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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. I suspect that it is like adding a filter to any other unfiltered system, the first filter is going to have the shortest life, but after that the change intervals should be considerable. Also, your filter looked much larger and probably has significantly more surface area/filtering capacity than the little spin-ons I use. B
  2. Even though the system isn't as informative or convenient as OBD2, it can still point you in a specific direction and I'll happily take any info/hint I can get. In conjunction with the FSM and it's descriptions on troubleshooting malfunctioning components, it is usually enough to narrow things down quickly. B
  3. Look and ask around, depends on what you want. I have ordered some stuff from MSC as the most available/cheapest/fastest and other times gone to local salvage yards and buy steel at scrap rate. I don't believe ther is a fixed source considering the local possibilities. B
  4. ^So that is where they are hiding!! Both of these are very true but I have seen a ginormous R51 on 38s or something towing a huge boat around here so some support must be out there... I'll go ahead and say that is has a different appeal. Still, I just told my wife last night that I'm going to be looking for a salvage title unit I can pick up cheap and modify... B
  5. I'd try filling it up (overfill to 5.1 liters, the TSB about that is in the Garage/TSB section) with the proper weight dino, GL4 gear oil but leave room for a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. This might mitigate the grinding so you don't have to open it up, and even if you do have to, just drain and store it. B
  6. Yes, I have heard that you can mix color codes from the people who were selling to me, but Alkorahil here, the guy who runs an online Nissan dealership parts department, told me to make sure the colors are the same. I'll go ahead and believe him first... As for your continuing issue, my wife's R50 had an intermittent miss, but only when it was warm, then shut off and then restarted. It turns out one injector was failing only when it was warm. I was able to confirm this with an ohm meter to check the resistance, also comparing it to it's properly functioning neighbor. Go to the Garage section, look in the pinned Factory Service Manual thread, download and look in there for the proper resistance values. It will also tell you how to check the wiring to make sure that isn't the fault. I don't see why you would have damage to the injector seat. I didn't need tools, I removed and installed by hand. No, not dumb for only dealing with #1, that was the only problem cylinder on my wife's Pathy and the only one I replaced, but with a used part... B
  7. I have installed a simple inline ATF filter on the output line of the tranny on the way the the cooler, along with a temperature sensor but we'll get to that. The Derale product is virtually the same as the oil filter relocation kits so many of us use. It can be found at Summit Racing, $47 for the basic kit, $89 for the deluxe kit with temp gauge and $20 for the filter. I have found the same kit for $41, $87 and $14 for the filter here... http://polyperformance.com/shop/shop/Automatic-Transmission-Filter-Kits-p-17247.html and the filter its self for $13 here... http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/products/Chevy-GMC-Truck-Transmission-Components See how shipping costs apply to you before ordering!! My point here is that it is cheap to buy, easy to install and will help keep your ATF and tranny clean, not to mention allow you to monitor temperature if you choose so. I consider it cheap insurance and especially recommend it to those of you who insist on using the stock radiator cooler to protect against clogging. I'm about to replace mine for the first time (about 5000 miles) when I change the ATF and plan to cut it open to see what it has collected. B Updated information!! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29350&view=findpost&p=574628
  8. From what I understand, they increased the channel size in the R50 radiators so they don't clog as easily. (someone verify please) It wouldn't be a bad idea to install a tranny cooler after the radiator, allowing for faster warm up and lower running temps at the same time. When is the last time the fluid was changed?? B Check out a thread in the Garage about filters that I'm about to start...
  9. The dot or splash of paint will be on the outside top of the injector, under the connector boot IIRC so you can only see it when the wiring is disconnected. Here is a picture of a complete fuel rail system for an VG33 R50 (almost identical set up). You can see the dots on the top 3... Blue is a correct color code for that generation IIRC, as well as black and silver if I have it straight. The 6 injector colors need to match... B Oh, always replace the seals for the injectors too...
  10. Hopefully they merged with someone who values quality/consistancy and real ship dates. It seems like KMA could do quality work at times... B
  11. If I may quote myself?? Best of luck, we prefer to keep Pathys running... B
  12. Hey Bud. Not off hand, but you can go to the Garage section and there is a pinned thread for the Factory Service Manual that tells you where to download it for free. I'm sure the info is in there... B
  13. Here you go, it's pinned in the Garage section... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28134 As for oil, yes, amsol is good stuff, but so are several other good products. There are several threads talking about it as you can imagine. I don't know where off hand, but try doing an advanced search. B
  14. I have a picture of one mounted on my wife's 99.0 pathfinder. Let me know if you want me to post it... B
  15. Got it now, sorry about that. 1/2 failing reading comprehension and 1/2 as Nunya said, confused by the other links. Jeep hubs, I haven't the slightest idea. This is NPORA, not JORA... Makes sense what MY1PATH says though. B
  16. Have you been reading?? Bumper install, 1 hour minus difficulties. It really isn't hard... B
  17. Just to clarify, the autolocking hubs are on the WD21s and are generally not recommended for hard wheeling. These are found on the R50's and yes, they seem fairly stout. I removed a set from my wife's 99.0 R50 to install Mile Marker manual hubs. So the splines are the same size and count on your Dana 44?? B
  18. I hit the 105,000 mile mark with the Pathy today. B
  19. Yep. It's flexible plastic like abardbody said... B
  20. Off hand, I really don't know. What color is k9sar's Pathy?? Minime is light blue, right?? Who else is in Pa other than Nunya?? B
  21. A press, a drill, a torch. Yes, there are special tools... B
  22. I don't know what they are called, but I have a new set in the garage from when I damaged my first pathy. Odds are that you don't have to replace them, they'll bolt in straight in the new bumper... B
  23. Passenger side near the oil filter/starter?? If so, it is the oil pressure sender wire (pressure sender unit is screwed into the block next to the oil filter). If not, what the hell are you talking about?? B
  24. This is what I was going to say. The WD21 PRs are not problematic from what I know, but they can fail also. My wife's Matrix had a leaking PR and it had the same 'took a few cranks' to fire since it had to build up pressure again. Check the fuel pressure and bleed down rate (it shouldn't) and replace the inline fuel filter if you haven't recently. B
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