vengeful

Wow...those are nice! Great price, too! If your tires don't stick out like mine do, these would be perfect. I like having the extra width, because, I can use the hi-lift without having to have a door open, and they also protect my side panels from trees.

I've been running 40 lately. I usually keep it about 35 though. Although, I'm not running stock size tires either.

Ok, I'm done.

How often do you change your oil? What type of oil do you use? It sounds to me like it could very well be valve clatter. I haven't heard anything about this being a common issue, so I don't think it is. Hopefully with the two questions I have answered, we can help you a little more accurately.

I know you're trying to help and all B, but can we try to keep this on topic? I don't feel that you're lacking, and it would be a shame to see you resign. There could be use of one more active moderating body though. I take responsibility for the "asshaterizing" of Vsicks, and for that I apoligize. I was having a bad day, and he was starting to irritate the hell out of me. I should have walked away, but I didn't. *smack*

You have to realize Vsicks, that he was asking specifically about the North American market. We can't get the 6-speed, so it makes no difference whether it has one in Aussie Land or not. And sorry Vsicks, I do not devote my entire life to trolling on message boards looking for ways to try to put others down. I've got bigger fish to fry. Mm....fish fry...now where'd I put that hot sauce?

I took a strap wrench, and wrapped it around the pulley. That held it in place sufficiently for me to undo the retainer nut. And vsicks, what is wrong with you that you have to always be a bitch in someone's thread? Grow up, kiddo.

I think part of it was going in blind, as I didn't have my service manual, I was doing it at night, and I'd been drinking all day. Yes, I agree with Dean...4AWG wire is a great way to go. I've done it as well, and it actually made a bit of difference.

