Precise1

If you have the larger type pitman arm, the nut is 41mm (1 5/8). I couldn't get it to budge with a 2" crescent wrench, my feet braced on the frame pulling 2 handed like a rower. I did dig up this slugging wrench (will post a picture later) which did the trick when liberally applying a 3lb hand sledge. I'll ship it to you for use if you ship it back and cover the cost. The real trouble was breaking the pitman arm free from the steering box output shaft spline. I believe my steering box has play so I may have to swap it out. I'm considering making a real puller. How soon do you plan to do this job?? B

Nope, I ended up drilling it out on the truck. I simply could not get it to budge no matter what I did. Like Red said, remove it first!! It's kinda like removing the differential fill hole before you remove the drain plug... B

That's what I said, I hope you have better luck than I did. Start soaking, heating, pounding and applying the puller now... B

It can't hurt to check them again. I prefer WD-40, but someone said brake cleaner because it dries so quickly and without residue. Basically any flammable aerosol you can spray around your vacuum system while the engine is running. To test a connection or hose, spray it and if the isle surges, there is a vacuum leak; it is drawing in the vapor... B

Nige has it, joebob is selling his, can't remember who else right now... B

You obviously do have a coolant leak, just a small one. You will have to look much more closely or have it pressure tested. Something is wrong. Your truck shouldn't backfire because it is cold. Have you checked the ECU codes? Look for vacuum leaks also... B

That may mean it is too tight?? That is the only sound type issue I have heard of. Describe how you tensioned it. B

The size (OD) of the pipe from the passenger (right) side is 2.007". That sleeves into the expanded tube of of the drivers side pipe (2.160" OD, 2.011 ID) so it becomes the collector. Just took those measurements off of my set in the garage, and so it is written. I'll look for the right clamp tomorrow, this had me a bit perplexed. B

Is that the larger arm or the smaller?? Seriously!! It should be the larger by that year, but I hear there are odd balls. Which one is the larger?? I'll tell you tomorrow after work when I can count, photograph and post the info. B

Both mine do. Like was said, swap out the 3rd member froma LSD pathy... B

What size were the old tires? Have your torsion bars sagged up front? You should be able to run 31x10.5" tires on the stock rims... B

I'm with GG on this. Get a blank, line it up nice and clamp them together. Get to work with a dremel and a set of needle files, start large and test it for (smooth) operation. Once you are there, wire wheel it and you are good to go. I have replicated several bent, etc keys that way. B

You can try to glue it into place with some silicone. This is a common issue, but it is more cosmetic than anything else. If you can find good trim and remove it without damaging it from a junk yard, by all means, do so. Grab all you can and sell it here!! Replacement from the dealer is crazy expensive, something like $100-180 each piece, depending what it is. I plan to look into some rubber softener/reconditioning products first. B

Thanks for the help, Andreus. I haven't had the time to play with the search function, much less the advanced functions as I'm too busy removing parts from my donor for people... B

Yes, some of the maintanence is a pain, but once you know what to do, it isn't so bad. Thankfully, they don't need a lot of it... Yes, a MT swap is possible and affordable. You are in MN, so pick up an old rusted donor car and drag it into your yard for parts. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23822&st=0 B

Do you mean the slip fit of the cross over pipe or whatever?? Don't they have a band clamp for that, but you recommend sealant also? What kind did you use?? B

Nice!!! Congrats on finishing the project... B

If you could get the dimensions and could weld, this would probably be a good starting place assuming one is close enough in dimensions. Otherwise, I doubt it is worth the effort... B

Just a thought, which spec were they trying to bring in with all that shimming? I'm certain it's not camber, is it the steering axis (SAI)?? I just had mine aligned and everything seems about right other than that, it's almost double the values. I talked to the a tech about it and his response was that the after market arms do that. It sort of makes sense. Here, look at this... http://www.familycar.com/alignment.htm B

Yep, when I pulled off my stock UCAs, ther were several of the slip in shims and a few washers of various thicknesses. B

Looks nice and quite the deal, no?? I think you meant that backwards, but no for the 2" lift, all you have to do is remove the the bottom shroud bit. I know there are plenty of people with a 3" lift who didn't do the radiator drop. Exactly... Remember, these are grade 5 or higher bolts. As a machinist, I question how easily and nicely they will allow die threading... B

I do recall reading something similar to what you are describing, the injector malfunctioning and damaging the ECU, but I can not recall the exact context. I know several people have needed 'new' ECUs due to theirs not functioning correctly but I can't help with what units will work for your truck. There is an airplane mechanic in Hawaii with whom I was talking about selling him my EUC and he seemed to have good info about which ones he was looking for. I'll see if I can contact him again, he may be a good resource and/or Morpheus or Alkorahil who both work in dealerships may be able to provide you with some info?? B

Just curious how things have worked out so far. I was approached by another member and have a high stakes wager on the root cause of your starter/starting issue. Kingmans advice about testing for draw is sound. There have been a couple threads about auto door locks autolocking. I'll see if I can find something... B

How old are you?? B

Well, I'm on my second pathfinder now, having driven the first one for at least 4 years. Before that I drove a D720 with the z24 motor (like Mr P) for 10 years, that sold me on Nissan trucks as it was the most dependable vehicle I have ever owned. Since my 'new' pathy just hit 100k miles and I only drive it 8-10k miles a year, I expect to drive it for a decade +. B