Kingman

Reading vin numbers is posted all over the place.

Check the power wire to the distributor (not the coil wire) for frays and the slightest separation from the connectors.

Stay away from Duplicolor. I used it on an F250 bed with it sanded down completely and it still came up within a week of normal use.

That is one of the gayest things I have ever seen in my entire life!

I stuck a thick set of construction staples in the little slider dealy that makes the connection to the light on the tailgate mechanism, basically making it so that it was stuck closed and making the truck think the door was always closed. Exact same thing as disconnecting the wires.

Get a grill and buckets out of a Hardbody pickup and swap in come CIBIE (pronounced CBA) European spread headlights. Then you can swap in more powerful lamps and still run on the stock system.

You can just spice a new thermostat into a coolant line and run the wires along your fender well and into the firewall to the temperature gauge that would be mounted wherever you would want it to go.

I had a magnaflow hi-flow cat and a Flowmaster 40 series on mine as well and it sounded extremely good. It had a raspy and burly idle note and when you put your foot in it the tone was nice and deep and linear. I did 2.25" as well.

3/4 is way too high, that's when your engine should be running the coolest. Change the thermostat and have the radiator rodded and flushed to make sure it isn't clogged. The temperature guage normally sits between the 1/3 and 1/2 mark. Anything higher is a concern. Overheating a cat will cause it to start to break down and clog up, which begins to restrict your exhaust flow and hamper your power and fuel economy. Here is the recent thread covering some of what your issue is: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=23018&st=0

They are the same cooler, however a recall was issued and SOME were flushed out and SOME were bypassed with an aftermarket unit free of charge.

And we haven't seen pics of this before why?

I didn't put any grease on mine and my brakes never squeaked once.

http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...sbc350&st=0

My bad, looked over that... However defects do happen. Since cold starts run in open loop the engine requires more fuel by default, so it is possible that it's running rough because it's not getting the required amount of fuel. When it's warmed up and in closed loop, the fuel supply may just be sufficient enough to not cause any problems. Just my guess.

You're lucky you replaced that Fan/Alternator belt because it also drives the water pump. I had that snap on me doing 70 on the freeway and it was at red line within seconds. Change the O2 Sensor...

You got me there B. I wasn't thinking very clearly (vikadin) Just from my experience, flushing the fluid and installing an external cooler completely did away with the symptoms of my problems. On the way back from my ex's house, my transmission started shifting at the worst times, reverse took forever to engage then did with a BANG. I installed a cooler, flushed the fluid, and the problems all went away. That was nearly 5,000 miles ago and not a hiccup since. I would go straight ahead with installing an aftermarket unit and flushing, and even if that doesn't fix this transmission, it will save the next one from the same death.

The VG30I uses a Hitachi throttle body with 2 Bosch JL-tronic fuel injectors mounted on top.

The engine temperature doesn't have much at all to do with the transmission temperature as they are in separate coolers, and it's easy to overheat a transmission if the cooler clogs. The stock cooler is a known failure point, because it's a fin style and once it's clogged by debris it CANNOT be cleaned out and WILL destroy your transmission if left unattended to.

The stock cooler clogs up and deprives the transmission of fluid and so it has no way to dissipate the heat. The reverse brake clutch is the weakest of them all, so it burns out first. Almost always, no reverse signals the impending death of the transmission as a whole. Take it in and have the valve body flushed out, there's always the possibility that a particle is clogging a ball valve in there. I'd be willing to bet your cooler is clogged, and the only thing you can go about that is install an aftermarket unit and completely bypass the stock one. Or, it could be your linkage is messed up and not engaging reverse.

That hose is evil!

Yes, that's normal My driver's side front bolt hat 3 shims, the back 1. The passenger side front had 2 and the rear had 2. I guess it all depends on the minute little adjustments the suspension takes up after years of driving.

I have never once heard my hubs clunk or fail to engage in reverse, and I've engaged the 4wd in mud and goosed it a few times. I'm still getting a set of Warn hubs though.

Yes the idle raises a bit when certain things are on, AC, rear defrost, and brights. The idle usually dips a slight bit when the blower motor is on full, the normal headlights are on, and you're turning at full lock. None of those should ever cause a stall unless the idle is way too low for it to carry the tax load, like 300 RPM.

It affected it when my sensor went out and it was idling at 1700 in drive and 3000 in N! Like 94 said, timing is more probably but every little thing helps. Rule out as much as you can, and even if the MAF sensor isn't the problem at least the connections are clean. Bad timing can also make your engine run a little hotter as well.

I do that every time! I knew you didn't have a TBI lol. I keep spacing that...so yeah just ignore that... In N cold it's at 1100 and in drive it's usually 950-1100 when it's warm depending on it's mood.