Precise1

I believe all that is correct but I haven't done the comparison myself. Go to a site like Rock Auto and look up the part numbers for different years to see if they are the same. Also, the 90-95 manual trannys are not junk, they just have a lubing issue due to a lower fill level. There is a TSB about overfilling to 5.1 liters. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621 All they did for the later year trannys was raise the fill hole. Also, it may be worth simply having yours rebuilt. Ask around for a quote... B

Did you want me to move this over to the Pictures and Video section? Oh, wait, it is already there... Double post. Try linking if you must but otherwise avoid it, please. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28996 B

Switches (illuminated) to relays under the hood via a 4 strand 12 gauge wire. What the hell is "3m's to the dash"?? *worked for 3M* B

Yes, a few people have. IIRC one was made from a donor out of another vehicle (width is the key) and another was made out of a roll up type window shade which can be ordered to any length. I know the R50's have them stick but I haven't measured it is test the compatability. B

If they are wet ground as they should be, there will be no need for hardening as they will not be annealed. I believe that the some of the reason JW cams are more expensive is because they have a lot more grinding to do from blanks than regrinding like the Schneider units, it doesn't necessarily mean they are better. Just something to remember... B

Duly noted and added. That is the first quote you mean, right?? B

My truck does a similar thing, but it never dies (not cold enough here I suppose). I never looked into it as it isn't a real problem. Running rich is normal, because I believe the ECU runs in open loop mode until it warms up, circa 160+ degrees IIRC. It couldn't hurt to check the resistance/voltage outputs of the O2, TSP and scheck the MAF wiring/connector. B

Yes, it sounds like it could be a leaking injector. B

Yep, like he said, it is quite straight forward once the intake plenum is removed. Remember, the injectors are color coded so make sure the replacements are all the same and buy a seal kit for each. You'll be back in style better than before ZB!! B

Quality pads, drilled/slotted rotors, stainless steel braided lines and synthetic brake fluid. B

Yes, I suspect that the belt is slipping also. B

You could possibly get away with something as simple as a 1/2 grommet or plug (rubber or plastic) and some quality RTV. Is it a clean hole and where is it located? B

Ok, I would... 1)Check the resistance of the O2 sensor (information in the FSM). Replace with spare if out of range. 2)Clear codes, run and retest (obd2 reader) 3)Appraise us of the next reading. Knock sensor error code can be triggered by multiple things. Clear one code at a time and retest, it's the best way to do it. A basic OBD2 reader can be had for $50 now and are a must for OBD2 equipped vehicles. B

Very good point, but then why run the welded diff?? It might work in a few situations, but at that point, I'll just use my winch... B

Hey there and welcome. You have the VQ35 motor and I am not familiar with them so I can't identify it, sorry. This would get more attention as a technical question in the R50 section, so I'm moving it and leaving a link... B

Simply put, the search function is a bit... frustrating. I can't seem to find a thread that is up to date or covers everything so I'm going to try to search/copy/edit together a brief manual for using the search function. This is what I have so far, but please say what is missing so I can add it. Search ettiquette is recommended B

Well defined, thanks. I think there is a thread about using search, I'll go look and see if they should be combined. Yes, this search function is a bit odd and awkward, but I can usually find what I'm looking for by trying to define things several different ways/combinations. Just typing in tire definitely isn't going to get you anything useful. B

Permanent locked condition. I believe most people report that the steering becomes heavy and difficult when locked, generally people leave the front alone or install a selectable locker, usually air due to this reason. B

This is absolutely correct. I only use the cold level as a rough check when filling it. Simple, because the only time the tranny level matters is when it is running (I've never heard of anyone damaging a tranny in a cold, parked vehicle) so that is how it needs to be checked. If one has a, external tranny cooler and/or inline filter, the cold level is probably lighly inaccurate. I am not an auto tranny expert, but I have read that too much or little fluid is undesirable, listing cavatation, foaming, pressure and overflow as undesirable effects. It's not that hard to get a good reading when it is hot and adjust accordingly. IIRC the acceptable level span on the dip stick is 1 pint (.5 liter) worth of volume. B

Do you know the mileage your old Honda got?? My wife's old one could get 40+, and a pathfinder with extras can easily average as low as 18MPG so there is your difference and sorry, the Pathy is a poor choice for fuel efficiency rated in MPG. B

IIRC a procedure to test has been discussed and the sensor is sub $10. B

We bought the wife's at 4wheelparts.com. Then they called and said they were back ordered and it would be another 6 weeks. Ok, we waited and got them about 2 months later, still at the sale price. We didn't need them immediately, but yes, that is how many places operate. You should be able to cancel the order and get a refund to order elsewhere, but in our case NO ONE IN THE US HAD THE PARTS IN STOCK. B

Ok, first off, what do you consider guzzling gas?? KM/L or MPG calculated from actual mileage/fill up calculation please. You could have a bad sensor cutting your 'normal' mileage by 1/3 or so.. B

Good job, that should work fine!! I still prefer having a filter though. Here is some information on that. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29350 B

Yes, that can happen also and actually falls under the vacuum lines Adam mentioned as tune up items. Just trouble shoot as much as you can before buying parts, it can save a lot of headache and cash. Fuel pump?? Perhaps, but not first on my list. Pressure regulator or fuel filter before the pump but all are easy to check. Several people have had problems with their coolant sensors, the ECU uses it to meter fuel and a mechanic recommended it being changed at (lengthy) intervals... B