vengeful

Nick...have I told you lately that I hate you... Nice bumper.

And that's how all stories that involve sheeps and Pathy's should end!

Well Scott... You're in luck! There are a few cheaper lift options, but you have to ask yourself what do you want out of the lift. Do you want more frame clearance, or do you want to fit bigger tires? A suspension lift will raise up the WHOLE truck, chassis and drivetrain included, and will allow you to fit bigger meats. However, a suspension lift also affects steering and driveline angles. A body lift, lifts the body off of the frame 2 or 3". This allows you to fit larger tires, but keeps the frame clearance the same (assuming the tires stay constant) and does not affect steering or driveline angles. There are a few options for a cheaper susp. lift than the TM kit. You can do a "poor mans" lift using front coil springs from an AWD V8 Jeep Grand Cherokee in the rear and crank up the torsion bars in the front to achieve a couple inches of lift. There is also the AC Lift Kit which is considerably cheaper than the TM, and there's a Calmini option available, too. Or you could buy a set of UCAs from Rough Country, crank the t-bars and add the JGC coils and call it a day and only spend about $250. Did you follow any of that - cuz my head is swimming right now....

When did I fall in love with my Pathy? 2 weeks and 3 days after I bought it when I spun it into a ditch at 40mph. It knocked the bumper off and crinkled the front a little bit. Any other SUV would have flipped over.

I recalled seeing a post saying that Mr.Jim no longer has a computer at home (and thus no home internet access). That's where my post came from.

My roommate bought a pair of Airlift bags for his 4Runner for $100. Yes, this is most certainly a DIY type install as all you have to do is drop the springs out of the axle and mount the bags. For the Airlift bags, you don't need to have an on-board compressor as you can fill them up with any air compressor with a standard tire inflation valve. http://www.airliftcompany.com

KM...I was thinking the SAME thing... I actually MIGHT have one. I'll have to check on that. And...and...and....I may have a computer that I could loan indefinitely to Mr.Jim if someone more local could supply a monitor for him. It would take a couple weeks to get everything up and running though - including putting NPORA as the first bookmark!

Just hide it REALLY well...and say the salvation army came and stole it!

OOOOHHHH OOOOHHHH IDEA!!! You've got a PM.

Agreed on the RS9000x Rancho shocks. You can adjust the valving on them for higher stiffness or make them softer. HOWEVER - stiffer shocks will NOT alleviate sagging with a lot of weight. Your options are to either get higher rated springs (OME Heavy Duty or AC Lift springs), or Air bags helpers that go inside of your current springs and can be aired up at a gas station tire pump to achieve the ride height you want - and then when you take off the trailer, simply release the valve in the air bag and let it back to normal. The air bags would probably be the cheapest and most customizable way to go about this.

Ahhh.... So this is a second vehicle for you? Lucky man!! Two R50s in one stable, I shouldn't be so jealous! For street duty, you cant go wrong with a QX4 - and hey, its an Infiniti...the girls will think you're LOADED! Double bonus!

As Pezzy said...there is no snorkel specifically for the R50s. The one you're thinking of P was a Japanese Terrano in New Zealand. I don't see why people were complaining so much, I think it looks great! Once I save up enough money, I'm going to be picking one up for myself. Did C4S get the ARB (long) or the TJM (short)? As for the guy who killed his motor, this is a guy I know in NY who drives a 4Runner. He generally turns his snorkel inwards so its facing over the roof, but not straight backwards, but didn't do that, because he was driving on the road, didn't see that this puddle was that deep (it was night) and just nailed it....kaboom!

Using the OBD2 scanner is basically the same as disconnecting the battery and leaving it off for about 15 minutes. It resets the ECU and all the sensors. It does show them as being NOT READY, but like I said..VA doesn't check if there's no MIL indicator. Yes, DJ, you are correct, the VCV is attached the canister. The EVAP Purge Control Valve (Not to be confused with the PCV Valve!!!!!!!!!!!!!) is under the hood - your PDF Factory Service Manual that you can find right in the R50 section will have a nice diagram showing you the locations and the whole EVAP system in detail. Nissan did something stupid with the R50s and the EVAP system is not EXACTLY the same between any of the 96-99 model years. There ARE some interchangable parts. For example, in 97, the EVAP canister was mounted under the hood, but in 98, its behind the drivers rear wheel.... Good luck, and hope everything works out for ya bud....I've given up on trying to get rid of it...I actually think somethings wrong with my truck when the SES Light ISN'T on...LOL.