I installed the 125A alternator from a 2001 Quest into my R50...here's my writeup. Unfortunately I have no pictures available for this, as I had left my camera at school when I performed this. I'll try to be as detailed as possible. If you have any questions, you can IM me on AIM at Find4Path. If you run aftermarket stereo equipment or off-road lights, then you should definitely perform this mod. It is actually quite simple to do if you have a power drill and grinder. Air tools help A LOT! Parts Necessary: - 125A Quest Alternator (2000-2003) - 5/8" washers (total thickness about 1/4" Tools Necessary: - 12 mm Socket - 12 mm Box End Wrench - 14 mm Socket - 21 mm (Impact) Socket - Strap wrench or similar device to hold pulley in place while loosening/tightening. - 3/8" Drive Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Ratchet - 3/8" Drive Air-Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Impact Wrench - Power Drill - 17/32" Drill Bit - 4" Power Angle Grinder - Service Manual of some sort Other Recommended Items: - Mechanix Brand or similar Gloves - Duct Tape - Band-Aids - Battery/Alternator Testing Tool ($9 at Advance) - Channel Lock Pliars The first step to successful completion of this modification is to source a working Quest/Villager alternator. I found mine for $35 at a local junkyard. If you go this route, be sure you have it bench tested at 2 different places. Most reputable junkyards will take back a non-working alternator that they sold as working, if you have documentation that it is not performing properly from bench testing. Secondly, before I dive into the steps, you need to be certain that you are capable of performing this operation. It was the single most physically painful job I have ever performed while working on any of my cars, and I've pulled motors and complete drivetrains without the help of a lift. The alternator weighs upwards of 25-30lbs, so you need to be sure you can hold that weight steady for extended periods of time while attempting to line up the bolt holes. Ok, here we go. Steps: 1. Disconnect the battery ground. 2. Loosen the tension on the alternator belt by using the adjustment bolt for the idler pulley located to the right of the alternator. If you have access to air tools, you might want to use them for this step. The rotation on the adjustment bolt is opposite of what you would think. To loosen tension, "tighten" the bolt. This brings the idler/tensioner up and removes the tension in the belt. Once the belt is sufficiently loose, slide it off the pulley, while being careful not to damage it. The adjustment bolt is 12mm. 3. Disconnect all wires from the alternator. Be careful not to damage the plastic clip of the harness or the rubber boot on the output cable. You may need to spray PB on the ground wire screw to get it loose. I had to use Channel Lock Pliars to remove the screw, because my screw drivers stripped it. The nut holding the output wire on is 12mm. 4. Unbolt the bottom (long) bolt from the alternator housing. If you have access to air tools, you may want to use them for this step. The radiator hoses tend to get in the way, but you can push them off to the side while you unbolt it, however, be careful not to rip or puncture it. 5. Support the alternator from the side. 6. Unbolt the top bolt. The alternator will want to fall onto the crossmember and damage the pulley. If the pulley has the slightest knick in it, it can cause damage to your belt. 7. Once you get everything disconnected and unbolted, it is time to remove the alternator from the engine bay. However, I learned the hard way that this is easier said than done. If you rotate the alternator so the bolt tabs are closer to the motor, and pull it out pulley first through the gap by the battery, it'll wiggle out eventually. Don't be afriad to put some force on it, but be careful not to damage anything in the process. 8. Now remove the pulley from the Pathfinder Alternator. You'll have to chuck it somehow so it doesn't rotate when you go to loosen the nut holding it on. Do the same on the Quest alternator. The Pathfinder pulley has 5 ridges, the Quest only has 4, so it will not work with the Pathfinder belt. The nut from the Pathfinder alternator will not work on the Quest, and the Pathfinder pulley is narrower at the base than the Quest. Slide the Pathfinder pulley onto the shaft, and slide the 5/8" washers on as well. You'll need enough washers to completely cover the shaft up to where the threads begin, otherwise the pulley will be loose. Hand tighten the Quest nut, and chuck the pulley. Then torque it down. 9. The prep work is almost complete. However, the holes for the bolts on the Quest alternator are not large enough to accomodate the bolts on the Pathfinder. You will have to drill them out using a 17/32" drill bit. However, be sure you cover the open vents on the alternator with duct tape before grinding or drilling on the alternator to avoid metal shavings/chips from entering and potentially damaging your alternator. 10. Once you get the holes reamed out, you'll have to grind down the tabs slightly so the bolts can sufficiently pass through them and have enough threads to hold the alternator in place. 11. Installation is the same as removal, but the Quest alternator is heavier and slightly larger than the Pathfinder alt. Also, be sure you tighten the hell out of the output wire nut, otherwise you'll run into the problem I ran into. You might want to pad your palm before doing this because you'll need to put some serious torque on it to get it to connect properly. Be sure you do not reconnect your battery until EVERYTHING is complete and properly connected, tightened. Did you remember to screw in the ground wire? The Problems and Tips: I had failed to sufficiently tighten the nut on the output wire, and when I tried to start the truck, it would arc, and cause the failsafe to kill the electrical system. After a few seconds it would reset, and after numerous tries, I was ready to shoot something. Well, I realized that the nut wasn't as tight as it should be when I started tightening it with the battery connected (oh yeah, NEVER DO THAT), and it sparked like hell and shocked the living crap out of my arm. Have you ever had 14VDC shoot through a steel wrench into your arm? Yeah, it hurts. Also, when I had first swapped the pulleys, the Quest alternator rolled off my workbench onto the floor and bent the pulley. Be VERY VERY careful with the pulley as they are $76 from the dealer, and the dealer is the ONLY place that will sell you just the pulley. Be ready to have to use plenty of PB Oil if your truck has seen some life. Nissan likes to put all sorts of little sharp plastic clippies all over the engine bay in the most inopportune spots. I suggest you wear long sleeves and gloves to avoid painful, and often blood spilling injuries. I recieve more little cuts trying to get that damn alternator out than I have recieved in all my working on a car combined...well, except that time I kicked the windshield out of my VW Rabbit....but that's another story. Be extra careful when tightening down the output wire cable nut, as your wrench can easily slip off the nut and smash your hand firmly against the frame extension rail. I've got a nice black and red thumb and nail thanks to that one. Have plenty of light to work with. I suggest picking up a 500/1000W Work Light from Sears. They only run about $30-$40 and are absolutely invaluable for any garage or shadetree mechanic. Well, that's about it. If you have any questions feel free to IM me at Find4Path on AIM. Good luck with your swap.

Then why bother posting, asshat? Just like Ryan said. It's been done before. It's not that difficult to do and really improves the overall look of the truck. The key to it though, is to measure, measure, measure, and take your time. If it doesn't like up exactly right, it's going to look sloppy.

