Kingman

Hmmm. After reading this it reminds me of what mine did when I floored it from a stop. For a few seconds, I would feel/hear a rumbling noise in the floorboard like something was twisting and vibrating then it would go away. When I shifted into reverse it always kicked a little, same with drive. Never did figure that out...

The faster you get out of open loop and into closed loop the better. Open loop dumps a set amount of fuel into the engine to keep it running and when it's at idle the fuel is not completely burned and therefore causes carbon buildup and other not so good things. The main thing you want to wait for before driving is that the oil is circulated throughout the engine which only takes about 15 seconds. After that, drive it. Just don't rev it too high while it's still cold.

Yeah, way too high. 1200 max.

There is no check engine light for the TBI engines. You can manually adjust your fast (cold) idle by a screw facing the sky. However if nothing was messed with and it suddenly started idling high, it will be pointless to adjust your idle because it will not solve the problem but relieve the symptom. That's a maybe as well, because if a sensor is haywire you could adjust that screw all day long and the computer won't let it idle down. Your MAF sensor is still very suspect. Remove your MAF sensor and take a pick of some sort and clean off each contact and also do your best to clean the wiring clip. Corrosion can build up here and cause some pretty interesting idle issues... If you'd like, I can post a video and show you what a little bit of corrosion on those contacts can really do with your truck.

The last time I said I'm surprised my transmission is working this good and hasn't acted up, the next day it started messin with me.

Then your alternator is working properly

If it's under 12V then your alternator is shot. It should never read below 12.6V if I remember correctly. It's true that the voltage drops a little when you're idling, but below 12V is cause for concern.

Maybe it's taxing too much on the alternator and it's starting to give out. Just throwin something out there.

It kinda sounds like your torque converter is going in and out of lockup?

Awesome write up so far! I think that your bypass hose has been replaced before, probably when the last timing belt was put in. The hose clamps are not the standard Nissan clamps like I found on mine. I'm talking about the thin dual ring clamps that tend to cut hoses as they age, like mine did. It was a long time before I finally tracked that mysterious leak down...

Hey this was in Washington...Hmmm...

That is flat out wrong.

Rear brakes...

Calmini makes an LSD for the front end. http://purenissan.com/r200a_lsd.htm

Also check for a partially clogged catalytic converter. Welcome to the forum BTW.

Yup that'd be the one...

The Nissan RE4R01A automatic transmission was used from 1990-2004. 1986.5-1987 was the L3N71B and 1988-1989 used the L4N71B. EDIT: Forgot the "R"

My friend with one must have a different kind of Sony...because it goes beepbeep beep - beepbeep beep

Everyone I know that has a Sony deck complains of the horrid beeping that goes on when you turn the truck off. It's obnoxious!

Alpine and Pioneer are among the best decks out there IMO but some will say Kenwoods are great as well.

I forgot to mention I did cross the wiring clips for other injectors and that didn't make a difference. It's getting plenty of fuel to the injector rail, but the plug was dry and gapped correctly - it's not getting any fuel in to that cylinder. I didn't even think about checking the clip with a voltage meter

I knew that would come up. He gets all the chicks though, girls love lifted trucks...

I know this isn't a Pathfinder, but maybe a few people have some ideas. For the past week or so my buddy's '99 F150 4.6L has been running pretty rough with a check engine light (code is misfire - go figure ) and today I took the day to try and figure out what's wrong since he's not too mechanically inclined yet. Earlier he had someone replace the coil packs and that didn't help at all, it's still misfiring. I went through and pulled each plug wire off to see which one made a difference and the 3rd cylinder on the passenger side did not. I then pulled the fuel injector harness clip for that cylinder off and that made no difference either. The plug and wire both have spark...how do I know? I accidentally shocked myself and it threw me off the 38" tire I was standing on. The plugs and wires are all new. My first thought was a bad injector (160k, wouldn't be too far fetched) so we went ahead and replaced that since it wasn't expensive and it made sense. Well that didn't make any difference after resetting the computer, so I pulled the entire fuel rail off all of the injectors and had him crank it over and fuel squirts out all 4 ports with great pressure. So I hooked all 4 injectors up (but not in the block, with a towel underneath to catch all the fuel) and all but that one injector fired so I thought we got a bad injector from the store so I swapped them out and the problematic one wouldn't fire, but the new injector fired fine on a different port so it's not bad. Something is keeping that one injector from firing and I have absolutely no idea what kind of computer is on these rigs to make it do something like that. It didn't gradually get worse, it suddenly started running rough and smelled like gas out of the tail pipes. I'm hoping it's not a cut wire somewhere because that would be a total b!tch to trace down throughout the entire wiring harness. Any thoughts?

I would think that if the starter relay is bad the starter would not function at all. I would look into other things being the problem.

The torsion bars get weak and sag over time, cranking them or replacing them is your only solution. Some sag worse than others...