throttle response, exhaust note and milage if you keep your foot out of it... B
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