vengeful

I have both the PDF version of the FSM as well as the Haynes, and I must say that I reference the Hayne's a LOT more than the FSM.

Ok....so, first you steal my TJM....then you steal my winch....then you steal my thunder on the rear bumpers.... It's official...I hate you. :P

That doesn't mean anything fueler. If you had taken the time to read his post, you would have know that he has an oversized battery and cannot access the bulb from the rear. Sorry OR, I don't have a diagram of your headlights...I'll page Pezzy for ya though.

Wow....I just realized I never replied to this thread!!! Thanks for the bump MZ! I don't remember how I found NPORA, but it was back in the old purple forum days...then I went away for a while and came back to it to find this new fantabulous forum setup and haven't left since....hehe... I think I lurked around on here under an assumed name for a while before I reregged as Vengeful though...who knows.

Not to postjack or anything, and definitely not to draw away from BPAs business, but I've got a guy in Phoenix who is going to be making rear tire carrier bumpers for the R50s. Check out the R50 Tire Carrier thread for more info. They are a lot simpler than what you had described though. Link to the thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=8486

Just a little clarification, these are for the front.

Hmm...wierd, mine didn't have one. Maybe that is part of the Towing Package....

There are already provisions for hi-lift mounts. He will not put a Jerry Can mount on the tire carrier for safety's sake. If you get rear-ended and the can ruptures and something sparks....KABOOM. He does make these little adventure rack type things that are similar to those back-racks found on some Jeeps that slide down into the top of the carrier in either 24"x17" or 36"x17". Not sure on a price for those, because I didn't ask.

How To Gain Full Control Over The Fog Lights On A 1996-1999 Nissan Pathfinder/Infiniti QX4: This mod is guaranteed to work on all 1996-1999 R50 Nissan Pathfinders and Infiniti QX4s, assuming you do it correctly. This WILL NOT work on 99.5-2004 Pathfinders. For a how to for 99.5-2004 Pathfinders, Click Here . This mod will give you full control over your fog lights, as well as give constant power to the rear power socket (if so equipped). To complete this mod, you must modify two (2) relays in the relay box just above the driver side strut tower. The relays modified are the Power Socket relay and the FR Fog relay. New OEM relays are about $12-$13 from a dealer, so I chose to buy 2 #275-226 relays from Radio Shack for $6 each. To complete this mod you also will need a set of needle nose pliers, a flathead screwdriver, and a soldering iron/gun. 1. Start by pulling the Power Socket and FR Fog relays, be sure to be careful when removing them, so you do not break the clip. Put them in the glove box, in case you want to un-do this mod in the future. 2. Open one of the Radio Shack relays by running a flat head screwdriver around the cap, it should pop off. You should notice the contactor arm and a small piece of metal next to it. Bend this metal so the relay stays closed all the time. It should not move. Put the cap back on and install this relay in the Power Socket position. You now have constant power to your rear power socket. 3. The Fog Light relay modification is slightly more involved. There are 4 prongs protruding from the bottom of the relay, marked 85, 86, 87, and 30/51 (on one of mine it was marked 30/51, and the other was marked only 51). GENTLY grap the prong marked 31/50 with the needle nose pliers. Rock it back and forth until the prong comes off. Now you have a 3-legged relay. 4. Open the relay using the flat head screwdriver using the same method as above. Using a small amount of wire (I only needed ¾” of 20 gauge wire, and I removed some strands from it) and a soldering iron/gun, connect 30/51 and 85. They should be clearly marked both on the outside of the relay, and on the package. 5. Once the solder cools, recover the relay and install into the FR Fog relay socket. You now have full control over your fogs. You no longer have to have your headlights on to have the fog lights on, but be careful to turn the off when you leave the car. It is very easy to forget to turn them off during the day, as there will be no dash light or warning tone telling you they are on. Note: If you screw up and mess up your car, I am in NO way responsible for your own mistakes. I have performed this modification on my own vehicle and it works properly. If you have any questions, or concerns, feel free to email me. Warning: This mod WILL cause your vehicle to FAIL a state Safety Inspection. Inspectors check that the fog lights turn off when the high beams are activated, and this mod prevents that. It is advised that you keep your original relay and switch them before getting your inspection done.

