Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

Precise1

Moderator
  • Posts

    42,909
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Congrats, that is a hell of a find!! You have me beat, my 95 has 103k on it... Looks to me like that is a custom fabbed tire carrier, I haven't seen one like it before. The body lift isn't that hard, but a place to work on it and a second set of hands/eyeballs helps a lot!! I'm parting out a 95 and the dash in it is good... Welcome to NPORA BTW!! There are several members near you so I'm sure you can get some help/wheeling buddies. B
  2. No rhyme or reason to that. I ran a poll here that asked about level of trim, type of tranny, LSD or open differential and gear ratio. I think the only major trend was that the SE are usually auto with 4.6 gears and an open diff. Look it up, it shouldn't be hard to find... B
  3. You can do the lift now, mount the sliders and use the stock bumper (it gets relocated) until you buy the HB ARB. If you plan on wheeling, the body lift is handy. If you wrench, the body lift is handy. B
  4. The spark plug wells were packed on the wifes new pathy. 150k miles and the original plugs, the wells were packed with crap. I started the job by shop vacuuming out the oil soaked acorn husks and mouse sheit. What worked for me was to vacuum as much as possible (got a barbed end pipe fitting into the shop vac nozzle and necked it down to 3/8 inch), spray the plug well down with brake cleaner and then swab/mop with a 8" industrial Q-tip. Repeat until clean and then blow everything out/dry with compressed air, remove the plugs and then clean up all the stuff you didn't see before. I wouldn't worry about any sort of caps, they won't really work anyway. B
  5. I'd vote for being patient and doing the 2" body lift first... B
  6. Sorry to hear Bud, but you know what you need to do. Doesn't mean you won't own one again in the future, either... Best of luck with things and drop by and say HI sometimes!! B
  7. I don't know that brand, but ok, a big CNC lathe. Cool, but there is nothing I need from it. Thanks for offering!! On second thought, does it have live milling?? Why did your Dad buy it?? B
  8. I get zapped randomly. Hot days, cold days, etc. I don't have seat covers or wear nylon. I blame it on the intensity of my aura... B
  9. We'll move it to services after a few people have seen/chimed in... Out of curiosity, what exactly is it other than lifted blazer size??? B
  10. And you wish to be stuffed head first into a barrel of leaches?? B
  11. I've already requested a new section specifically for information (to keep things better organized) and am just waiting on the Admin to set it up... B
  12. $10k worth of off road modifications?? They only list about $3k, it doesn't even have bumpers or sliders or anything... Nice truck but not near what they claim. B
  13. Bah, if you already have a 4 door, stick with the superior units. Besides, it is REALLY handy to have another vehicle to swap test parts with... B
  14. You can rebuild the master cylinder as long as your bore is good. Use the advanced search function using members login of mws and mastercylinder or something. He had done it and had information on where to get the rebuild kit and something about bench bleeding IIRC... B
  15. Absolutely, but it still didn't work for me. I spent days and used every trick I know of other than making my own custom puller... B
  16. I don't know why you would want to remove the intake manifold unless you have a lot of crud in the spark plug wells and clean them out any other way. NGK are the favored plugs, I went with the GP platinum for my 95 (stock #7092) and the gap is .032" or .81mm. http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1212017 There should be a tool kit that has the plug wrenches but others have said that a good spark plug socket and a long extension works fine also. B
  17. How many miles?? $1000 is a bit steep for a non running, 20 year old truck, but if he threw in the other motor... Either way, to fix it takes some time, $ and a place to do it. I do know a few people who will want the light bar though... B
  18. Did you install an ECU from a manual shift vehicle?? B
  19. Good to hear. How did you finally get them out?? You have the Pace makers Setters, correct?? I have a 95XE but with Thorleys so I can't help there... B
  20. I've noticed the same thing myself. I've been driving Nissan for the last 15 years, and I don't think I have ever replaced a bulb, any bulb... Well, the interior light bulb for my D720 but the new one blew in 2 seconds so there was a short somewhere. That same truck had hole in the passenger side lens and the reflector cavity would fill up 2/3 with water so the bulb was underwater. Worked fine that way for 10 years, and then I sold the truck... B
  21. I agree, but I'm waiting for some confirmation... B
  22. Exactly, all the parts you listed + having a spare motor with all sensors, etc is worth far more than $500, not to mention you should be able to make a few hundred parting the rest of it out. Other than some time and dealing with it, I can't see how you can go wrong. B
  23. No, I didn't and yes, it is mounted. Time and weather did not permit... BUT It will be coming back off soon so I can install the winch and a second tranny cooler. I will plan it so I have the time to take pictures and measurements. B
×
×
  • Create New...