Precise1

Sounds like you have a valve guide/body or piston ring problem. A quart of oil a week is a lot!!!! It sounds like someone needs to look at the top end. Can you do a compression test?? B

Here is a little compilation about exactly the same thing... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20670 As 87pathy said, rust on the frame, especially the rear and under the seats. Bring a hammer and use it... Unless there is documentation, plan to change the timing belt and maybe some other items under it. If it is an auto tranny, check the fluid and consider an aftermarket cooler and tranny flush. Anyway, that link should cover 95% of things... B

Yeah, the 'yuck' took a bit longer than anticipated... Sorry, I forgot, I'll TRY to remember to take some pictures of the console tomorrow... B

First, try to trouble shoot the tranny according to the outline in the downloadable factory service manual rather than adding ATF and hoping. Second, if it is toast, try to source another AT or find the parts to switch to manual. $4k is a lot to walk away from... B

Tow dolly/flatbed , put it in a garage, chisel the VIN, etc. Who is going to complain?? "Officer, quick, someone stole my clunker. No it didn't run..." B

I'd argue that in current times and circumstances, you shouldn't have to pay more than $3500 for a good, low milage pathy. Good point, even if you plan to wheel it, it's good if the PO didn't... Good luck Bud, just be patient. B

Steal it... B

I thought I'd share some things I learned on my timing belt adventure. I'll add more as I finish up... 1) I decided to remove the spark plugs (and replace them at the same time) and always thought they should be tight, not barely snug... 2) If you are replacing your seals, take a suitable tool (punch, drift pin, etc) and tap the old seals in a little first (.02-.05") just to break them lose. It will make pulling them out 10X easier. The first one took me 15 minutes to figure out, the second took 2 minutes... 3) A standard 36mm socket is what I had and used for the cam seals, it worked perfect... I made a plastic sleeve for the front crank seal install and tapped it in with an extension, walking around it. Be careful when tapping the seals in, it takes very little force so don't drive them in too far! If you do, odds are you will ruin it getting it out. 4) The 27mm socket with a breaker bar resting on the steering box/bumper bracket mount, removing the coil wire and bumping the starter for 1/2 of a second worked beautifully to loosen the crank bolt. 5) Make sure you have everything you need first. I thought I did, but wound up going to get hose clamps, new radiator hoses, bolts for the puller and a new fan clutch as an afterthought just so everything is new... 6) Expect to spend just as much time cleaning, scraping, caulking and setting the timing belt tension (took me 4 tries before I was satisfied) as you do on the disassembly/reassembly. I haven't figured out how to torque the crank bolt back to the 96ft/lbs recommended though. I have an electric impact gun but it is WAY too long to fit in there. I just bought a compressor, so I may have to go to HF and buy an air gun just for this job... Like I said, I'll chime in with anything else I remember or run across. B

I don't think so. The tensioner spring almost seems useless to me. You adjust the position with an allen wrench in the hex hole and you lock it all in place with the main nut. There is no way that spring will overcome the 32-43lbs torque on it, so what good is it?? B

No worries. Just like engine oil, when in doubt, fill with fresh fluid (make sure there is a magnetic drain plug) and run for a few weeks. Drain, and refill. Drive for recommended interval unless you spend a lot of time underwater and do not have the breather hoses properly hooked up... B

I'd say that the 75w90 is fine, most people use it for their entire vehicle life (wheeling, towing, commuting...) and I have only heard of a few tranny/rear end failures. Add some Lucas oil stabilizer for peace of mind and all will be well as long as you change it out per recommendation. If you have a WD21, make sure to 'overfill' to 5.1 liters as per the TSB pinned in the garage section... I suppose you could go with 75w140 if you lived in warmer climes. B

Dude!! You made your GF walk through that muck?? She could have driven... You have not even begun to test the limits!! Feels good, don't it?? B

Smart man, the less years and miles, the less wear and tear. Focus on the 94 and 95 is my advice, the 105k timing belt interval is worth it in my book... Also, if you are lucky, you can find one for quick sale that someone doesn't want to pay for for TB replacement; these usually have 100-120k miles and are a bit cheaper. I just means you have to do it, but you save in the long run. Have $ on hand and be patient. Keep looking around to get a feel for the market, and when you see one that sounds good, go check it out top to bottom. You will know when to buy based either on quality or price. I lean towards quality as I want something with few problems, not many... B

The wierdo in the hat has stolen MrJim??? B

Isn't 190ish the good running temp for these motors?? I remember someone (of knowledge) posting this in a thermostat thread... What does that equate to for the e-fan setting, I'm not sure... B

Yes, exactly. There are minor differences, but it can/will work; we just don't want liability, or whatever. Thanks Nunya... B

Toby, why buy from Thorley for $569 when you can get them for $359 from Rocky Road Outfitters?? The debate of what fits on what has been beaten to death. The end of it is that the THY-464-2 headers (the only ones available for 90-95) have been installed on both manual and AT. Some say easy, some say need modification but not dependent on transmission. Check out Slick's signature... These are her two pathfinders and note Thorleys installed on both?? Ask her for info if that is not enough... Not directed at you specifically, but damn, people don't listen lately!! B

You can try drilling it, it's fast and easy. Also, yes, there are some bushings where it is generally agreed that burning them off is the best way, but I don't know if this is one. B

Welcome back Cotter!! Yeah, after 4-5 months off, I start getting pretty itchy myself. Glad to hear things are looking up... BTW, I'm pretty sure they have internet in Vegas, and desert wheeling is fun!! B

It is in a truck I'm parting out... I'll post or PM you in the next day or two. The timing belt isn't bad so far, but all I did was tear it down today... No worries!! B

Main page, click on Thorley... They have them, trust me... As for the stupid cat after the y pipe, yes they all came with them and should still have them. They are there for a reason and if you get a high performance one like mine, it won't affect power. Sheesh!! B

I am pretty sure you need the 2 wire heated unit. Bosch sells one for around $60 that you splice in to the existing connector; that is about as cheap as it gets. I'd stay away from the $25 no name, vague description units. Saving $ is fine, but your truck needs decent info to run right. Just my .02... B

I figured it was, just had to say it... I have the lower hydraulic stuff and can take a picture of my console for you, hopefully tomorrow. I'm in the middle of a timing belt job and a little distracted... Also, anything you need new, check out Alkorahil in the services section, he has the best prices for dealership items that I have seen... B

Stainless pipe?? B

I believe the latch is actuated by mechanical lever IIRC, but I have never had to mess with mine. I know you can remove the interior trim and get to the linkage that way to open it and figure out what failed. Are you saying that the handle lifts up but nothing happens (no release)? Good time to try out the search function, I know there have been several threads about it... Yeah, I know that messing with the odometer is a major deal if caught, but I'm talking about removing the odometer portion from a broken speedo and putting it in a 'new' one so the truck shows the correct mileage, that can't be illegal!! But, I don't know if it is easily possible... B