Precise1

I'm installing a modded CL on Saturday, but thanks... B

A leak at the manifold could create different conditions/ratios than the computer expects, but it shouldn't be so bad unless it is a large noticable leak. Did the ECU have any stored codes?? B

Clean the MAF ans check the connector/harness. Check the connector for the TSP. Check the resistance of the O2 sensor (<1000 ohms??). I'm not good at electrical and would have to look it up. I know both bowtied and k9sar have posted the technical info on these so use their names in the advanced search. (I'm going to have to get these in one thread and pin it) B

No, sorry, my bad. Bleed brakes is 95% of 'bleed' phrases, my fingers did the walking... I meant bleed clutch hydraulics like I did in my first post. If you have any air/water in it, you may not be completely seperating the pressure plate. It is a good first try, and odds are that the fluid is so old it needs changing anyway. Save the seals, eh... Ok, thanks for the clarification, you have obviously been there... B

I did add 1/2 qt of Lucas oil stabilizer. Perhaps that made the difference between a little stiff shifting and really stiff/grinding issues... I don't ever deal with anything less than 20F though. B

Yes, that is the correct order to do thigs except that #1 should read 'bleed the brakes'. With those miles, the tranny should be good, but don't but it unless you know/trust the PO and/or have a warranty. Yes, $200 is a fairly good deal if there are no issues. Yes, 94-95 have electronic speedos, not cable driven so the unit in the tranny must be different. I have no idea if it is better to swap the speedo (cable is more reliable, I believe) or the sender/wire/cable... B

LOL No worries, I knew what I was looking for, now go get those headers!!! When I called, Thorley had some in stock so I basically got them in 2 weeks (although that seemed slow). B

Everything you ever needed to know on this page, courtesy of... me!!! http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...&hl=thorley B

I know that plenty of people run that in their WD21's with the identical tranny... B

The biggest problem with the beam types, especially at the higher torques, it can be difficult to be in a position to be able to read the scale/pointer at all, if not properly. B

Got one of them for sale too... B

If it was used as a breaker bar (exceeding it's torque specs), it is not longer accurate. That's just the way it works... Damn, is that the secret?? And to think that I just stumbled across it... B

Fair enough, but will you really stop working on cars/machinery?? Yeah, it's a few $'s and I have been there, so can you just borrow one?? *doesn't trust a $13 torque wrench* B

Just a word of advice from someone who has used them for decades. Don't trust a "cheaper than 13 bucks" torque wrench. This is one area that it is not worth fooling around with. My first torque wrench, a Craftsman digital lasted almost 20 years and some of that was daily use. I had it rebuilt once when the handle slipped (digital window moves) and it recently did it again so I bought another to calibrate it with and will fix it myself. The latest was an Armstrong for $130 (which is a more simple and durable design) and the old one was $90 about 20 years ago. I fully expect not to have to buy another in my lifetime. Get a good torque wrench and simply treat it well. It will be worth the $ and last a LONG time. Here is the one I bought having used them at work for years, best bang for buck in my book. https://www.armstrongtools.com/catalog/prod...jsp?groupID=914 #64-046 B

Exactly. I'm guessing you buy it in 1 liter bottles anyway... B

First try bleeding the clutch in both places (one on the firewall). It may make some difference. Then make sure you are running GL-4, when was the last time it was changed?? There is a TSB about overfilling the tranny to 5.1 liters, is this how much is in the tranny? Redline works well in the trannys. If you run that to the 'overfill' amount and still have trouble, I'd say it is physical wear or damage, probably to the syncros... B

LOL Thanks for the good info... B

You can check the codes yourself. Here are the instructions. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=21 Yes, your problem could definitely be fuel related, from pump to pressure regulator to filter. It's always a good idea to start with the ECU codes though as it is quick, easy and free... B

You just need the bulb?? That's why we have a classified section... (I have spare bulbs and PS glass) B

That unit is a bit different than what he was talking about... I have the corded one. Seems to work fine the 6 times it's been plugged in, but it is large; you need room to use it!! Smaller form factor and cordless is a major plus!!! Torque a bolt to 150 ft/lbs (if you can) and then break it loose (bet you cant). It might not sound like much, but it ain't chicken scratch!! The bright side is that it will probably loosen bolts and spin them free rather than shearing them. More is not always better!! Save a few pennies and get both, it's not like you won't use them... B

GODDAM CANADIANS!!! Always wanting a hand out, worse than leaches... B

Looks great (just like mine), congrats!!! I'm jealous of the manual tranny, but then you don't have an external carrier. What the hell, both can be installed!! Good to see you stick to what's been proven the best... WD21 (4doors) B

Check for ECU codes before anything else... B

Ahh, cool. Sounds like it worked out well. I'm about 80 miles farther north but I was working OT and chores so I probably couldn't have come by to say Hi... B

Yes, they can, due to the momentary torque and the impact. They have their uses, like I said. What you can do is ring the bolts (strike squarely a few times with a hammer), this can break loose corrosion and then soak the bolts with a penetrating oil such as liquid wrench, PB Blaster, Kroil, etc several times over a few days. This will probably do more to reduce the chance of breakage than the impact driver. You will occasionally come across the bolt that will not come out without breaking no matter what you do. B