Precise1

Stop post whoring (making idiotic statements and trying to have the last word) Tungsten. The same statement 3x is unwarranted. B

Almost everyone reuses the snap ring, just be gentle with it and no issues. I can't recall the O-ring, but unless it is torn or damaged I see no reason not to simply clean and re-grease. If I have time, I'll dig out the auto hubs I have in the garage to look... B

Thanks for keeping us appraised and thanks for the samples Bama. B

x2, use the gasket and apply a thin film on both sides. Allow it to tack slightly and stick the gasket to the head, and then install the headers. Remember, the torque is light on the header bolts, 12-15 ft/lbs IIRC. B

I wouldn't even try. Put the carrier back on with new bushings or put the sapre in a roof basket. B

I use the copper in the tube for exhaust work and that is exactly what is helping seal my Thorley headers... B

I have not seen the AVM hubs, but they seem like a good product on the web. The best budget units are the Mile Markers on sale at www.4wheelparts.com for about $90. If they will ship to you that might be considered also... Yeah, good parts for these aren't always easily found for a good price. B

No concern about flying items in a bad case scenario? B

You can also get JDM motors that get changed out at 60,000 miles or whatever. I know there are several threads about sources, I just don't know the info off hand... B

Derek, here is a picture of what I use. Nothing fancy, but it is lockable (if only against honest people) and could be bolted to the floor as well. I keep mine loose but strapped down tight against the back of the seats. The bag on the left is an emergency road kit with everything from a cheesy air compressor to a first aid kit and wool blanket. The bag on the right is my tool bag with enough tools to repair anything I could/would on the side of the road. It leaves plenty of room for other use as well... B

Front is cranked too high by about .5-1" IMHO and the sway bar needs loosening? Otherwise, looks good and I'm glad you found what you wanted... Oh, sorry I only tried once, but I couldn't find the one that was advertised locally. Shady-R-US for sure... B

If you ran it low enough to run out of gas, a new fuel filter can't hurt, especially if it hasn't been changed for a while. You tend to suck up any crap on the bottom... As for the MAF, I have heard people complain of problems after using MAF cleaner (seriously). I recommend removing the MAF and clean the elements with a Q-tip and alcohol. Be gentle, of course. Make sure that no connection is broken. Reinstall and look at the wiring clip. Are all the pins there, all the wire attached? Reconnect and run it; any difference?? B

x2 B

The only 3 reasons to keep the auto locking hubs are convenience, if you will never use them and zombies. Seriously, with zombies you don't want to get out of the truck! Some of the reasons to switch them is that they are inherently more reliable/stronger than auto hubs and you have the 2wd lo option which could be handy in several scenarios, especially front end hop. They look bette, and with them periodically on sale at 4wheelparts.com for about $80-90 it's not like a major expense. Obviously with an R50, it's a no-brainer to replace the drive flanges with manual hubs. The auto hubs would fit an R50 with minor modification to the end of the spindle too. I'm not trying to convince anyone to swap them out, just stating my opinion. I kept the auto hubs on my first WD21 and put Warn Premium on my second one and have not wheeled it yet. My view on the convenience factor is that if they ever let you down and leave you stuck (at best), that inconvenience will be far greater than the sum of the manual locking hub inconvenience. B

Thought it was 1993 cut off for the timing belt difference. The older models will have square teeth and the 'new' design of the late WD21 vg30-vg33 r50 will have round tooth. At least when you see it, you can tell. If it needs it, a major tune up. Dizzy cap/rotor (cant get to the plugs and wires without), clean the MAF, how's the air filter? Timing? Injector cleaner? B

Untrue. They attach the same way with the same bolts or studs so how are they more difficult? x3 on using upgraded fasteners. I had some grade 10.9 M8x1.25x30mm socket head cap screws laying around that worked perfectly so studs aren't the only option. BTW, in the future could you please put some relevant description/key words in the thread title? It helps our already feeble search function and makes it easier to identify what the thread is about for future reference. Thanks! B

You might want to consider investing in an aftermarket air intake and at least a cat back exhaust system. Not too expensive and will probably be the best bang for buck you can do... B

Hey, how does that thing handle the elevation?? I took my old 95xe 5 speed up to Tahoe and it about choked going over the passes. Maybe the ECU never adjusted, but I was surprised by the power loss... B

Looks sharp!! That's a good find for $2500 too!! Hell, you weren't 60 miles away; shoulda come by and said hi... B

Not necessarily... Here is Seeeevo's thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=31343 Thanks for the heads up though, I have the shorty in nickel chrome and am quite happy with them! B

No worries Man, you get the idea. Yeah, if it has to do with Pathfinders, the info is probably here... B

Take this the right way, please, but check your manuals or the pinned thread on fluids for the information. Two things I will point out is that the tranny must have GL-4 only (or applicable synthetic such as Redline MT-90) and must be 'overfilled' with 5.1 liters, easiest through the shifter hole. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28134 B

Ahh, ok, that makes sense also. Damn, he put a lot of $ into that Pathy!! Check the bearings, a lot of times you can just repack and re-torque them if they haven't been damaged. I doubt they changed the fluid unless they opened the case for some reason, also unlikely. When I get a vehicle that I plan to keep, I usually change all the fluids. It's not hard or expensive and it resets the clock for PM... I have Haynes and Chilton in the garage with the FSM on the computer. I use them all at some point, but you can't go wrong with the FSM... B

You are welcome, glad you got it done!! How did you finally get them loose? B

Good Point!! B