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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. #5 is is the one closest to the firewall on the passenger side, isn't it?? You should be able to get to it no problem... As for actually changing it, piece of cake. Release fuel pressure and let it back drain a bit from the fuel rails. Remove injector connector, remove top cap (2 bolts/screws), grasp injector body by hand and twist 1/8 turn back and forth while pulling and it should pop out. If a lot of gas drains into the cylinder from the fuel rails, pull the coil wire and crank the motor to blow it back out (do not smoke during this time!!). Install the new seals on the replacement injector (some people lube them lightly) and install by hand the same way as removal. Replace cap and connector, reattach fuel line and drive off. Note: Your injectors are color coded with a dab of paint on the top of the injector, covered by the connector. Only replace your injector with one of the same color code and all cylinders should have the same color injectors. Also, check the stored fault codes in the ECU, it may confirm what cylinder is faulty and you want to clear it anyway. Write up is pinned in the Garage/How To section. B
  2. Maikan, you can put a D-ring through your stock recovery loops and capture a nylon recovery strap with it. There are still metal ends involved, but everything is captured and unless you tear off a recovery point so it is far better than a hooked strap. Yes, your recovery points are held on by 3 or 4 bolts and are easy to remove. They seemed quite sturdy and well attached to me... B
  3. I'm going to scoot this over to the R50 secion off of the same page as it is model specific and you might get more response there. Also, check out the R50 FAQ section, I'm sure I've read these answers before (but can't remember)... Oh, Welcome to NPORA!! B
  4. In this case I have to agree with OSR, mainly due to the 240k on the clock. Either drive it till it drops (change the tranny fluid, overfill it, tighten the valve covers, use heavier oil/lucas oil stabilizer and it might last longer than you think) or if you can afford another one now, sell it to a kid/wheeler as a starter truck for them to fix up to difray the cost a bit. You can find (WD21) pathys with 100-150k miles for $3500 around here, R50s are a little more expensive... B
  5. I run an Optima Yellow top and use the top posts. Winch isn't installed but the set up was identical installed on the PO's truck. B
  6. No problem. I had a long day and was too tired to figure out if you were leg pulling... B
  7. Seriously?? Yes, get longer shocks and don't bother with EOM adjustable. Here... B
  8. I'm looking forward to this also. I have a lead on a 2001 R50, low miles, one owner... Nice work, you make us proud!! B
  9. Yeah, that is how the cement prefab buildings like to break up. Generally speaking, the walls fold outward or colapse and the roof drops. Not much fun for anyone!! Those idiots are sitting in the building?? I'd tell them I'd waiting in the parking lot for the meeting out there. If there is another decent quake, that building could fold!! Dumbasses is right... B
  10. Hey brotherbill, welcome to NPORA!! I'm not an expert on the early 2 door models but IIRC, the first tranny was a 3 speed without OD, not sure abut TC lockup. What size tires are you running, that is part of the equasion also... B
  11. Yes, that should work.^ You don't want to risk wearing through with vibration though so put some foam in between the filter and what it is ziptied to... B
  12. I just question who leaves a bike out in the snow... B
  13. mini wipers or go home. B
  14. Yep, it's a simple straight forward job. Hardest part is taking off the wheel, in my book... B
  15. Just a FYI. I was lucky to see one of these at the local Pick & Pull on a totaled pathy. It was bent to one side a few inches and the drivers side light guard was smashed flat so I only took the center section for $85. A come-along straightened it 1/2 way but it was a fair price regardless. B
  16. I just have to add, like Nunya said, JB weld is just what you called it, super glue for metal. Don't count on glue... Plenty of people here have parts laying around or are parting out a vehicle so you can easily/cheaply get a replacement part. What exactly is broken and post a picture of it. Also consider posting in the 'parts wanted' section... B
  17. Interestingly enough, it's the hoarders that are usually totally unprepared for adverse conditions. Suddenly they realize that they may not be able to simply go down the street to purchase what they need, so they over react and 'stock up', depleting the limited resources. I always have bottled water stored, food for a few weeks, propane heaters/stoves and now with the new house, I'll have a water filter and probably a small generator. Not a survival set up, but enough that I can manage to take care of me and mine for a little while without outside help. You never know... B
  18. Yep, that might work also. No!! Bad idea if there is gas in the cylinder!! B
  19. No worries, as long as it is fixed... I have to write everything down too. The oil changes are written on tape on the door jamb but I'm switching a note pad that is kept in the glove box for all the other fluids, etc. 4 cars and 2 motorcycles, I can't remember when I rotated that ones tires or replaced the diff oil... B
  20. Get a snatch block and an extra strap so you still have some cable range and that should make the winch usable again... B
  21. Yes, that's why I'll do it. I was too busy stripping other parts today, but tomorrow I should wrap it up and be able to take the measurements again. Then it gets towed... As for coin, I don't know how to weld (that would be the best fab method), nor do I have the time to deal with it now. When I post them, it is for anyone to use. B
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