Wrong. There is no manual transmission available for the new R51 (05+) Pathfinders. http://www.nissanusa.com/content/0,,action...-126700,00.html

Center hole will be fine...your backspacing will be fine, too. The R50 wheels had less backspacing (i.e. stuck out from the hub more) than the WD21 legos.

Thats how mine was when I went from the 265s to 31s. Now with the 32s, it reads a little bit low, but oh well. It's an excuse to get out of a ticket!

Well B, Those were preliminary completion pictures. It has been brushed. There is no more sharpie on it, and the bar code is long gone!

Good story or not, it doesn't belong in this forum. General Forums or Off-Topic would have been a better decision.

Yes, 265/70/16s will fit, they are only 30.1" diameter. Your stock tires are a 29.2" diameter.. However, your speedometer will read 5.4% lower than it does now. That is to say that when your speedometer reads 60mph, you will really be travelling 63.2mph. 8 month's pregnant! Congratulations! Hey, I just noticed that this is my 2000th post...wow.

And what exactly does this have to do with 96-04 Pathfinders? :confused:

I installed the 125A alternator from a 2001 Quest into my R50...here's my writeup. Unfortunately I have no pictures available for this, as I had left my camera at school when I performed this. I'll try to be as detailed as possible. If you have any questions, you can IM me on AIM at Find4Path. If you run aftermarket stereo equipment or off-road lights, then you should definitely perform this mod. It is actually quite simple to do if you have a power drill and grinder. Air tools help A LOT! Parts Necessary: - 125A Quest Alternator (2000-2003) - 5/8" washers (total thickness about 1/4" Tools Necessary: - 12 mm Socket - 12 mm Box End Wrench - 14 mm Socket - 21 mm (Impact) Socket - Strap wrench or similar device to hold pulley in place while loosening/tightening. - 3/8" Drive Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Ratchet - 3/8" Drive Air-Ratchet - 1/2" Drive Impact Wrench - Power Drill - 17/32" Drill Bit - 4" Power Angle Grinder - Service Manual of some sort Other Recommended Items: - Mechanix Brand or similar Gloves - Duct Tape - Band-Aids - Battery/Alternator Testing Tool ($9 at Advance) - Channel Lock Pliars The first step to successful completion of this modification is to source a working Quest/Villager alternator. I found mine for $35 at a local junkyard. If you go this route, be sure you have it bench tested at 2 different places. Most reputable junkyards will take back a non-working alternator that they sold as working, if you have documentation that it is not performing properly from bench testing. Secondly, before I dive into the steps, you need to be certain that you are capable of performing this operation. It was the single most physically painful job I have ever performed while working on any of my cars, and I've pulled motors and complete drivetrains without the help of a lift. The alternator weighs upwards of 25-30lbs, so you need to be sure you can hold that weight steady for extended periods of time while attempting to line up the bolt holes. Ok, here we go. Steps: 1. Disconnect the battery ground. 2. Loosen the tension on the alternator belt by using the adjustment bolt for the idler pulley located to the right of the alternator. If you have access to air tools, you might want to use them for this step. The rotation on the adjustment bolt is opposite of what you would think. To loosen tension, "tighten" the bolt. This brings the idler/tensioner up and removes the tension in the belt. Once the belt is sufficiently loose, slide it off the pulley, while being careful not to damage it. The adjustment bolt is 12mm. 3. Disconnect all wires from the alternator. Be careful not to damage the plastic clip of the harness or the rubber boot on the output cable. You may need to spray PB on the ground wire screw to get it loose. I had to use Channel Lock Pliars to remove the screw, because my screw drivers stripped it. The nut holding the output wire on is 12mm. 4. Unbolt the bottom (long) bolt from the alternator housing. If you have access to air tools, you may want to use them for this step. The radiator hoses tend to get in the way, but you can push them off to the side while you unbolt it, however, be careful not to rip or puncture it. 5. Support the alternator from the side. 6. Unbolt the top bolt. The alternator will want to fall onto the crossmember and damage the pulley. If the pulley has the slightest knick in it, it can cause damage to your belt. 7. Once you get everything disconnected and unbolted, it is time to remove the alternator from the engine bay. However, I learned the hard way that this is easier said than done. If you rotate the alternator so the bolt tabs are closer to the motor, and pull it out pulley first through the gap by the battery, it'll wiggle out eventually. Don't be afriad to put some force on it, but be careful not to damage anything in the process. 