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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. I don't know how long recommended use is for MT90, but IIRC the tranny oil change is every 30k miles and if you drive hard, wheel, do water crossings, etc, the interval may be less. I'd say play it safe and don't reuse the Redline, or you can jsut wait another 10k miles and change the tranny fluid then. Regardless, it will have no effect on the clutch... As for is it dino or synthetic, I'd guess dino, but just call and ask them... B
  2. I'd have to go back and look at the photos, but the two threads method works well, even if it is not to procedure; one of them was written by a Nissan/Infinity master mechanic. Are you sure you have the tensioner spring set up correctly?? B
  3. If that is the bearing that is worn... Generally, people will replace all the bearings and syncros usually bought in a kit. If you are already in there, may as well do it all. Here is an idea for pricing, looks like the bearings are $25 there... http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_fs5r30a_overhaul_kit.html B
  4. Your screen name as in Login Name?? You have to bribe an Admin for that. If you mean something else, yes, you should be able to change it but I have to understand what it is before I can explain it. What part of what is displayed do you want to change? What does it say now? B
  5. Commuting to work in town, 45 mph street with stoplights, 7 miles one way and running various errands got me 15mpg when I filled up yesterday. Yeah the gas mileage is barely acceptable stock so when you lift, etc it just drops... B
  6. Soon, but not yet. I changed manual tranny amount from 1.5 to 5.1... Lets take the time to put the unit of measurement next to each quantity, just for clarification and the numbers have not been double checked yet. I'll try to get to it later, then we can clean up and pin... Thanks and good job Pinky!! B
  7. We are going to need you to come in and take a written test... B
  8. So, would you have drilled into anything?? Any pictures?? Yes, I hear you about the long step drills, but I have found some that start at 1/4" and I don't have to go larger than 3/8 so pentration would only be about 1/2 inch. Yeah, the chips are something I've thought of, but I think I can minimize that using a shop vac. We'll see, I don't have a rack yet... B
  9. And that has to do with the thread topic how?? B
  10. Thanks for the information though, someone will need it. A simple FYI, the WD21 stud thread pitch is M8x1.25. B
  11. I plan to do the same thing if I can ever find a X rack locally, but minus the sunroof issues and pulling the headlinder. I plan to go in from the top with jack nuts and seal it from above also. I really think it will work fine and make the job much easier. B
  12. Yeah, I am, but in a good way... More importantly I ride motorcycles and have crashed due to oil and antifreeze on the road before. Not funny... I understand that it weeps, but did you check under pressure?? It could be a bit worse then. B
  13. I'm going to look into grinding down a socket so just the two prongs remain. Does anyone have the dimensions (ID, OD, height, width)? B
  14. Looks like 88's ride, back when it rode... B
  15. Well, thankfully they don't get any of that up there in Canadia... B
  16. Ok, cold form tap only works when there is something left to form so forget that. Just fix the one stripped one, I wouldn't mess with the others unless you want to replace all the studs to the upgraded ones. You have the basic idea for tapping and helicoiling, and yes there are tricks to tapping straight. Use a tapping block (flat piece of metal with a hole in it just larger than the tap that you lay one the surface and tap through) or a tap guide wwhich alsp teeps the tap in alignment. Read this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=16196 For the leaking swivel fittings, I had the same problem and simply replaced them with solid barb fittings. Just cut the old hose off right at the old fitting, and slip the new barb fitting in and tighten the hose clamps. I'll have to check to see what size they were. I want to say 5/8". Read this... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20577&st=0&p=412746&hl="oil%20filter"&fromsearch=1entry412746 B
  17. Check your battery, battery contacts, ground at the chassis and motor, hot lead to the starter, etc; first for clean contact and then for voltage loss down the line. Odds are that is the problem. B
  18. Good, but, get the right line or put a hose clamp on it if it is close enough, don't count on RTV for something like this; it will let you down IMO. Then chase the rest... A cold form tap may help if there is enough thread, but no gaurentee. Yes to drill out and put in a threaded insert. Don't go deeper than it is, you may be close to a water channel. I've had good luck with Heli-coil but have not used it with this application. All in all, what ever you use, make sure to do it right the first time. I'm a machinist, so if you have any questions, ask... Are they the swivel fittings?? Mine leaked also so I replaced them with solid units... Regardless, if it leaks, you have to replace it with something better. B
  19. Plan to revisit this soon and do it right. Don't pollute, drop fluid that could cause someone to crash or risk springing a leak that could strand you and/or cost a lot... B
  20. Other than the stock intake low on the drivers front corner... Control air intake points and I agree. B
  21. Nice!! I'm glad you got it together!! The accessory belts?? If so, 'balls tight' can lead to premature bearing/bushing failure. General rule of thumb: longest span of belt, mid point vertical deflection total travel with 'moderate' pressure = 1/2 inch. Inspect the pulleys. If they are glazed, scuff them up with some 320 grit sand paper... B
  22. Good point. Even better. I think I would lean toward the X but I have not driven one, and I certainly would not rule out an R50 as I 1/2 own one. How it is set up and how you drive it makes as much difference as the chassis type. I would definitely focus on the VG33 motor, regardless. The VQ35 seems decent but the VG is a champ; don't make max HP a consideration. Oh, and get your Honda out of the creek, you idiot!! B
  23. Cool!! I wish!! I'd like to get some camping and wheeling in but it isn't going to happen this year. I asked for 3 days off this summer and got 2 of them. What a year!! B
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