vengeful

Whoa Deej...Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Glad the familly are all OK, and the Truck looks fine! That'll buff out!

That sounds like a U-joint Jay.

Well..take during pics, too! If it wasn't so DAMN cold out...I'd be doing the same thing... And, they're calling for 7-10" of snow tonight... -bounce-

Hey...side lights? I like it. Let's get some more pictures, man!

Save the postwhoring for the postwhore thread. Don't make me break out the big moderators stick....

The trailing arm is the long straight bar like arm that connects the axle to the "frame". I have to replace my bushings there, too.

I leave the t-case in 2hi, and just grab the shaft of the CV and spin. That works for me.

Great. I'm going to be needing new rotors soon because they've been turned one-too-many times, and the runout is starting to get out of spec again. I'm definitely going to go with those. I notice that I get a TON of brake fade while driving down certain trails (Turtle Trail at Paragon for example, its a 1.8 mile long descent down the side of a mountain), when I get to the bottom, I have to stop and let my brakes cool for like 15-20 minutes. $200 ain't bad considering stock rotors are $50/each.

I change my plug wires, cap and rotor each time I change my spark plugs (40k intervals). I think I'm working on about 15k with the current set, and no problems thus far. I had original plug wires on my truck until 90k miles when I changed out the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and did a major service on the truck. Took me 2 whole days, but it was worth it. I got 2-3mpg back and the truck seemed a lot more happy. Before doing the 90k, I was noticing an intermittent miss while decellerating. I also removed, cleaned and rebuilt the fuel injectors, replaced the fuel filter and ran a bottle of that fuel treatment stuff to clear out the fuel lines. Truck runs beautifully now...well, except for the squeal from my PS belt and my manifold tick. Argh.

We took a bone stock R50 to Paragon Adventure Park in January 2005 on bald all-season tires. The only thing that stopped him all day was a slope that was covered completely in slick, glass ice. One could argue that his tires were at fault, but a dual locked SAS Toyota pickup, on brand new 37" MTRs, with dual t-cases and 5.14s couldn't make it up the hill and had to winch out. Also, I can't forget to mention that the snow was falling at a rate of 2-3" per hour all day long, and it never got about 0°F. My lifted Pathy actually got stuck on something he made it over. Though, that was entirely my fault and not the fault of the truck. I saw the tracks all the way to the right, and I though, aw hell, I'll go left....BAM...hi-centered. D'oh! A quick snatch from the truck behind me and I was moving again, so quickly, that they didn't even have a chance to run back and get a picture...hehehe.

I agree here...you ain't tryin hard enough! And Luker...whachu talkin bout Willis? His sig is no bigger than GGs, and you don't bitch about that. Tell us why you're really complaining, is it that pretty R50 in it? Are you jealous of his VQ35? Or is it the Nav System you secretly lust for?

You'll want to use a least 10ga wire or larger for the power wire though. What is the current draw and wattage of each light?

I installed mine because of my lift and to alleviate wear on the front half-shafts. I also noticed a VERY SLIGHT (~1-1.5mpg) increase in fuel economy, with the hubs unlocked. That's due to less rotational inertia in the drivetrian, so less drivetrain power loss as the front drivetrain isn't spinning with the wheels. You are correct, you cannot shift into 4wd on-the-fly with the hubs unlocked. Well, you COULD, but you wouldn't go anywhere, because the front wheels would be disconnected from the drivetrain. I actaully made that mistake at Corolla, NC once. We drove down the peninsula about 40 miles one day, so I aired the tires back up and unlocked the hubs. Then when I got back to the beach, I forgot to lock in the hubs, cuz I forgot that I had unlocked them, and assumed they were still locked. Well, the truck drove just like it did in 2WD, but with the front drivetrain spinning freely in the hubs. D'oh!

[PostJack] DJ, where'd you get CD Brembos? How have they been? Did you notice any difference in braking? [PostJack]

:sniff: :sniff: We miss you dearly...

McBain - err...Vsicks....chill out bro. This is a public forum, where individuals can post their theories, opinions and experiences. You take this stuff way too seriously. :eek:

I've actually discovered that it's easier to replace the whole axle than it is to replace the CV. The axles come fully assembled, and you don't have to worry about taking off the old boot and greasing the sucker up. To get a new boot would have cost me $40 + ~$5 for grease + tax. I found a reman at CarQuest for $68 + core ($40). I've kept all my old axles with torn boots for trail spares. The last time I changed the axle it took me all of 45 minutes.

I'll keep my caR50 thank you very much.... :oops:

Your rear axle is going to be the Nissan H233b with a 9.17" ring gear. Your gear ratio should be as Luker said 4.625:1. However, there is a way to check that. On your drivers door jamb, there should be a sticker with a lot of numbers and stuff on it. Find the Axle Code. If it says HG46, you've got the 4.625. If it says HG43, you've got the 4.36.

I definitely agree with Luker on the Synth Rope...that would be a high recommendation in my book no matter what winch you end up with.

Can't really offer any specific help on your engine Slick, but be sure you go slow, take your time and mark EVERYTHING. Good luck, you'll do great!

It's probably a vacuum line. I'd get it replaced ASAP so it doesnt fail again. They're not expensive, and you can do it yourself in a matter of minutes if you can reach where it goes.

True...I was just stating the obvious. LOL. I do not have a winch at this point, but when I do get one, the choice is between the Warn XD9000 and the Superwinch EP9.0. I have seen too many MileMarker winches fail in action to recommend them.

Shrockworks uses round tubing for their sliders, so its just a matter of personal preference, or what you can get your hands on. Square tubing is easier to stand on as a step rail, but round works just as well for rocker protection. Correct, most of the attacking is from beneath. I have never actually encountered a situtation where I had to pivot on my slider from the side. The "outrigger" is nice to have to stand on to load stuff into the roof basket though. They are primarily for protection of the body, however, they also act as a sort of frame skidder guide....so you want them close to the body, but also close to the frame line.