How To Build An In Car Camera/Camcorder Mount For Less Than $40 (if you shop wisely). I was able to get all the parts at my local Home Depot 24-Hour SuperCenter, Lowe’s also carries the parts, but they were out of the tubing. For this mod you will need: - 3x ¼”x2 ½” Bolts - 1x ¼”x1 ½” Bolt (Or whatever size bolt your Camera Ball Mount takes, mine took a different size, but many take ¼”) - 3x ¼” Hex or Lock nuts - 7x ¼” Lock Washers - Several inches of ½” Plastic Hosing - 1x 1”x48” Aluminum Square Tubing (or Box Aluminum depending on what store) - 4x 1”x1” Plastic Square End Caps - Compact Camera Ball Head (You can get one from B&H Photo) or your local camera shop (a film store will not carry this item). - Electrical tape - You will also need a drill with various bits ( ¼”, 3/8”, ½” are all necessary), something to cut the aluminum with (a hacksaw or a rotary cutter will work fine), and something to clean up the cuts (I used a Dremel). 1. Cut the aluminum to the proper lengths (will vary from car to car, for a Pathfinder/QX4 the short piece is 11” and the long piece is 22”, an Integra takes 8” and 16”). It varies depending on the width of the seat, how far the headrest posts are apart and how much space there is between the seats. You want the camera to sit about halfway between the seats, just slightly to the passenger side. You can cut the lengths to suit. Tape the two pieces together using electrical tape. Mark the locations of the headrest post holes (will be on the wide side, and should be right in the center halfway on each piece of aluminum) and the holes for the ¼” bolts (should be on the narrow side (to hold the two pieces together). Also mark a place for a ¼” (or whatever size the ball mount takes) where you want the camera to sit on the long piece. 2. Drill the 3 ¼” holes with a ¼” drill bit, and the hole at the end (if ¼”). Bolt the two pieces together using the three 2 ½” long bolts and nuts. Use lock washers. If you have not already drilled the hole in the end, now is a good time to do it. 3. Drill the holes for the headrest now, assuming you were careful where you marked them that you will not be drilling through a bolt. If you are in danger of drilling through a bolt, shift the headrest one direction or the other. There should be only one bolt between the two posts, the other two bolts should be on the outside. Be VERY careful when drilling these holes as the bit has a tendency to bite into the aluminum, since you will be drilling between the two tubes. I strongly recommend that you start with a smaller bit (1/4” or smaller and drill all the way through and then step up slowly to the final ½” size (or whatever the diameter of your headrest posts, most are ½”). 4. Once you have drilled the holes, you should go back and clean up the holes to remove any excess aluminum that may still be stuck there. I used a Dremel with the round sanding block, however regular sand paper will work fine. 5. Take the rubber hose and cut it into 3 pieces slightly longer than 1”. Cut each piece up one side, and cut it so it makes a ½” semicircle. (Note: ½” hosing, when cut it half, makes smaller than a ½” semicircle, so it will not fill the hole fully. Home Depot does not sell this size hose in less than 10’ increments, so if you mess up, you’ll have plenty extra, don’t worry about overpaying its only $1.98.) 6. Next you’ll want to put the hoses into the holes and wrap the aluminum around the headrest loosely. Then bolt it all together. Screw on the ball mount. Mount your camera, and go get some kick ass footage! Note: You can get a SLIK ball mount online for less than $30. My Home Depot tab came out to be about $15 because I did not have the proper drill bits available, however, the bits added up to more than $5. If you have any questions, feel free to email me. You have just created an in-car camera mount for less than $40, if you shopped wisely.

