Precise1

Don't force the tire carrier too much, you'll bend the body sheet metal. Try a penetrant like PB blaster to get it to move, then flush it out with WD40, moving it back and forth. Finally apply oil, WD40 is crap for such things... B

I tweaked it to the photos were shown... Quite possibly!! Once again, nice work. B

Well, if you read the links... The second one is designed to be used in small enclosed spaces. I've even used mine in a tent... B

As for the fuel gauge, I don't know. I'm not good with electronics and I haven't had that problem. Go to the Garage section and look for the pinned Factory Service Manual thread, it will tell you how to download a free copy. The diagnostics in it are pretty complete... B

I'd avoid using the lights for heat, they will be too bright and make you uncomfortable. I recommend propane heaters. They are cheap to run, very effective, portable and you can monitor your fuel use up front, no surprise charges. Here are two that I have... http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRIT2?PMAKA=93178739&PMPXNO=24570766&cm_re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults This one is for my 2 car garage and is enough to keep things reasonable. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QUZGS8/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00005LEXI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0KS9SPACZA4R7C5V8C5W Mine is like this, not sure if it is the same brand (at the other house) but I love it. Plastic body and not truly rugged, but works great as a personal heater in small areas and sips fuel. Use it at home, camping, where ever... B

Do you have spark? Do you have fuel pressure? Does it actually crank at normal speed (quickly)? What does the voltage drop to while you are cranking? Something shuts off if the system voltage dorps too much. I want to say the injectors and at 10.5-11 volts but that is from faulty memory. B

So for a grand and your time and skill you have a R50 with 140k on it. That is a steal and I'm sure you'll really learn to appreciate it. Keep the pictures coming... B

I hope it goes smoothly for you!! B

We heard you the first time... B

Having recently removed the stock seats in my parts truck, I doubt you could get much more than 1-1.5" lower without a whole lot of work/issues. My recommendation is to source some other seats (maxima, xterra?) or go aftermarket. You may have to relocate the electronics under the seat to achieve 2-3" drop. B

I bought a house instead. It is sitting on a 1st class shelf in the new garage awaiting attention. I don't even have an open rear end!! Bastage!! B

^Excellent advice, especially about the locker. If you plan to do the 3" lift with 33" tires, you will want to upgrade the steering components, specifically the centerlink and an idler arm brace. Check out www.grassroots4x4.com for centerlink upgrade... B

Nice price!! Class 3 with a 2" receiver?? B

Hose pinching? I never heard of that. I use a flammable aerosol and spray around suspected leak areas. If there is a leak, usually the idle will surge. Otherwise, pinching/moving hoses can also affect the idle if it has a leak and you disturb it. I don't know that you have this problem but I have heard of too many cases of intermittent idle not to mention it. As for the EGR, the spring/diaphram should move fairly easily and it should affect RPM at some point, but I can't recall ATM so you better read up. B

Damn, that's more of an undertaking than most would try! Where were you when I needed frame work done years ago?? Hawaii?? Well, that wouldn't work either... Good luck with the project, that's far more than I have done with the wife's 1999.0. B

Without just throwing $ at it, I reccommend you follow the diagnostic all the way, it sounds like you are on the right track. I would question if you have checked for vacuum leaks and/or EGR valve function. B

IIRC, what I've read is () the rear bolts were upgraded in 1990 (North America) when the 4 door was sold and the reason was to better support the rear which was heavier (and maybe weak with a tire carrier). I'm not sure what OSR ran into, I barely remember it (no time to look now) and I installed 1/2-13 bolts myself because I had to cut the rear open and remove the welded nuts on mine. One thing I have to follow is that I wrote down the bolt diameter/pitch/length and as a machinist, I would have verified the thread before posting it. No problem questioning it and it better be right, because I'm supporting it. B

Howdy Bill, welcome back. I think you should order the parts, pull the hubs/spindle/rotor and have a shop press them in and out. The rest you can handle on a warm afternoon with a brew and a cigar. B

This has been beat up a bit before and yes, the bolts are hard to find and expensive... Maryland Metric IIFC and I can try to source my local 'reliable hardware and steel' who has always impressed me. Exactly what size/pitch/length bolts are we talking aboot?? M10 doesn't sound right... B The size, not source thread... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5325&st=0

^^ Most off topic post so far ^^ Ok, we've covered the bitch fest, and recovered. Let's let that part die now and get back on topic. Thanks, B

I've heard stories... The shifter port is the best fill point IMO but you have have to do what gets you through the night. B

That's because you already have an air dam on the front of the basket... B

Didn't you say this in the other thread?? Once is enough, no?? Seriously, next time try to say your point in such a manner that it is informing and considered, not insulting and rejected. Thanks, B

Ok, everyone back off and cool off, OP included. Too much attitude in this thread from every direction. If it keeps up, I'll intervene... Thanks, B

Good job guys!! B