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Everything posted by vengeful
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Don't get it on your hootus either. (I'll post the link from home for those who don't remember that one.)
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NEED HELP ASAP - Dealer waiting for a call back...
vengeful replied to rmd0311's topic in The Garage
That's State Farm slick.... -
NEED HELP ASAP - Dealer waiting for a call back...
vengeful replied to rmd0311's topic in The Garage
You can get the Haynes at Autozone or the like. It's about $15. -
NEED HELP ASAP - Dealer waiting for a call back...
vengeful replied to rmd0311's topic in The Garage
The best thing you can do is pick up a service manual and thumb through it. The Hayne's alone is junk, but alongside the factory service manual, I've been able to do everything I've needed to on my truck. -
NEED HELP ASAP - Dealer waiting for a call back...
vengeful replied to rmd0311's topic in The Garage
Hate to say it....but that's what you get for living in NYC...everything is more expensive. I payed $134.99 for my lifetime alignment from Firestone. Check those moneysaver mailer things, they send out coupons in those every now and then. -
NEED HELP ASAP - Dealer waiting for a call back...
vengeful replied to rmd0311's topic in The Garage
Alignment is way high. You can get a lifetime alignment, balance and rotate from Firestone for $150 (which is good for free checks and adjustments for as long as you own the vehicle, and the balance/rotate is good for as long as you own the set of tires on it when you originally brought it in), or a one-time alignment, balance and rotate from Sears or the like for about $80. For a dealer, that's not a terrible price. I couldn't find it with a quick search online. Does that inclue labor, or is it just the part? $800 for an exhaust is outlandish, but about right for a factory part. Just take it to a local mom-n-pop muffler joint. They do the best work in my experience. Generally you'll want to avoid the Midas' of the world. -
Wow...I'm impressed that you could get all that done so fast. Your help must have actually known what they were doing! Still not sure what I think about the rock protection stuff.....I'd say you should even it out along the body line, might not look so...I dunno, but it's just not sitting right with me. Glad to see the ol' girl back on the road though!
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I think what Luker was trying to say, in his wierd Luker way was...Every time you wire anything it needs a fuse. And every time you wire something that is switched, you should use a relay.
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:o Don't give him ideas JJ!!! sssh
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Do you really think he'd stop? He is Mad Max afterall!
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Look at it's driver man!!! Max....I've told you before, and I'll tell you again. THINK about this stuff man!
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Would make off-camber situations slightly less harrowing though....
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I must've heard differently. I heard SMOG.
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I've heard that about ARB Mattie....that's BS!
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Yeah man...same here. I can even accept a check or credit card over the phone....
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I found the old NPORA purple text forums...wandered around for a while...got annoyed with the primitive setup, explored elsewhere, found NOR (got in a squabble with Medhi and got banned), then found AC, and there were too many idiots there, so I checked back here and there was this nice new forum set up....and I haven't left since.
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Settle down crouching tiger! Rookie is a guy from another board that would always ask stupid questions and give even stupider answers. Good for a laugh, but got very annoying.
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$860? Depending on where you buy it, you're looking at up to $925 for the TM lift alone! Then add $120 for the Optima Red Top.... Pathy parts are expensive... You know what they say though "4x4 in upper case is $X$"
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Or....is he making us look good? -thnkboutit- :idea:
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Rear is cake. The front is a PITA. If you don't know what you're doing when it comes to assembling struts, bring the parts to a Pep-Boys or the like (some big chain car shop) and have them assemble them. They usually only charge about $30-40 per strut and it'll take em about an hour or so. I say it's worth it to go that route. I was assembling the struts on my cousins BMW while putting in lowering springs, and one of the coil compressors let go, and the coil missed my cousin by about 8", went through the exterior garage wall and landed in the neighbors living room. It would suck to lose a leg, or your life because you wanted to save $80.
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Don't drive through tall grass...haha. As for the mud, the BFG ATs are not a self-cleaning tire, so they don't throw mud like a mud tire, so the mud will pack up in them, and the coil perch is scraping it off....There's really nothing to be done.
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Getting back on topic - You can't go wrong with the AC Lift. I've had it since 2003, and haven't had any problems. In addition to the lift, you're going to need to purchase 2 sets of the Camber Adjustmet bolts (one for each side). I also suggest getting the Manual Hubs to reduce wear on the CVs up front as they will be at an increased angle. However, by converting to the manual locking hubs, you will lose the Auto-4WD feature while the hubs are Unlocked. While the hubs are Unlocked, you can ONLY drive the vehicle in 2WD. Another big debate with the lift is what shocks/struts to get? I've heard bad things about the Rancho struts, and they're more expensive than the KYBs. Go with the KYBs. As far as shocks go, you're not going to go wrong with the Ranchos or the Bilsteins. As far as an exhaust goes....I'd suggest maybe a Thrush Turbo Muffler. They've got a nice throaty garble to them, and they're not ricey sounding. I've got a Flowmaster 40-series on my truck, and I think it sounds great. Might be too loud for some people's tastes however.
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It's not the lift that is the problem. Is the fact that with the spacers, you're extending the down-travel of the strut past the factory limits. Those factory limits were set into place for a reason....to keep the driveaxles from breaking. Don't believe me? Talk to Keith. He blew up 2 CVs in one week running 2" spacers up front - and not just torn boots...literally blown up CVs.
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Alex, don't put another spacer up front. Your CVs will hate you for it.