Unfortunately I have no pictures available for this, as I had left my camera at school when I performed this. I'll try to be as detailed as possible. If you have any questions, you can IM me on AIM at Find4Path. If you run aftermarket stereo equipment or off-road lights, then you should definitely perform this mod. It is actually quite simple to do if you have a power drill and grinder. Air tools help A LOT! Parts Necessary: - 125A Quest Alternator (2000-2003) - 5/8" washers (total thickness about 1/4" Tools Necessary: - 12 mm Socket - 12 mm Box End Wrench - 14 mm Socket - 21 mm (Impact) Socket - Strap wrench or similar device to hold pulley in place while loosening/tightening. - 3/8" Drive Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Ratchet - 3/8" Drive Air-Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Impact Wrench - Power Drill - 17/32" Drill Bit - 4" Power Angle Grinder - Service Manual of some sort Other Recommended Items: - Mechanix Brand or similar Gloves - Duct Tape - Band-Aids - Battery/Alternator Testing Tool ($9 at Advance) - Channel Lock Pliars The first step to successful completion of this modification is to source a working Quest/Villager alternator. I found mine for $35 at a local junkyard. If you go this route, be sure you have it bench tested at 2 different places. Most reputable junkyards will take back a non-working alternator that they sold as working, if you have documentation that it is not performing properly from bench testing. Secondly, before I dive into the steps, you need to be certain that you are capable of performing this operation. It was the single most physically painful job I have ever performed while working on any of my cars, and I've pulled motors and complete drivetrains without the help of a lift. The alternator weighs upwards of 25-30lbs, so you need to be sure you can hold that weight steady for extended periods of time while attempting to line up the bolt holes. Ok, here we go. Steps: 1. Disconnect the battery ground. 2. Loosen the tension on the alternator belt by using the adjustment bolt for the idler pulley located to the right of the alternator. If you have access to air tools, you might want to use them for this step. The rotation on the adjustment bolt is opposite of what you would think. To loosen tension, "tighten" the bolt. This brings the idler/tensioner up and removes the tension in the belt. Once the belt is sufficiently loose, slide it off the pulley, while being careful not to damage it. The adjustment bolt is 12mm. 3. Disconnect all wires from the alternator. Be careful not to damage the plastic clip of the harness or the rubber boot on the output cable. You may need to spray PB on the ground wire screw to get it loose. I had to use Channel Lock Pliars to remove the screw, because my screw drivers stripped it. The nut holding the output wire on is 12mm. 4. Unbolt the bottom (long) bolt from the alternator housing. If you have access to air tools, you may want to use them for this step. The radiator hoses tend to get in the way, but you can push them off to the side while you unbolt it, however, be careful not to rip or puncture it. 5. Support the alternator from the side. 6. Unbolt the top bolt. The alternator will want to fall onto the crossmember and damage the pulley. If the pulley has the slightest knick in it, it can cause damage to your belt. 7. Once you get everything disconnected and unbolted, it is time to remove the alternator from the engine bay. However, I learned the hard way that this is easier said than done. If you rotate the alternator so the bolt tabs are closer to the motor, and pull it out pulley first through the gap by the battery, it'll wiggle out eventually. Don't be afriad to put some force on it, but be careful not to damage anything in the process. 8. Now remove the pulley from the Pathfinder Alternator. You'll have to chuck it somehow so it doesn't rotate when you go to loosen the nut holding it on. Do the same on the Quest alternator. The Pathfinder pulley has 5 ridges, the Quest only has 4, so it will not work with the Pathfinder belt. The nut from the Pathfinder alternator will not work on the Quest, and the Pathfinder pulley is narrower at the base than the Quest. Slide the Pathfinder pulley onto the shaft, and slide the 5/8" washers on as well. You'll need enough washers to completely cover the shaft up to where the threads begin, otherwise the pulley will be loose. Hand tighten the Quest nut, and chuck the pulley. Then torque it down. 9. The prep work is almost complete. However, the holes for the bolts on the Quest alternator are not large enough to accomodate the bolts on the Pathfinder. You will have to drill them out using a 17/32" drill bit. However, be sure you cover the open vents on the alternator with duct tape before grinding or drilling on the alternator to avoid metal shavings/chips from entering and potentially damaging your alternator. 10. Once you get the holes reamed out, you'll have to grind down the tabs slightly so the bolts can sufficiently pass through them and have enough threads to hold the alternator in place. 11. Installation is the same as removal, but the Quest alternator is heavier and slightly larger than the Pathfinder alt. Also, be sure you tighten the hell out of the output wire nut, otherwise you'll run into the problem I ran into. You might want to pad your palm before doing this because you'll need to put some serious torque on it to get it to connect properly. Be sure you do not reconnect your battery until EVERYTHING is complete and properly connected, tightened. Did you remember to screw in the ground wire? The Problems and Tips: I had failed to sufficiently tighten the nut on the output wire, and when I tried to start the truck, it would arc, and cause the failsafe to kill the electrical system. After a few seconds it would reset, and after numerous tries, I was ready to shoot something. Well, I realized that the nut wasn't as tight as it should be when I started tightening it with the battery connected (oh yeah, NEVER DO THAT), and it sparked like hell and shocked the living crap out of my arm. Have you ever had 14VDC shoot through a steel wrench into your arm? Yeah, it hurts. Also, when I had first swapped the pulleys, the Quest alternator rolled off my workbench onto the floor and bent the pulley. Be VERY VERY careful with the pulley as they are $76 from the dealer, and the dealer is the ONLY place that will sell you just the pulley. Be ready to have to use plenty of PB Oil if your truck has seen some life. Nissan likes to put all sorts of little sharp plastic clippies all over the engine bay in the most inopportune spots. I suggest you wear long sleeves and gloves to avoid painful, and often blood spilling injuries. I recieve more little cuts trying to get that damn alternator out than I have recieved in all my working on a car combined...well, except that time I kicked the windshield out of my VW Rabbit....but that's another story. Be extra careful when tightening down the output wire cable nut, as your wrench can easily slip off the nut and smash your hand firmly against the frame extension rail. I've got a nice black and red thumb and nail thanks to that one. Have plenty of light to work with. I suggest picking up a 500/1000W Work Light from Sears. They only run about $30-$40 and are absolutely invaluable for any garage or shadetree mechanic. Well, that's about it. If you have any questions feel free to IM me at Find4Path on AIM. Good luck with your swap.