Ditto on that Pezzy. And Aaron - sorry that you had to deal with such hard times recently, if we had known about it, we definitely would have all jumped on the bandwagon and helped you out bro. It's good to have you back!

This is a serious issue requiring serious thought, and maybe a little common sense. Nobody here is asking for money. When we heard about Mr.Jims troubles, several people expressed concern for him and offered to help out in any way possible - generally in a nominal monetary gift to help offset the cost of getting his Pathy back on the road. As far as the 88 Gas Fund goes - Aaron never asked for handouts from anyone on here, again, this is just offerings. Think of it this way, if one of your co-workers, or neighbors was in a jam, you'd help them out. These two guys have created a community here for all of us, and without their hard work and countless hours spent dealing with all the little (and some not so little - remember a recent incident with a fellow named Flea?) issues that come from running a website and forum. Basically, what I'm saying is try to be a little bit more open-minded about this, and if you wish to offer criticism or concerns about the methods or whatever, try to be constructive in them - we can't gain anything or make any progress from posts like "This idea is stupid." It's OK if you think it's a stupid idea, but tell us why. Also, nobody gains from "I don't feel the need to contribute." posts. That's fine, but again, please explain why you feel this way as we can find out what other members are thinking and how they feel about the community. I know that I have learned a vast amount about my truck from this site, and even made several friends here. I would hate to see NPORA vanish from the web.

That is EXACTLY what happened to him Carri. His truck was FINE all day. Even after sitting for 3 hours and then driving over to Damons for dinner it was fine. Then the next morning, it started RIGHT up because the battery had plenty of charge because it had been running off the wet alternator the day before, but then that night the alternator froze up and crapped out on him. As for the guy who hydrolocked - he charged through the puddle and a huge splash of water went right into the snorkel tube, down into the intake and into the engine. Kaboom!

I've been through the same thing DJ. Though, in VA they don't hook up the OBD2 scanner if there isn't an SES. SES isn't an automatic fail either, they run the codes and if its something non-emissions related, they'll just be like, you've got such and such a code, might want to get that checked out. I just hook up my OBD2 reader while waiting in line and clear the codes....heheh. As far as finding the EVAP leak, I've spend about $1100 replacing the entire EVAP system on my truck to no avail, I still get the damn codes. Things I've replaced: EVAP canister EVAP Vent Control Valve EVAP Purge control Valve hoses and lines fuel tank fuel filler neck fuel filler hose gas cap fuel lines It's imposssible that it's still leaking unless there is a defective design someplace. I think that there is a problem with the sensors which trips the codes. DJ, do you smell gas above the drivers rear wheel when you have the code?

We could always do both. Have one person volunteer to accept the donations, and set up a paypal account for it, then transfer all the money into a bank account and deposit all the money orders/checks that were mailed and send one big check with a list of all the people who contributed to Mr. Jim.

First of all...I knew this place was great but damn, this thread *almost* brought a tear to my eye! It's great to see everyone banding together to help out a brother in need. That's just amazing. That's some serious cameraderie right there. You won't find that on a Jeep forum! That said, I would be more than happy to toss a few bucks NPORAs way to help out with the costs of hosting, bandwidth, updates and what not, and would definitely be willing to toss a few bucks Jim's way to offset the cost of his clutch. Maybe we could set up a Paypal account and then mail him a check for the whole donated amount?

I got... Alpine CDA-9855 head unit Alpine KCA-420i iPod controller Pneumatic chair for the garage (COOOOL!!!) Money to buy the regulator for my OBA Non Pathy Related stuff: Nice leather jacket and a few CDs that I'll probably never listen to.

A snorkel may or may not help you at all. In this case, it didnt help at all. The water wasn't even up to the airbox, but fried the alternator, and stereo amps. There was another case of a guy charging through fairly shallow water with a snorkel, and hydrolocked his motor.

I'd be more worried if it said it was an 89....

Hehehe...I've never really wondered that myself... What I have wondered is what the hell Nissan was smoking when they put it where they did...its so DAMN hard to get to.

Yeah...closed course with a cage and proper safety equipment...any other time you're not being cocky, you're being stupid. - Reformed street racer turned SCCA Road and Rallycross racer.

They do NOT work on our engines. They are simply a waste of money.