Precise1

Have you looked at the 'poor mans lift' option?? Look it up (search), k9sar was the author IIRC. Let me know if you need help or have questions. I mention it because Calmini has issues like shock clearance and overall cost... B

Yeah Nige, I've followed your problems with the Calmini set up and their version of 'support'. It really sucks in your case, and was part of the reason I went with the HooHaa CL. Cheaper was part of it also though... Yeah, my fix wouldn't be just opening up the holes unless I made offset inserts or something. I haven't thought about it too much yet. If I have to, I'll try to reuse most of it rather than throwing it away. Hell, it's stock if nothing else. Yeah, they look good, but As a machinist, I can say this seems a little pricy. I haven't cost the material so I won't scream too loud, but as someone who supervised a job shop for years and owned his own shop, that seems expensive. On the other hand, if they withstand years of abuse, they are probably worth it. It'd be handy to have a print of them... B

Phew, I'm glad I had back up!!! Andrew was starting to act all crazy and sheit... B

My first XE had 31" tires and the speedo was accurate. I assumed this was factory... B

Yeah, it almost seems that 'a loud bang and no gears' is a better failure mode than the 'lost reverse, etc'. Seems to be a more straight forward fix. Not like either are good though... B

Ok, well, I talked to Justin R today and send him essentially the same email. He said he might have to send it to engineering, but will get back to me about it. Ok, the clock has started, lets see what happens... B

Those happen to be one of a kind, custom made glove box pins... Great job guys. We all knew it was going to be a lot of work, but you are the ones who did it... B

Oh, just for your amusement... And does anyone have any idea why Energy Suspension front sway bar links are so much longer than stock?? I recall someone else mentioning the same thing. I can't see how it hurts anything (other than the bushings not aligning perfectly with the end eyelets). Is this a semi universal kit or something?? B

Well, thanks all for the (sort of) helpful ideas. At the end of it, I went the Simon (lazy) route and drilled it out on the truck. I didn't do too bad, it's centered better than .02" and not terribly bell mouthed. The centerlink is on so after work when I pick up the last two tie rod ends I will install them, torque everything, fix the squealing brakes put the rims on and adjust the torsion bars. Alignment tomorrow and little stomper is back on the road (minus idler arm brace :shifty:). Thanks again for the input, the job was remarkably frustrating. B

Now, now. Yeah, this has been asked before, but there is a lot to look at/figure out when on a new site. Thanks for the link though... B

I have not called yet. I've been too busy the last few days, but hopefully tomorrow. I can reassemble the truck without it for now. I believe that most braces do not have this issue, it's a pretty simple piece to screw up. That's why I was very suprised when it wouldn't mount properly. Hopefully they will recognize the issue. Is there someone you recommend talking to? B

Thanks for the offer, but if I can drill a decent hole with it mounted on the truck then there is no need. I appreciate the offer and will let you know if I need that from you. Thanks! B

A pump is best, but I have used a squeezable plastic bottle with a bit of a nozzle on it and kept refilling it when it was 1/2 way empty. A bit of a pain and I recall my hand being cramped by the time I was done, but it worked... B

Yep, I've heated it up with a propane torch, put tension on it and beat it with a hand sledge. No luck, I'll post a picture of the warped puller. It got so bad that I was actually concerned about it shrapnelling. I think I own one of them... Simply put, I give up. I turned down the shank on my 5/8 drill and I will try to drill it out by hand on the truck tonight. Thanks Red, but the later models have a different (larger) style so I doubt it would fit. B

Thanks Bud. I was pretty sure that was the case. Last night I swapped that side around and ordered a set of outers also. When I get this thing put back together, the only things that will not have been replaced recently are the LCA bushings, lower ball joints and idler arm (but 'rebuilt'). B

Absolutely and it probably will be my last resort. It won't cost anything, I'll just turn down my 5/8 Silver and Demming drill from 1/2 to 3/8 shank on the lathe... I'm still gonna try one more time. At this point, I want to clean up the rust on the splines too... B

Ahh, good call, but there is no center link installed. It's just the arm on the shaft, nothing else do I doubt it is binding on the splines... B

Well, the biggest issue with Simon's suggestion is that I don't have a 1/2 capacity hand drill and that is the smallest shank size I have for a 5/8 drill. Besides, I'm a machinist!! I drilled out the idler arm on a mill and it looks beautiful, is centered within a few thousandths and is exactly .625" in diameter with no bell mouth what so ever. Asking me to drill it out by hand is like asking a mechanic to fix valve tap by adding sawdust to the oil... I called Rob Lacy (AKA Alkorahil who is a great guy to deal with BTW) and he can get me a new one for $60 but not until end of next week so I'm going to give it another try tonight before I give up. It is kind of a challenge now... Good point about the parts truck, but that one is in worse shape so I don't think it would be a good idea to tackle. I won't rule it out though... LOL MZ, yes, it has been soaking, yes, it has a puller on it and yes, I'll hit another 100 times just for you!! B

x2 on the adjustable... B

On a 95 it's 41mm. I have the perfect tool for the removal also... B

No, I did not want to destroy it, I need to drill it out and remount it... Good ideas!! I do not have an air hammer and with wedges, I'd have to force against the bottom of the steering box which doesn't sound like all that good of an idea. Engineering/making a puller that is stronger is something I considered, but time and materials need to be factored in, not to mention the one I have is pretty beefy already... A guy at work asked me how much a new arm costs... So now I have a air cut off tool and I'm thinking about just ordering a new one after I butcher this one... B

Yeah, I fixed that, thanks. Problem with your reply though, is that it doesn't help... B

I bought two new Tie Rod Ends and have installed one on the passenger side without issue. They are identical, both left hand thread (according to the guy who sold them to me) but the tie rod on the drivers side has right hand thread. What is correct?? Left or right hand thread?? Did some jerky install my drivers side tie rod assembly backwards?? I just want to get this 'right' so I don't have issues when I ask a shop for parts. Anyone know off hand or is willing to go look?? Thanks!! B

Ok, I have a pitman arm puller on it, which I think I have already bent, it has soaked for days with PB Blaster, I have manually persuaded it from every available direction with a 3lb hand sledge and even heated it up with a torch until it was smoking. Nothing, I can't get it to budge. The nut was bad enough to get off and there is some rust. I no longer have ready access to liquid nitrogen so I'm almost out of ideas. Anyone have some trick for me to try?? Thanks... B

Ok, why didn't you say so?? See, now you have bragging rights about saving a pathy from the grave... B