8. Now remove the pulley from the Pathfinder Alternator. You'll have to chuck it somehow so it doesn't rotate when you go to loosen the nut holding it on. Do the same on the Quest alternator. The Pathfinder pulley has 5 ridges, the Quest only has 4, so it will not work with the Pathfinder belt. The nut from the Pathfinder alternator will not work on the Quest, and the Pathfinder pulley is narrower at the base than the Quest. Slide the Pathfinder pulley onto the shaft, and slide the 5/8" washers on as well. You'll need enough washers to completely cover the shaft up to where the threads begin, otherwise the pulley will be loose. Hand tighten the Quest nut, and chuck the pulley. Then torque it down. 9. The prep work is almost complete. However, the holes for the bolts on the Quest alternator are not large enough to accomodate the bolts on the Pathfinder. You will have to drill them out using a 17/32" drill bit. However, be sure you cover the open vents on the alternator with duct tape before grinding or drilling on the alternator to avoid metal shavings/chips from entering and potentially damaging your alternator. 10. Once you get the holes reamed out, you'll have to grind down the tabs slightly so the bolts can sufficiently pass through them and have enough threads to hold the alternator in place. 11. Installation is the same as removal, but the Quest alternator is heavier and slightly larger than the Pathfinder alt. Also, be sure you tighten the hell out of the output wire nut, otherwise you'll run into the problem I ran into. You might want to pad your palm before doing this because you'll need to put some serious torque on it to get it to connect properly. Be sure you do not reconnect your battery until EVERYTHING is complete and properly connected, tightened. Did you remember to screw in the ground wire? The Problems and Tips: I had failed to sufficiently tighten the nut on the output wire, and when I tried to start the truck, it would arc, and cause the failsafe to kill the electrical system. After a few seconds it would reset, and after numerous tries, I was ready to shoot something. Well, I realized that the nut wasn't as tight as it should be when I started tightening it with the battery connected (oh yeah, NEVER DO THAT), and it sparked like hell and shocked the living crap out of my arm. Have you ever had 14VDC shoot through a steel wrench into your arm? Yeah, it hurts. Also, when I had first swapped the pulleys, the Quest alternator rolled off my workbench onto the floor and bent the pulley. Be VERY VERY careful with the pulley as they are $76 from the dealer, and the dealer is the ONLY place that will sell you just the pulley. Be ready to have to use plenty of PB Oil if your truck has seen some life. Nissan likes to put all sorts of little sharp plastic clippies all over the engine bay in the most inopportune spots. I suggest you wear long sleeves and gloves to avoid painful, and often blood spilling injuries. I recieve more little cuts trying to get that damn alternator out than I have recieved in all my working on a car combined...well, except that time I kicked the windshield out of my VW Rabbit....but that's another story. Be extra careful when tightening down the output wire cable nut, as your wrench can easily slip off the nut and smash your hand firmly against the frame extension rail. I've got a nice black and red thumb and nail thanks to that one. Have plenty of light to work with. I suggest picking up a 500/1000W Work Light from Sears. They only run about $30-$40 and are absolutely invaluable for any garage or shadetree mechanic. Well, that's about it. If you have any questions feel free to IM me at Find4Path on AIM. Good luck with your swap.

I tried that first. There were several problems with that method. First, there is a gap between the headrest poles and the holes in the bar, which allows the bar to vibrate around, making your picture unstable. Secondly, the only way to effectively dampen that shock, is to have a split rubber hose in the holes, which the headrest posts will not fit with.

