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Precise1
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Everything posted by Precise1
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Hey there ID, welcome to NPORA. Nunya has politely covered the please search also part, so we are done there. Also, as he said, they can fit. It depends on the height of your suspension, width and backspacing of the rim, how the wheel stops are set and how much articulation you normally do. B
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Yep, that sums it up. Head down to Harbor Freight for more ideas... Oh, invest in an auto oiler/regulator and your air tools will last longer. B
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No, the LSD should not normally have this kind of effect. Like bowtied asked, but I suspect this isn't the case? Could the universal joints on the drive shaft be binding? B
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Yes, the first thing to check is if the cable spins as it should or not. I'm not sure of the easiest way to check it, but if you jack up the rear end so both tires are off the ground and remove the gauge cluster so you can see the end of the cable, then you can start the truck, put it in gear for a moment to see if the cable spins. Like I said, there may be an easier way, I understand that putting the gauge cluster back in is a pain due to the speedo cable... Lets see what others say. B
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The connectors won't be the same so you'll have to do some splicing or something. B
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Holy Crap!! You were running without the bottom timing belt cover?? In Mud?? Just one mor example of how hard these motors are to kill... Go to the parts wanted section and post there, go to the parts for sale section and see if any one is parting out a truck, and the last thing would be get it from a wrecker, but it will take a little bit of work to remove... B
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http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showforum=21 I think ther was talk of a monthly meet and there have been a few small trail runs... B
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It could be coolant temp sensor for the ecu, but that is usually accompanied by backfiring or engine bogging. I'd check your O2 sensor first. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24592 Have you run the error codes in the ECU yet? B
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Don't count on the limiter and you will be fine... B
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Sounds like you are ok with the T case chain, just drive it. If you hear the noise change significantly, that may indicate a problem. Is the clicking once per rev, 2x per rev, etc?? Nothing else should be making that noise. B
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This should answer year/fitment questions... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24854 But if it mounts off of the frame bottom like most do, it will seem lower when you do a lift, and if it ties into the bumper, that will be an issue as the bumper is relocated when you do a body lift. That said, anything can be fitted with a grinder and welder. I recently had my ARB winch bumper stretched to fit my 2" body lift... B
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It's not unusual to hear assorted drive train noise to a small degree, but once you can easily identify the noise, I'd say take a look. Get the replacement lubricant (I think yours states gear oil), remove the filler plug and then the drain plug. What is the fluid like? How much crap on the drain magnet? How big are the pieces? Unless you have a lot to share about the above, replace the drain plug, fill it, seal it and drive it... B
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LOL I think their undoing was what my old neighbor, the tow truck driver, told me, "GM keeps me employed". B
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I believe that is correct, but I think you run into sensor/smog hell... MY1PATH has good info on the 3.0 3.3 combo that he has shared (posted) along with others. They'll probably chime in but take a few minutes and search around a bit anyway, I know it has been posted several times. FYI, my 'new' 95 auto with 101k on it has a strange noise I don't like so I'm saving a complete long block (intake, sensors, etc) out of the previous 95 manual, just because. B I just remembered!! Do this and be the coolest kid on your block... Looks like he's in Florida also, a match made in heaven!! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24692
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All Rightyyyyyyyyy Then!! B
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Sorry Bud, I'm handing this one along... Good luck though B
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Big fat maybe on the last one. Can't tell until you know what damage you did to this one. As for fixing this one, well, yeah, most of us support that but not if it is going to be a money pit (unusual). Like you said, it runs good other than some noise so A) drive it until it dies and find another motor then (not very difficult, they last a long time) or B ) start finding/building one now to swap in. I understand the 3.0 block with 3.3 heads and 3.0 cam makes for a strong motor. I don't do this work so get details from others, but I know it really isn't hard to do, per se. B
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http://www.pnwadventures.com/press-releases/press-release-arb-nissan-frontier-pathfinder-winch-bar/ B
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LOL I was pushing a 79 GS550E so yeah, pretty much the same. The first 100 yards was "Not so bad, I can do this..." and the last 100 yards was "I'm never doing this again!!". A 200 yard 'short cut' was gravel but the only hill was the last 100 yards... B
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Normally quite a bit, as in years and 10s of thousands of miles but if you have crap in your tank, it could be much more frequent. I ask as that is usually step 1 if there is a fuel delivery issue, especially when it is only when high fuel flow is needed. Check your o2 sensor next. Do you have any exhaust leaks? B
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Your set up is almost identical to mine, and I do not have that issue. Right now I suspect that my intake is the restrictive point, but it doesn't stumble or hesitate or die. Did you replace the O2 sensor? Check the resistance of the two outer most pins, it should be between 1-1000 ohms IIRC. Just for kicks check the wiring connector to the MAF. Have you ever changed your fuel filter. To answer your question, no, you shouldn't need to have your ECU remapped. B
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Pushed a motorcycle home 1/2 mile since it wouldn't start. I dare anyone to push a 500lb street bike 1/2 mile!! It was 1 15 amp fuse under the seat... B Some more than others...
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Ok, thanks. I found the thread I was thinking of and it only specifies the newer generation of R50 (1999.5+ I guess). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20797&view=&hl=r50+calipers&fromsearch=1 B I wouldn't. My BFG AT (31x10.5") on the stock 6" wide chromies were a bit pinched causing premature wear. Go by the specific tire recommendation, there is a good site I linked in the unofficial tire review thread towards the end.
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Hey Ty, don't you need 16" rims to clear your calipers?? I thought that was the case with the R50s, I could have sworn someone found out the hard way when they tried to bolt the new rims on... Let me know if I have this mixed up, please. B
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No, they are not. B