What did you notice that was different? If it's significant, I'll add it to the post in the Garage.

No, the transmission cooler is built into the radiator. I'm guessing that is either an aftermarket cooler, or an oil cooler.

There's some more info here: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showfla...sb=5&o=&fpart=1

It's been done before....there's a big writeup about it here: http://www.overlandtrucks.com/system-f/NPTC.pdf

Do you have any weight in the back of the truck? Subwoofers, stuff? It definitely looks odd in the photo, but can't be sure whether it actually is sagging or not. Nissan trucks are supposed to have a positive rake (higher in the rear than the front) for optimal handling performance. It is possible that the springs are tired and can't support the load as well as they used to.

DO NOT DO THIS!!! Not only will you create more trouble for yourself, as the wires are not color matched to the head unit, but you will prevent anyone who buys the vehicle from putting a stock stereo back in, or putting a different stereo in without a great hassle. Also, if you mess up, and the wires get burnt, you'll burn up ALL the wires, not just a harness. I have seen many times people would come into stereo shops and be like...yeah, my CD player stopped working, I need a new one, and buy a new one and have us install it, and when we tore into the dash, we'd find a rats nest of wires and the factory plugs hacked off and we'd end up having to rewire the entire car. :furious:

Yes, it is a double DIN setup. With a double-DIN radio, you do not need any sort of dash kit. Crutchfield has a lot of inaccuracies on their site, so I tend not to trust them for fitment. They claim that the rear speakers on my truck are 4".

No, he's not in the Northeast, he's here in Arizona. The latching mechanism is a very tight pin system. I shook around one on the back of his truck and it moved the truck. I wouldn't use the D-rings on there as recovery points. They are more of a tie-down type hookup and are intended as the safety loops for the tow-hitch. You can put a D-ring in the reciever to use as a recovery point or weld on some 1/4" plate to use as a shackle mount. In light of my recent monetary issues, it will probably be sometime next month.

That is the standard style shown...they dont make wrap-arounds frequently, and don't have pictures online for those. The wings are the pieces that would make it a wrap-around, and they would go all the way up to the rear wheel well along the side of the truck. This would replace the entire factory bumper assembly, including the cheesy weak mounts. It is a swing-away carrier, so the tire carrier swings away to the passenger side for hatch access. Those prices are NOT shipped, shipping would be extra. Like I said before, he is not very enthusiastic about shipping these because of the wings, and the fact that they would have to be shipped incomplete due to size and the last set of welds would have to be laid by the purchaser, though, I am sure he'd be willing to ship if it brought him more business....money is money right?

Ok, well....here's the scoop. There are two options. The first being that it doesn't wrap around the sides, and that'll run about $385-400. The one that does wrap around the sides will be about $425-440. Not terrible at all, especially if you look at some of the big name carriers like Warn or Shrockworks... The only thing is that he would have to ship the wrap-around style in two pieces and you'd have to finish welding it together or have someone weld the "wing" pieces on, because it would be too big to ship via standard shipping carriers. They could be freighted but that would be a real hassle and he wont do that. He also doesn't paint or coat them in any way, because he's had problems with people reversing the charges when the bumper arrived scratched, not that it's that big of a deal to grab a can of Rustoleum and spray it down... It'll be this style... He's also looking into making rear bumpers for the WD21s as well.

He runs a small business doing this and makes them for several applications and sells on eBay already. So, I doubt it'll be a problem on shipping them. Oh, and Happy NPORA Anniversary Trialsin!

I've got an appointment for tomorrow to meet up with the guy and take measurements and check out the schematics of everything... I'll keep y'all updated.

Nice Rami!!! I've got an XD-40 back east...should have brought it with me, but I wasn't exactly comfortable transporting multiple weapons across state lines. I might be picking up the new 2006 XD .45ACP here pretty soon. Oh, and my b-day is May 13! WIERD!

Ahhhhh! The three most hated words in the car enthusiasts vocabulary..."call the stealer"...