I was able to get all the parts at my local Home Depot 24-Hour SuperCenter, Lowe’s also carries the parts, but they were out of the tubing. For this mod you will need: - 3x ¼”x2 ½” Bolts - 1x ¼”x1 ½” Bolt (Or whatever size bolt your Camera Ball Mount takes, mine took a different size, but many take ¼”) - 3x ¼” Hex or Lock nuts - 7x ¼” Lock Washers - Several inches of ½” Plastic Hosing - 1x 1”x48” Aluminum Square Tubing (or Box Aluminum depending on what store) - 4x 1”x1” Plastic Square End Caps - Compact Camera Ball Head (You can get one from B&H Photo) or your local camera shop (a film store will not carry this item). - Electrical tape - You will also need a drill with various bits ( ¼”, 3/8”, ½” are all necessary), something to cut the aluminum with (a hacksaw or a rotary cutter will work fine), and something to clean up the cuts (I used a Dremel). 1. Cut the aluminum to the proper lengths (will vary from car to car, for a Pathfinder/QX4 the short piece is 11” and the long piece is 22”, an Integra takes 8” and 16”). It varies depending on the width of the seat, how far the headrest posts are apart and how much space there is between the seats. You want the camera to sit about halfway between the seats, just slightly to the passenger side. You can cut the lengths to suit. Tape the two pieces together using electrical tape. Mark the locations of the headrest post holes (will be on the wide side, and should be right in the center halfway on each piece of aluminum) and the holes for the ¼” bolts (should be on the narrow side (to hold the two pieces together). Also mark a place for a ¼” (or whatever size the ball mount takes) where you want the camera to sit on the long piece. 2. Drill the 3 ¼” holes with a ¼” drill bit, and the hole at the end (if ¼”). Bolt the two pieces together using the three 2 ½” long bolts and nuts. Use lock washers. If you have not already drilled the hole in the end, now is a good time to do it. 3. Drill the holes for the headrest now, assuming you were careful where you marked them that you will not be drilling through a bolt. If you are in danger of drilling through a bolt, shift the headrest one direction or the other. There should be only one bolt between the two posts, the other two bolts should be on the outside. Be VERY careful when drilling these holes as the bit has a tendency to bite into the aluminum, since you will be drilling between the two tubes. I strongly recommend that you start with a smaller bit (1/4” or smaller and drill all the way through and then step up slowly to the final ½” size (or whatever the diameter of your headrest posts, most are ½”). 4. Once you have drilled the holes, you should go back and clean up the holes to remove any excess aluminum that may still be stuck there. I used a Dremel with the round sanding block, however regular sand paper will work fine. 5. Take the rubber hose and cut it into 3 pieces slightly longer than 1”. Cut each piece up one side, and cut it so it makes a ½” semicircle. (Note: ½” hosing, when cut it half, makes smaller than a ½” semicircle, so it will not fill the hole fully. Home Depot does not sell this size hose in less than 10’ increments, so if you mess up, you’ll have plenty extra, don’t worry about overpaying its only $1.98.) 6. Next you’ll want to put the hoses into the holes and wrap the aluminum around the headrest loosely. Then bolt it all together. Screw on the ball mount. Mount your camera, and go get some kick ass footage! Note: You can get a SLIK ball mount online for less than $30. My Home Depot tab came out to be about $15 because I did not have the proper drill bits available, however, the bits added up to more than $5. If you have any questions, feel free to email me. You have just created an in-car camera mount for less than $40, if you shopped wisely.

The 05 Xterras do not have a supercharger option. HOWEVER. You CAN indeed get a Supercharged WD22 Xterra with a 5-speed manual transmission. It was a rare option offered only in 2002.

Well...currently we have 13+ wanting TJMs...I'm sure that if we had a design for a bumper, we could get a fab shop to fabricate it. That is, of course, if the TJM approach doesn't work. In response to your criticisms, there will be minor issues with almost any product. Notching can be perfect, otherwise price would be outrageous. But, I do agree about the tow points, but a small triangle off 1/4" can be easily milled and welded to the bumper. As for the wings, that is a problem with all TJM bumpers, not just the Pathy specific ones. They can be trimmmed back, and/or reinforced to prevent problems. But again, that's more time and money invested into the bumper.

Did I say once that I felt it wasn't? The difference between you and me, is that I'm actually working on solid contributions, whereas all you can muster is complaining and trash talking. :type:

It seems to me like you're just complaining more with the last two posts. I've got a suggestion for you. Since you feel the board is lacking so much, why don't you find every thread you find to be sub-par, and make a new one that you feel more fitting. Oh, and why am I up at 4:15 in the morning you ask? I'm compiling all my research over my years of Pathfinder ownership and am working on several R50 specific How-Tos. -study-

Well..V6...instead of complaining, why don't you try to do something about it? Maybe post up build pics and steps of your rig? Or some how-to's on things that haven't been covered yet.