Kingman

Our Dodge Dakota did the same thing, ended up being a stuck tumbler. Changed it out and all was well.

The Shell, Arco, and Chevron pumps all shut off at the same time. When my mother was manager of an Exxon gas station, every once in a while a state inspector would come around and test all the pumps and tell her and the owner if the pumps were within spec. I keep clicking the pump until I can see fuel at the inside nozzle flap. That way it's accurate every time.

Bad wiring to the fuel pump, maybe?

x2. Gas pumps are state mandated to shut off at specific tolerances to air pressure in the tank and when liquid fuel touches the tip of the nozzle. Malfunctioning aside at least, I had a Chevron pump not shut off and dump gas all over the place. The only difference between fill ups is how many times a person clicks the lever after it shuts off to squeeze that last little bit in their tank. Even then it's only a minute difference, and doesn't make a fraction of a percent's difference in the long run.

Yup.

As soon as I shift the lever into 4hi or 4lo the light comes on. When it's shifted into 2hi the light goes off.

This topic has been beaten to a pulp...

An '87 doesn't have an air box, just the cleaner on top of the throttle body (KA, Z24, or VG), completely different than an MPFI engine.

Fenders-yes Airbox-a TBI round filter won't work for an MPFI boxed filter and housing Doors-yes Hitch-dunno

Timing belts aren't a problem. It's normal maintenance...

If you're going to put a cold air intake on it, make sure it's in the form of a snorkel and not in the form of a hole cut in the fender The free-er flowing exhaust might boost your MPG by 1-3 mpg depending on how clogged up everything is now. Headers seem to be the one ting that really bring these engines to life. There's either a Pacesetter header, or a Doug Thorley header, and with that you will most likely get a little better low-end response from the engine. However, the bigger tires may take this benefit away and make you break even. Manual hubs won't improve any type of performance. Install European spec cams, clean out all the carbon build up around the cylinder heads and valley, and make sure you're using a good quality engine oil. Also check all the fluids in the drive train and replace them with good quality stuff.

Body lifts require some changing of the radiator hoses and fittings (usually), bumper relocation, and I think a steering shaft extension. I don't remember anyone saying anything about brake line problems with their lifts, but then again I don't remember too much

Got enough stuff?

Still got the chirp Oh well. I just keep my music up way too loud. I have to have it up loud to cover the sound of my exhaust anyways.

Body mounts are solid. Hatch glass doesn't move around at all. I hit a hard bump earlier and it's definitely a metal/metal or hard plastic/metal screech. Thanks for the input guys.

Yeah those look pretty decent. I'd give him $150-200 for all 5. If you get those, rim size depends on the size of the tire.

Looks like they were overinflated, seems like they're at 20%-35% from the picture on the right. The pic on the left looks good though.

I will go and do that then. Thanks!

Bad o2 sensor is my guess, along with bad coil or wires, bad EGR valve, or a vacuum leak (heat expansion)

Mine does the exact same thing. I try drying off all the plug wires and cap, and ignition coil. Still does it. I just deal with it and let whatever it is dry out, then it runs perfectly fine. Though one time I did suck my TBI air filter housing full of water and the filter was dripping like a wet rag, and I had a lake in my cleaner housing. Oops. Even after taking that off, still sputtered. I gave up trying to find the cause. Now I just know to expect it and keep on drivin.

Hmmm...

Never had one. I also rearranged all the wiring in the rear fenders as well and wrapped it all up in cloth, that's not it either.

I went through and tightened every thing I could possibly get my hands on just short of taking it down to the bare metal body and rebuilding it. I might have to do that though...

This thing has been taunting me for months now. I've taken the whole rear lift gate apart, took out most of the guts, screwed in the plastic trim cover, drove around with the hatch glass open, took the bumper off and drove around, taken off the tire carrier and drove around, and it's still there. It comes and goes, but when it is there it's a loud CHIRP SQEEAAK CHIRP CHIRP SQUEAK from the very back over bumps that make the whole truck shake. Then it suddenly goes away and stays away. Underneath there's a chink chink sound from the stabilizer bar that has bad bushings and rattles, but that's separate. Other than that, nothing looks like it's rubbing on anything at all. I can bang around and the sound doesn't appear. It seems that only hard bumps will make it squeak and chirp. I took out the rear trim panels and replaced the plastic tabs that were missing, no go. Still chirps. And to make things worse, any time I remember to try to record the sound when it does occur, it goes away! For the sake of my sanity does anyone have any idea what the hell is causing it?