Kingman

We'll never know.

There's a short case sitting in my fridge.

You should edit that to include the engines with the AUTOMATIC transmission that have the issues. There's also an oil consumption problem...

That looks really good!

My old one was an 86.5.

Not only that, but there's wheel hop when you hit a bump and on the freeway the front end bounces up and down when you hit a bump, and it can make it very unstable and you can lose control. In my old truck with a 100% dead driver's shock, if I hit a certain bump just right on the freeway my front end would bounce very hard for a long time and I could feel the other tire with more connection to the road pulling me a little bit. It was pretty freaky.

You're fine. A little slip up like that once in a great while won't hurt a thing.

You won't find an easier set of bushings to replace. The sway bar is just held on by a rod/long bolt, sleeve, washers, and rubber bushings. A 12mm or a 14mm deep socket and an equal size wrench or another socket is all you need to replace those. They just slide on and off. Take a good look at it, you'll figure it out.

There's no such thing as can't. With any automobile the possibilities are endless...

As soon as I get the money I'm buying a set of those steelies... And why does the tire-easy link come up in Russian?

That's weird, mine chatters when I let out the clutch too fast. There's like a split second chatter then it stops. It does it when it bogs down too low as well.

Not only is the bouncing annoying but it's extremely dangerous...

X2.

Why are y'all arguing over something this stupid? All Boston was ask a simple question and it turned into another one of these arguments...

Well la de da Adam. EDIT: No, the shocks take maybe an hour tops. 2 nuts per shock, swap in swap out. In all reality I wouldn't say it's quite that bad, my old truck had some UCA damage and a few tweaked IFS pieces which made things mis-align. It's definitely not worth replacing if they are in good shape, and as you can see mine were toast. Usually what happens when they get extremely worn is you'll start feeling a shaking in the wheel and see wheel hop over bumps, and the compression rod its self will bore out the hole through the frame and tear the bushing cups apart.

It took me 5 hours, tons of WD40, grease, hammers, wrenches, long and short pry bars, bottle jacks, sludge hammer, welder, bruise and bloody hands, bruised and bloody head, and smashed fingers just to replace mine. Not to scare you or anything...

I've heard good things about them. Also Skyjacker makes good shocks. Are your bushings worn through and/or does the steering wheel shake over bumps? If not and they look fine then I'd say there's no point yet. They are a royal bitch to replace.

Unless the mounts are different between the 2 and 4 doors, you do not need to remove the panhard bar. Rancho, Bilstein, Old Man Emu (OME), and Pro Comp are all good brand shocks.

I use the button all the time. It makes things really easy...unless you're an idiot like me and forget the truck is in gear and it lurches forwards into the B2 on jack stands with no front drive train under it and knocks it off the stands...

If you have no problems with your transmission and you're current on your fluid changes then I see absolutely 100% no point in rebuilding your transmission. The seal is blown, fix the seal. If the transmission starts slipping or shifting weird, then rebuild it. Until then I wouldn't bother wasting your money.

That's exactly what I was thinking. Sounds like that guy just wants money and is trying to sucker you into replacing the transmission for nothing.

The plunger on the starter might be defective and not properly engaging, so tapping it with a hammer may cause it to engage. If you're worried about dinging up the starter then put a small cloth over it where you beat on it. It works if you can manage to even get a cloth down there... I'd take that starter back and have whatever store you bought it from test it. If it's bad, cool you fixed the problem. If not, at least that's one thing ruled out.

When I installed mine I didn't bother with which hose was which because my cooler wasn't directional. It didn't matter which was which because the fluid still flowed through it and didn't cause any problems.

I believe it is round, as well as a 105k mile change interval.