Precise1

Looks like you got it done, but I would have done a lot more with flex lines and push lock fittings. Simply cheaper, smaller, lighter, etc. Just personal preference, I priced some of that brass tonight and holy crap!! B

Have you verified that it is the manifold/broken studs? That you need headers? I'll tell you how hard it is to install the Throley headers next week. B

The Walker clamps I ordered have some goo in them, but it looks like you need to properly apply it. I think I'm just going to go with the Permatex high temp, but put some some on the inside lap joint pipe as well as around the seam under the clamp. I think 1/2 of the trick is to let it cure before you start the truck. Oh, the clamps I bought specified the torque at 50-70 ft/lbs, so you can probably go tighter. B

Or you could buy mine off the parts truck. It would go nicely with the drivers seat. (Did you ever find the piece of trim?) B

Buy it. You can get $300 worth of parts off of it in 1 hour. Sell some parts you know you don't need to recoup the initial purchase price. B

Your bell housing would have to have a puddle in it to leak from that spot, which would mean your clutch wouldn't work. Are you sure it isn't running down from the back of your valve cover gaskets or something? Maybe your slave cylinder leaking?? B

LOL, I vote for an oil filled starter myself. When I replaced the clutch in my first pathy, it took 2 full cans of contact/brake cleaner to flush it out and it worked fine for another 4 years when it exhibited the same symptoms as described above. I'm looking forward to removing and inspecting it again... FYI, If you suspect moisture in your distributor, remove the cap and give both the inside of the cap and the rotor a quick shot of WD-40 (hint, WD=Water Displacement, what it is really meant for), reassemble and if that was the issue, it will be no longer... B

Thanks for the tip. I know that stainless isn't as strong, but the headers aren't high torque, correct? (forgot to check the torque spec). I plan to use some blue loctite to help keep them from backing off... B

I am not sure yet. They are about 1/8" thick and quite small in diameter (and quite ugly). All I can think of is that they are there for some sort of expansion purposes. Any reason you ask?? Ok, the stock stud threads into the hole aproximately 14mm (.55") before it bottoms out on the center section. With the stock exhaust manifolds (aprox 13mm (.5") thick), I was able to snug a 30mm long bolt all the way down to the head without any washers. This means there is at least 16mm+ (.65") of thread engagement possible which solves the concern of enough thread engagement with bolts. The Thorley headers are aprox 11mm (.45") thick, this means you can use a thinner flat washer and still have 16mm+ thread engagement (more than stock studs) or reuse the stock spacer/washers (3mm or .125" thick) and have about the same thread engagement as stock studs would have. M8x1.25x30mm bolts seem like the proper length for the headers (should work fine for stock manifolds also but 35mm long should be perfect) and are what I plan to use. I see no advantage to using studs in this application other than for initial alignment and can be hand threaded in for this purpose. The only thing I'm going to do is try to find some stainless or plated bolts instead of the black oxide ones that I aquired. B

http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=&item_number=356&page_num=6 http://www.whiteknightpaints.com.au/product/view/fish-oil Most sources are Australian though. Hey, you ever see a rusty fish?? B

IIRC, there are some vertical slots/holes with pegs at the bottom, I'll have to look again when I get home. There was no real trick to it though. Yeah, you may just need to replace the seal or socket in the back... B

Isn't the standard to remove any bumpstops in the rear for articulation?? If not, what is the difference between this and stock?? B

Rinse it down well inside the channels (GrimGreg has a post for a handy spray tool), let it dry and then spray it inside and out with denatured fish oil. Reapply whenever desired. Natural, durable rust barrier, cheap, simple, eco friendly. B

Damn again, best of luck with that!! Ok, you are scaring me again!! Now you have me wanting to swap or keep all the parts JIC!! B

All I can say is 'could be'. If it was my truck, this is what I would do. 1) Tighten the oil pan bolts and tranny pan bolts. Just a good snug (something like 10-12ft/lbs) but you'll know if they are a bit loose. 2) Wipe down the bottom of the pans and the front and rear bottom of the engine and tranny. 3) Drive it for a bit and park it on a level, accessable spot. 4) Get underneath and at least generalize where the leak is coming from. B

Good input, thanks!! Is that why you needed that section of pipe?? Well, I'm going to leave it out (for now) and count on the high flow cat for the back pressure (not gutted, like yours). Hoping for the happy medium?? But yeah, if I have any issues, I will simply have another pipe section fabbed that has it included. Pretty cheap, really, and may make for an interesting comparison. B

I never really checked the clearances for the shields. It seemed like plenty, but it is possible, I suppose. It's really hard to diagnose when you are not there. It could be many things. If you have Harbor Freight nearby, you can get a mechanic stethescope for about $8, it's a great tool for this kind of thing and well worth the $. B

Hmm, useful site!! What you say makes sense Dave, but from their diagrams, neither Federal or Carfornia shows the precat, unless I am misreading. If it was easy, that is only until I get a hold of it... B

Remove the frame and dip it in a huge vat of POR 15, after prep work, of course. B

Thanks for the input so far, but I'd love to hear more. It doesn't make sense that the pre-cat is a California spec yet all 3 of Adam's have it (not to mention my 2 east coast vehicles). That's more coincidence than I am willing to accept. I'm almost wondering if it isn't a cold weather option as it is directly related to start up and catalytic operating temperature. I just talked to the local Stealership parts department and asked him if the pre-cat was required, was it available and how much does it cost. He said that the 95 only shows 1 cat according to their parts list. I've decided that I am going to leave that piece out of the system and only run the new cat. I'll find out next year (smog year) if there is an issue. If there is, I'll just have a new section made with the pre-cat and install that (flange connections). B

More convenient and cheaper, I believe, but I'm pretty sure the aftermarket mounting has a greater weight capacity. I's more about what you need it for. B

If the aftermarket unit mounts to the existing rack, then the weight limit still applies as the stock channels are just laying on sheet metal. If the aftermarket units have different mounting (feet that clip on by the doors or whatever) then go by thier recommended max weight for the mounting system/your vehicle. B

Ok, I have 2 95XE pathfinders, both have a pre-cat. This is specifically for warming up, it gets to temp faster than the 'normal' cat so it helps cut emissions from a cold start. Not a bad idea, too bad it is a small diameter (1.75")rusted piece of crap. I'm installing headers this weekend and would like not to have it re-installed, but still need to be smog compliant. The Thorleys end in a 2.25" flanged tube, I'm going into a 2" high flow cat and then 2.25" the rest of the way. My questions are does your pathfinder have a pre-cat stock? What year is it and where do you live. Is this something specific to snow country? (one pathy was from Rodchester, NY and the other from Pensylvania) Do you have aftermarket headers and are smog compliant? What is your set up? Thanks for the input... B

Crap!! Have you run the AT diagnostics?? B

Sounds like a good idea. $5 says it isn't the timing belt tensioner... B