Precise1

Exactly. That's why most aftermarket units do the same... B

Can you pin point it any more? At least what side of the vehicle it comes from?? If not the belts, could it be the components with pulleys? B

Hydraulic fluid eats paint so there was a leak there previously (still?). Sand and primer it and forget it. Post a pict of what you are talking about please. B

Use a mechanics stethesscope or a long metal rod or screw driver (cup a hand at the end and listen) and probe around to try to locate the source... B

If you are in the rust belt, get a machanic to quote a flat rate and let them do it... First thing is to soak the threads with a penetrant like PB Blaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench, etc. If that doesn't let you break it loose, try heating up the bung around it with a propane torch. Wear safety glasses at all times, keep the rust and chemicals out of your eyes. Some people have a hell of a time with them, other report minimal difficulty. B

Do you ever get bored, get out and walk ahead of the truck... Yeah, I think you might win the slow contest... B

Considering that no one is listing gear ratios or tire sizes, rpm and indicated speed is all moot. 3000@70 isn't anything excessive, these trucks run a little higher in the rpm to try to make up for lack of power anyway. I have noticed the same effect and it is the TC lockup as far as I can tell. Perfectly normal... Clean fluid should look pink and not have black residue in it. B

Ok, you talked me into it. Go ahead and get it... B

A few questions?? 1) Do you have strict smog laws where it would be registered? 2) What would it's use be? 3) Do you have enough parking where you live? B

Well, you have mixed purposes here. What will handle brush just fine won't do crap with a deer at 40mph. As a matter of fact, there isn't much available that can handle a deer 55mph, that is actually a serious impact. Search for 'roo bars', the Aussies have it down to an art and you'll see most of them look like locomotive cow catchers or the start of a Mad Max project. That's actually what is required though!! So, with a stock bumper, you can mount a factory or aftermarket grill/light guard that will work just fine for the light duty it was intended for. Anything more serious and you are replacing the stock bumper as it is a tin foil joke to begin with... B

Generally, the seal problems associated with overheating is the head gasket. It is possible that you have an oil leak that is not affecting the coolant passages. what you need to do is wipe things down well, especially old runs and caked areas then dust with a white powder, talcum is probably cheapest. Drive and inspect for leaks; it may not be a big deal but you have to identify the source... B

My bad, that's what I get for trusting my memory... B

Yes, it does. B

yes, 94-95 are round tooth belts with 105k replacement intervals VS the 86.5-93 with 60k intervals. Honestly, a nice benefit for late model owners... B

There is a thread where someone used a cherry picker in through one of the front doors. It was tight but going well until they released load it (or something like that) and the end of the boom went through their windshield. End of the day, just be careful. I have not run a winch but use electric gantry cranes and hoists and have to agree that it might be convenient, but probably not a good approach... B

Very good answer, I'm going with it!! I prefer the square ones in general but don't mind the spiral with larger diameter. My first choice is a 140 degree CCW carbide spade drill. It'll make the easy out hole but can relieve, bite and extract the bolt sometimes. B

IIRC, you generally have to remove or at lease loosen the x pipe to drop the pan. If yo clean the surfaces very well, yes, the proper rtv should be just fine. Just be careful not to smear it when reinstalling and do not overtorque, you can always recheck easily. There is no filter, per se, but a screen. Remove clean the screen and wipe out the pan with a lint free towel. B

Actually, here is the fastest way... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24629&view=findpost&p=450378 B

The stud is about 47mm long new with aprox 13mm threaded into the head and 13mm unthreaded to the face of the manifold, so from the face of the maniflod, you should not drill more than 1" or risk drilling into the head. I'm guessing that the easy out only needs 3/8-1/2 depth max. Are you using the spiral ones or the square ones? Soak the stud with penetrating oil and strike it a few times if possible. Be careful not to break the easy out off in the stud... B

If it isn't showing any codes, it's getting good gas and spark then I would guess that the timing belt jumped a tooth or two on one cam sprocket or something. When was the last time the belt was changed. It is 105k intervals. That's a lot of work to check though so lets hear more opinions... No, just the belt and tensioner. B

Not the most helpful, but yeah, I try. About the CD... CRAP!!! Ok, I'm off this week so I have the time and I just wrote it on my calendar so I won't forget again... B

The rusted stump at 4 o'clock is the broken wheel stud. It means you are only holding the wheel on with 5 lug nuts. I suggest you disassemble the hub yourself as per the topic terrano1992 linked to see if anything is broken, clean and properly lube them, reinstall and see if they work. The hubs may simply not work if they are rusted inside, packed with grease or have never been serviced. There is no evidence yet that anything is broken. B

Just to let you know, you live in Arizona... As a matter of fact, if you hate having hot air blown on you, why the hell do you live in Arizona... B

How did it run before the tuneup and what was the timing at before you adjusted it? B

Ok, looked at EL-7, went out and checked the 10 amp fuse labled "meter" and it was blown. Replaced it and the truck fired right up with gauges working. Haven't driven it yet, but I'm about recheck the header bolts, take the winch off of the ARB, and go for a drive (with spare fuses). I'm both happy that it is that simple and embarrassed; I thought I checked all the fuses... Now, let's see if it was justa fluke, or if there is a root cause... Thanks T1992, you chased it down faster than I did from 1/2 the world away!! B