Precise1

Fair enough... If the exhaust leak is before the O2 sensor, you need to take care of it first. B

I second sammy, unless what ever bound/let go took the front input seal of the tranny with it. How many miles on it?? Sorry, but that's funny, how you said it. Personally, when I think something is about to fail, i usually try to schedule the repair but that isn't always possible or even works out better... Good luck, hopefully it just needs all the bell house fixings. They are probably going to work you on the labor though, unless you know them well... B

Ok, sorry, I'm out of loop these days so I assumed it was more than liability. Holy Crap!! I'm not sure what I would do/what you could do, but I wouldn't pay that much for insurance... Ok, that said, you don't have the cash for headers. A cat back system helps a little and so does intake. These can be had/made cheaply and will be the most bang for buck. The best part is they don't need to change with other mods... B

The capacity for 90-95 is 9 quarts so you'll only need 5 or so, I'm guesstimating that... B

Bad oil pressure? blocked oil channels?? Is there a lot of sludge in the motor? Have you tried flushing it? B

10mpg says there is a problem. Check cap and rotor, I have had the center electrode disappear (and still run!!) O2 sensor exhaust leak fuel leak Wasn't all this gone over already? B

That's it!! B

I highly recommend dropping the full coverage insurance, $5k is insane and a waste. Get liability and uninsured motorist and make damn sure you don't run into anyone. You should save $3k+ a year, enough to buy another pathy every year!! B

Who do you know that changes their timing belt per schedule within 1000 miles of recommended?? You know what I meant and so does he... B

All the ones I have ever had. They shouldn't be loose but shouldn't be binding either. I have found that anything stiffer than 1/8+ turn (cold) means it is prone to binding and anything looser than 1/2 turn means it doesn't bind well enough to properly drive the fan. These are rough guidelines learned from personal experience, but it seems to apply most of the time. If course, if there is lateral play in the fan clutch, it needs replacing regardless of the spin test. B

You won't get all the fluid out, only something like 1/2 but the exact amount is uncertain. The best way is to measure what came out and put that much back in, or at least close and then go by dipstick. I'll check my manual in a bit... B

Stock, you have a fan clutch, it sounds like it is binding. Try turning it by hand, it should free wheel 1/4+ turn if you spin it as fast as you can. If this seems ok, them run it until it warms up/makes the noise, shut off the motor and check it again. Should be an easy fix (8 bolts/nutz) B

Or some combination of the two?? Yes, that could have somethiong to do with it. Time to pull the switch and examine it, the cntacts and the bulb. B

Yeah, the exhaust shop I used had several pieces of cats that had done that. I got a Magnaflow 2" direct fit, flanged cat through performancepeddler.com. It was $130 with free shipping IIRC, the cheapest I could find. Make sure to call/email for price. You may be able to get a better price on a slightly different unit as mine had to be Cali CARB legal. B

Sorry, I missed the step of torqueing to spec after letting it curing over night and before driving. It can't hurt to recheck the torque a few days later... LOL JJ, small bead or gob and wipe. It all works... B

I installed my Thorleys and drove it to an exhaust shop with a cat, muffler and O2 sensor on the passenger seat and said "here, put it together, please..." I have no problem using the professionals either... B

I'm sure I'll add to the list several times... Some of the most standard and common items would be: 1) Modified or fabricated bumper mounts that use the stock mounting points and correctly mount the stock bumper for a WD21 with 3" body lift. Should be easy... Consider a reinforced bar or small I beam that can be mounted in the stock bumper that makes it more than sheet metal. Consider doing this for the rear... 2) Rear bumper adapters/mounts for the rear bumper of a WD21 with a 3" body lift. I haven't looked yet so I don't know what it entails. 3) Idler arm brace. Calmini has one, mine didn't fit. AC has them? Make a good simple unit that fits, others may be interested in a dual sheer type. 4) Pan hard rod mount drop. Here is the key, make them so they can be cut down and drilled at desired length. People get 2-4"+ of lift. 5) Snorkel adapter for the 2 door WD21? 6) Body lift blocks, just have to determine the best plastic. I'm sure the R50 owners will have several items also. I'm in NorCal so I don't know how useful it would be, but I am a machinist with trucks and CAD so let me know if you need any help with dimension, design, fitment, etc... B

If you don't do a lot of mechanical work, don't have a good tool selection or place to work, are on a time limit, etc, then yes, sometimes it's worth taking it to the people who prepared and experienced. In this case, I would probably just bring them the truck and the O2 sensors unless you know they will give you a good price on them. Don't bother replacing the pipe yet, let them try to get them out; I'm sure they know all the tricks... I have worked on some exhausts and they are not that bad but then I deal with a lot of prehard and full hard tool and stainless steels... I do agree though, quality tools make a huge difference!! B

*snort* I have some spare horns but you may be better off just buying something new locally... B

Economy is when the top of the rocker switch is depressed. When you switch to Power (bottom depressed) does the light come on or the shift points change? Perhaps it is possible that the switch has shorted and you are always in power mode but the bulb is burnt out? B

When I get home in 5 hours... B

Maybe this helps with checking the O2 sensor?? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24592 B

I'm going with B also. You can probably get out/break off and replace the flange bolts fairly easily. I'm pretty sure it is not a pipe thread. I thought I heard my exhaust shop say it was a 14mm?? I can double check... I agree in principle, but those are some expensive cutting tools!! B

The best kind of fix... B

Sorry, but I do not recall. I supplied the gaskets for the mid pipe but did not install it. The regular paper kind will work fine. I have heard of people doubling up paper gaskets to make sure that it seals. The key is not to over torque!! 25 ft/lbs max IIRC?? Crush the gaskets or warp the flange and you will still leak. You can also use Permatex copper sealant. It stinks for a bit at first but will hold up for a long time. Just apply a small bead and very lightly torque so you smear/even it out but don't squeeze it out. Let it cure overnight (or longer) then drive... B