Kingman

Yeah that's always a possibility!

I did already, no change. Wiggling the wires didn't do anything either. Maybe the sensor its self just took a dump? It probably got wet when I took the truck for a swim...

I see what you mean now. Someone else here has probably tinkered with that before, they would know for sure. I wouldn't think it would make a difference, either. But who knows, it's a Pathfinder.

There's only 1 sensor anyways?

Well I'm sure you could relocate the sensor instead of removing it. I have no idea how far up or down the exhaust pipe you can move it and have the sensor still read accurately with flow and all that jazz. It must be before any catalytic converter though.

Oh Modes, not Codes. I figured if it was going to throw a code it would show up in the stored codes? Tomorrow before I start swapping parts I'll run through each mode. Thanks. EDIT: The idle quit bouncing up and down in N or P, now it just sits at 2k... I really hope I don't have to panic stop sometime soon while this problem is around, that wouldn't be good...

No no, the oxygen sensor controls the mixture of the fuel and air being injected into the engine.

It does sound different with no cat on there. Done it with plenty of trucks and it always comes out a little louder and throatier. Toyotas, Chevys, Fords, my truck, and a Cherokee. Power? Stock cat to no cat, probably a good amount. Performance cat to no cat? Probably an extremely minimal difference. Usually we just weld up flanges to the end of whatever length pipe (size of the rest of the exhaust) and bolt 'er on.

I did pull the plugs just in case I did suck water into it, they were fine. I didn't suck any water into it anyways. Codes, thanks but: The guy I got the transmission from said that I can come over to his place tomorrow and start swapping parts to find the one that's malfunctioning, then either work it off or go get one somewhere else. Saves me a lot of money!

Yes they do, I have no idea where it is though. I'm at my mom's house and all my books are at my dads. If it is a bad sensor, I'm a proud owner of $3 plus whatever change in my truck, so it'll have to wait. It stopped bouncing up and down though for the most part, now it just idles at 2000 rpm in park.

Edicer, the cables and everything are working smoothly. The wiring to the MAF sensor is solid as well, and the sensor its self is clean. Good thought! I just Seafoamed the engine, put the whole can in over a few runs. Man she was smokey! I drove around the neighborhood and it completely bat screened everything! But it didn't help at all with the problem... I ran the ECU codes again and it still came up no malfunction.

The transmission is the same RE401A, but I don't know if the wiring, harness, or ECUs are.

This morning when I started my truck up the engine immediately revved to 3000 rpm and held there. I revved the engine to redline a few times, and it still settled at 3k. In drive it went down to 1600 rpm, but I was very scared to drop it in gear with the engine revving that high, but surpisingly it went in smoothly. On the way to school I could let off the gas and it would keep at 45 mph consitantly. When I got to school I disconnected the battery and let it sit for a few, then connected it and started the truck. It revved up to 2000 rpm this time but then started bouncing between 1500 and 2000 rpm, up down up down up down very quickly. In drive it was at 1100 rpm but a solid idle. I unplugged a clip on the back of the throttle body and that kept the idle from bouncing up and down in park or neutral for a few minutes, then it started bouncing again. Then I manually turned the idle down with the screws but that didn't do a thing. So something electronic is definitely effing with it. I checked the codes and it's showing no malfunction. As some of you know, I did go through water yesterday and got some of my engine wet, but it ran perfectly fine yesterday. I patched up the rust hole in my fender, and I accidentally severed the distributor power wire (not the ignition coil wire, the electrical power wire) and I soldered it back together well and shrink wrapped it. It started right up and idled perfectly, and I drove around last night as well. So I'm thinking it's just a coincidence. Everything under the hood is connected well and dry. It starts up perfectly fine, no sputters but it does take a few cranks longer. NORMALLY it idles at 1100 in park, and 700 in drive when it's warm. I have a can of Seafoam I'm going to run through my intake, maybe that'll clear it up I made videos of what it's doing, so when I get home today I'll post them up. Thanks for any ideas!

Yeah! The light is flickering so it draws your attention to 4x4!

Do you have heat from the heater when it overheats? One of your hoses could be collapsing, cutting off all coolant circulation. If it's blowing out hot air like normal, never mind.

Is your air setting on recirculate or fresh air? If it's on fresh air the air being forced in and flowing through the vents is enough to feel it.

If the MPFIs have them, adjust the fast and warm idle screws

Yes, you can take the cover off without removing anything. I had to do this when I was replacing the bypass hose for the thermostat housing, which is directly behind the timing belt and cover. I think, as nismo said, it's somewhere around 4-6 bolts that hold it on. If I remember correctly, you'll want to remove the tensioner pulley for the AC pump, and that's 3 long bolts. My memory is probably backwards or mixed with something else since it's been a while, I'm sure more people will chime in.

Don't these things have a pickup screen on the end of the fuel pump to prevent such a thing? I've never taken mine out, but it would make sense...every fuel pump I've replaced had a screen at the end of it.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=vg30 [/threadjack]

VG30E 1984–1989 Nissan 300ZX/Nissan Fairlady Z 1984–1994 Nissan Maxima 1987–1988 Nissan 200SX SE 1990–1991 Infiniti M30/Nissan Leopard 1990–1995 Hardbody Truck 1990–1995 Nissan Pathfinder/Nissan Terrano 1992–1999 Nissan Gloria/Nissan Cedric (179 hp) 1992–1998 Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager

Built VQ35 in a Pathy...that would be sick

Turning 35s at that extreme of a CV angle? Sounds like a recipe for disaster.

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/1206690831.html http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/1207331048.html http://salem.craigslist.org/cto/1183674190.html