Kingman

No code, but try taking a hard pick or scraper of some sort and cleaning the actual plug clip and prongs in there as well. Sometimes a small coating of corrosion can build up and really mess things up. I think it'd be worth a shot. I didn't think my MAF sensor had anything at all to do with my low idle until I replaced it and cleaned the clip and what not. Warm, mine idles at 700 in drive. When it's cold, it's around 850. The screw facing the sky and attached to the throttle linkage on the throttle body is the cold idle adjustment, the one facing west and sideways is the warm idle screw. Adjusting the cold idle screw when it's warm will do nothing.

Is your MAF sensor clean? On mine the idle would dip very low when it was cold and be sputtery until it was warmed up. After replacing it after it totally went out on me, the cold start idle is as perfect as it gets.

Torque range is around 3000-4500 RPM if I remember correctly. That's where mine pulls the hardest.

Perfectly normal. Redline is at 6500 RPM abouts for this engine, or I believe that's where it's electronically limited to. At 4k I am doing 67 mph, but I only have 3 speeds and it's an automatic. By "I usually shift mine around..." it sounds like you're talking about a manual transmission?

They are pretty much the same, just a few things were moved around when adapting it to be in a front wheel drive platform. The injection shouldn't be different, since the are both MPFI VG30E engines. But there were probably little things changed hereand there, and I also think that the Maxima engine is rated closer to 160hp instead of 153 but that's something to research. Now the VQ30DE in the 1995+ Maximas are twin cam and pack a serious punch with 190hp and 202ft/lbs of torque. But that's not what you were asking. I thought I'd just share that anyways.

And best yet, those numbers are a little flawed because the same car model can vary in MPG depending on what specific thing the manufacturer may have done. Like an '89-'90 Pathfinder, worth about the same but because the one year newer Pathfinder has a different injection system, you get more money out of the older one because it gets worse EPA mileage.

Exactly what he said, the whole thing is an absolute joke. There's also a stipulation about the vehicle's MPG numbers...

Yup, the only unaltered thing between the model years that carried over was the RE401A transmission.

My alternator has 207k on it and plenty of water driving and it still works fine. Like Simon said, mud is the real killer, most of the time. My buddy's Montero Sport has been through 2 alternators in a year because of water. Though I think that's just because it's a POS.

Allows the tires to conform to things better, and has more surface area in contact with the ground.

Who says leafs can't flex? My buddy's B2, it has a few more inches of flex than what's seen after he extended the brake line

180 degree, whatever brand. Try not to get the lowest end one, sometimes they are made of weaker metal and stick sooner. For the most part a thermostat is a thermostat. Make sure you get the gasket that goes along with it, and some gasket sealer.

That is for the AIV box, it recirculates exhaust gasses back into the engine to be reburned. Just another part of the emissions system. To answer your original question, yes you can take a cat from a big V8 and still be legal. Industrial trucks have the biggest, like an old Ford dump truck with the 460 or a Chevy 454. The cats are huge on those type of trucks. Since they're so big, the flow resistance is minimal but the turbulance isn't anywhere near as bad as you may think.

AWESOME! I've been looking into this fan for some time now, this is the icing on the cake. Thanks for posting this up! 2 badass threads in one night, you're on a roll man! I also like how your temperature gauge is painted.

Nissan didn't design any of the fuel injection system and related systems for the TBI, Bosch did. It's just been licensed for use under the Nissan name. I find the wiring for everything to be extremely cheesy and hard to decipher. Nissan should have definitely picked a better company.

Drive it till it drops

The wheels make those things look like grannymobiles.

And the Pacesetter's cross over pipe is useless, both that it's cross over hole is too small and the entire thing is poorly designed. The right bank (facing the truck) produces the venturi affect, while the left side (facing the truck) and cross over pipe do not. Since that's the point of headers, they are pretty much useless. If you run Pacesetters, it's best to run a true dual exhaust which does away with the cross over pipe and ensures the proper venturi affect actually happens.

It's illegal in all 50 states and a fairly large fine...

Bad MAF sensor. Not the wiring, connections, or the 2 heater wires themselves. Swapped it out and now it runs like a top! Thanks for all the ideas and replies!

Just because of where it's sold doesn't reflect on quality, unless it's a store brand name. If quality were to be affected by stores, then Wal Mart wouldn't sell BFGs, Goodyear MTs, Castrol, Pennzoil, Mobil1, etc etc.

Buy whatever to tide you over for the day, then replace them with Bosch or NGK ASAP. You don't want to run crappy plugs for very long.

I put Autolites in my truck and the gas mileage sucked and so did the power. I switched to NGK and it seemed to like them better.

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Is there a way you can take a picture of what you're referring to? Thinking about it, I think I could hear the injectors pulse when it goes psst(vroom), psst(vroom), psst(vroom). I talked to Tim again today, he talked to his Nissan mechanic friend and he said it sounds like it's being fed way too much air and the IACV might be suspect. Thoughts? Also, when slowing down and coasting slowly, when the RPMs hit about 2k the revs start bouncing from 1500-2000, just like it does in P or N. Then after like 5-10 seconds of that it quits as the truck continues to slow down.